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Frigidaire FWT647GHS0

controller spin motor

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4 replies to this topic

#1 Dave Stocker

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Posted 15 October 2011 - 10:10 PM

Running through all the similiar questions leads me to believe the controller board is fried.
  • Timer is functioning
  • Door is locking and indicator light is showing this as well
  • Water will fill and drain
  • Tub will not spin or agitate
Pulled the back off. Looks like there has been some rodent issues but I haven't seen any chewed wires. I checked the motor for free movement, both it and the drum moved freely. Removed the belt. Tried powering the machine to see if motor would spin with absolutely no load. At this point noticed the fuse on the controller board and it was open. Replaced the fuse and it immediately popped. Disconnected motor and tried again. Popped immediately. Pretty much have come to the conclusion that the board is the issue. I pulled the board out of the machine to examine a lot closer to see if there was a board level problem caused by mice, and the board looks basically clean with a bit of corrosion on the heat sink and the metal of the transistors and holding screws. However, that being said, I did notice a that the capacitor C32 (200v 680 picof) dead centre of the controller board has some evidence of some scorching at the base of the capacitor.



I would appreciate some sage advice on this. I am confident in my ability to replace this capacitor with the proper part but would like to hear any suggestions.

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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 15 October 2011 - 10:39 PM

No, Do not replace the components, replace the whole board.
Scott Wolf

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 October 2011 - 11:27 PM

... C32 (200v 680 picof)
... some evidence of some scorching at the base of the capacitor.

C32 (200V 680 uF )
I can't see any "scorching" in the photo..
... maybe test C32 to see if it's shorted.
.

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#4 Dave Stocker

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:25 PM

I agree that changing the board is the best course of action. The scorching I referred to is visible on the white band close to the base of the capacitor. There is nothing even remotely close to cause that type of burning, and the capacitor was the only component that had the browning that could be a cause for the fault. Don't think I have a lot to lose at this point as the board is in Toronto and will cost me a little over $200 while the capacitor will run substantially less. What will probably be the case was the capacitor was just collateral damage and real culprit is elsewhere and by doing a single component swap will solve nothing.

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 October 2011 - 10:45 PM

... test C32 to see if it's shorted.


.

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