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Newly installed maytag tub bearing making loud metal grinding noise (Model LAT9356AAE)


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38 replies to this topic

#21 khakes

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Posted 19 October 2011 - 11:05 PM

Well, I have an update. I took everything apart tonight, cleaned the tub bearing off as suggested and put outer tub back on without anything else (as suggested by Senpai) and ran. Looks like it is not the bearing that I just replaced... the heavy grinding noise is coming somewhere from transmission or below. Here is a link to a video I took of the sound... of course could not get up to speed because the trans is not hooked to anything - could be dangerous. One thing I did is replace the belt which was loose (actually both pump and main belts)... I can't be certain but i'm pretty sure that the noise is worse since I did this... but only by a little bit. Regarding the last note by Ikk - how could water kill the brake package and in turn kill the spin bearing... isn't the spin bearing the one I just replaced....? Don't know much about the brake package... is this under the washer?....... anyway I have no idea what to try next... any help appreciated. Here is the link to the video that shows the extent of the grinding noise when turn on/off at spin cycle... note: no real noise during agitation that I recall.

Here is the video:

http://videomail.sha...19082074-13306/

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#22 gcw1

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 06:55 AM

Looking under machine the brake package is above the drive pulley. I would suspect some there at looking at the video.

#23 khakes

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 02:46 PM

From the video I posted, can anyone else suggest what part below the transmission is most likely causing the problem? Upper bearing, lower bearing, pads below tub support, break components, etc?? Water was leaking in the washer for about 2-4 months... didn't think it could get into the lower bearing (think it is called the spin bearing) but is it the most likely one needing replacing? Any thoughts?

#24 Scottthewolf

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Posted 20 October 2011 - 04:26 PM

I am not sure what's causing the noise, it could be a bad brake package, which is under the machine, attached to the transmission pulley.
Scott Wolf

#25 khakes

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 12:35 AM

certainly someone has experienced similar symptoms as I can imagine the problem would be common. I ordered the lower bearing even though the is one on the top of the brake as well, unfortunately I have to guess at this point because I don't want to install unnecessary parts. Wish there was a way to test which part is casing the problem... Ie put some oil on the lower bearing and see if noise dampens, etc. If anyone has any ideas I'd pay it forward for them... Wife is calming down a bit ...

#26 gcw1

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 08:19 AM

Without removing the drive pulley is there alot of movement at the transmission? If so then remove the drive pulley and pull the transmission out of the brake package and inspect the spline that fits into the brake housing for wear. If it looks good you will need to remove the brake package, it requires a special tool to remove. The bearing I suspect is the one on the top if the brake package. When removing the brake remember there is a 3/8 hex head bolt that has to be removed to allow the brake to be unscrewed from the base. Hope this helps.

#27 khakes

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Posted 21 October 2011 - 11:41 PM

have any ideas what problems I should be looking for in particular? Will I be able to spot a bad bearing?? Or bad brake causing what you see in the video I posted?

#28 khakes

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Posted 22 October 2011 - 10:10 AM

From the pics, it appears that there are two bearings under the transmission... an upper one and a lower one.
Which one is the spin bearing and which one is likely to be the one that needs to be replaced... the one above or the one below the brake??
Thanks in advance guys,
Ken

#29 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:22 AM

http://www.repaircli...mber=LAT9356AAE

most likely the bearing on top of the brake assembly.

the brake assembly can be very difficult to remove without the special wrench.
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http://homepage.mac....ppl.tech.29501/

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#30 khakes

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:47 PM

Any "tricks" to removing it to a guy that is determined.... and determined not to get hurt?
I've seen the tool that compresses the spring... looks like I could create that part in my garage.
However, once I have the spring compressed and one side of the brake appart and release
the spring pressure... how do I get the brake off (assume I have to rotate it somehow ?... is this
the wrench that you were speaking about? Do you have a picture of it or a name of the
tool? Any other methods I could use to remove it perhaps?
Thanks in advance

#31 kdog

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Posted 23 October 2011 - 11:51 PM

http://www.repaircli...l/038315/347232

 

00823672.jpg


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#32 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 04:36 AM

This brake doesn't come apart like the one you are describing. DO NOT TAKE OUT THE SCREWS, (I believe six or eight of them), ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY.

