5 replies to this topic

[trifectagrasshopper]

Kitchenaid gas slide-in range, model # KGST300BWH1, installed in 1996. 120V. Became rental property August 1st. (it never had a problem while I lived there for the past 4 years) Don't know exactly what happened when the display stop working, but the renter said it was 'intermittent' for 2 weeks, then stopped displaying all together.
What I did so far:
- Validated power to the outlet and to unit. Burners still ignite.
- Opened up control panel area. Bimetal, part number 9751984, normally open, verified open with multi-meter. With power to unit, jumpered this bimetal, and fan unit came on. Nothing displayed on the control panel.
- In control panel area, thermodisc part number 341196, normally closed, verified closed with multimeter.
- Under cooktop area, by right rear burner, bimetal part number 9752006, normally closed, verified closed with multimeter.
- In rear chassis section, door lock switch, part number 9751763, was hooked up to normally open position, verified open with multimeter. Manually moved the lever, verified that it closed when the little white switch 'clicked'. For the heck of it, hooked up multimeter to the NC position and verified it was closed. This switch did have a little char on the connectors on the switch unit itself, and it had a bit of 'heated up' look to it. The wire connector connnecting to the switch was brown in color, as if it might have been overheated and was originally white in color. (just guessing on that comment)
- Back in the front control panel area, scrutinized, with the naked eye, all solder points on the board, part number 9751213 (label on the board. part number on parts list says 3190379, and repairclinic.com says both part of those part numbers are now replaced by 3191107) both sides, and did not detect any cracked solder points. No component on the board looked burned out, was loose, or seemed 'irregular' in any way.
- Inspected the connectors on the board, no rust, corrosion or loose wires.
- Inspected, removed and re-hooked up the ribbon cable, no signs of rust, corrosion or broken wires.
- Cleaned out the control panel area, evidence of some spillage over the last 15 years. It was not currently moist, but evidence of crap spilling into that area was present.

So, my question is, what do I do now? Can I conclude that I need to replace the oven control board?

After all this testing, and jiggling all wires and hooking up the gas, plugging it back in, the display still does not show anything, oven light not on, gas flows to burners and burners still ignite.

Thanks in advance.
- Trifecta, the new guy.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Can I conclude that I need to replace the oven control board?

... seems like it ..
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=504147
 

next time, disable the Self-Clean function

[trifectagrasshopper]

Thank you for the quick response Sinsei. I have read that the self clean function may cause numerous problems with this kitchenaid model and that Kitchenaid offers a retrofit kit to address this problem. The renter told me he did not run the self clean operation. (obivously I can't confirm) Are you saying that the self clean operation caused the board to go bad? Can you explain the actual root cause of the board failure with the information I provided? Also, would you be so kind as to explain how to disable the self-clean function please.

Thanks again.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... Are you saying that the self clean operation caused the board to go bad?
... Can you explain the actual root cause of the board failure with the information I provided?
... Also, would you be so kind as to explain how to disable the self-clean function please.

... can't say for sure
To disable Self-Clean function ... disconnect Lock Solenoid and/or Lock/Latch Switches

“My Rules”:
Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on ANY Oven.
Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.
Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more.
That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

[trifectagrasshopper]

Instructions received with the board 3191107, says if replacing a 3190379 with the new 3191107, to cut the #3 wire on the harness before attaching, otherwise the temperature reading will be inaccurate.

However, the board in the stove that I'm replacing is 9751213.

Do I still need to cut the #3 wire on the harness?

Thanks.

Young Trifecta

[trifectagrasshopper]

I installed the new oven control board, hooked it all back up, plugged it in, and it chirped to life! So that's a good thing. I did not cut any wire in the harness, per my question above.

However, some of the numbers on the keypad, mostly 1, 2 and 3 did not always activiate when pressed. I checked the end of the ribbon cable and cleaned it off with soft, dry rag and as far as I can tell it's intact.

I looked up the replacement part of the glass console, 9751887, and repairclinic.com says it's no longer available from the manufacturer.

Does anyone know if I can purchase the touch keypad part separately? Along with the gasket that seals the touchpad to the glass? Can this be removed from the glass console? Is there another way to troubleshoot/repair the touchpad assemby?

Thanks.

Trifecta