There is a locking clip with a 3/8" bolt that needs to be remove, at the top of the brake assembly, where you can see the threads.

Then the complete brake assembly will unscrew from the bottom of the support structure, counterclockwise.

I've used a punch and actually hammered against the heads of the 6 or 8 bolts on the bottom of the brake housing, (I really wouldn't recommend this procedure, not the best way at all).

Another method that wouldn't be so harsh on things would be to wedge a long flat bar across the bottom of the brake housing using the bolt heads to torque against.

While using either of the above methods also have someone try to turn the complete transmission from the top, if the brake holds good and tight, this will help screw the brake assembly out of the base housing.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 24 October 2011 - 04:39 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#33 kdog

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 06:06 PM

Furthermore, disassembling the Brake will not solve your issue - both of the bearings are independant of the Brake - just remove the Brake Package and reinstall it whole, there are no parts available for the inside anyway, if you require Brakework, you replace the assembly.


BRAKE
http://www.repaircli...mber=LAT9356AAE

 

01082262.jpg

UPPER BEARING
http://www.repaircli...mber=LAT9356AAE

 

00559730.jpg

LOWER BEARING
http://www.repaircli...mber=LAT9356AAE

 

00560026.jpg


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#34 khakes

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 08:42 PM

Attached is a picture of what I see.
I've removed the bolt as you mentioned and and I can begin to turn the brake assembly out.
However, can I actually turn off the brake assembly out WITHOUT using some kind of tool to compress a "spring" that some say is looming inside...... I don't want to kill myself !!
Something interesting as well... even though i've removed the little bolt out the bottom in order to get off the main pully, why can't I pull out the transmission? Do I have to
take off the brake before I can pull out the transmission???
Man, I owe someone some help... thanks in advance again.

#35 khakes

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 09:00 PM

Here is a fantastic video from RepairClinic (who also sells parts) that outlines how i'm going to attempt to replace the Radial Bearing (the upper one i've been trying to get at).
This is what they sent me... certainly hope it helps others - i'll buy my parts from these guys to support them !
Thanks to EVERYONE that has taken the time to help me... i'll be certain to pay it forward whenever I can.
Thanks guys !!!!!! Maybe i'll come back with an update once i've done the work.
Cheers, K

Don't go buying anything for now, just watch my videos. the noise could come from the radial bearing. When the washer leaks water, this bearing gets rusted and sounds like a helicopter.

http://washer-dryer-...tag-washers.htm

http://washer-dryer-...tag-washers.htm



#36 kdog

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Posted 24 October 2011 - 09:01 PM

Transmission is a whole new Ball Game - it comes out the top, but you don't need to remove it - if you have the Brake Package out, one bearing is on top of it between machine base and Brake; The other bearing is between the Brake and the Pulley
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#37 kdog

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Posted 25 October 2011 - 01:14 PM

Have you removed the Brake to inspect/verify the Bearing problem ?
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#38 khakes

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 11:07 AM

Hi Sensei,
We'll the job went fantastic, thanks to you and others that responded to this forum. If anyone wants me to post some pics I can but the brake came off just like you said. I did not need a special wrench, I used a pair of vice grips that I placed lightly on the brake with the claws sitting up against the tab(s) and then I used a hammer (of course after releasing the clip you mentioned). The brake was full of water and both bearings were absolutely shot (no oil in them b/c the leaking tub washed it all out) and the top one was not even turning at all... the bottom one was probably reuseable but I replaced it anyway. Thanks for the link on ReliableParts... go the parts, lower $20 and upper $18. This was actually a job that took me about 18 hours fiddleing around... looking back now I could do it in about 2 hours with parts. The washer is fantastic, smooth and quiet. I replaced the tub seal/bearing (tub parts) and the lower TWO bearings (one above the brake - larger one) and one below the brake (the one that sits on the pully).

Fantastic guys... i'll definately pay it forward.
Take care, and have a HAPPY HALLLOOOWEEEEEN !
Ken

#39 kdog

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Posted 26 October 2011 - 01:52 PM

Once you've used it awhile, if the brake was wet it may develop a squeak - you can remedy this by laying the machine down and squirting a few drops of turbine oil between the brake pieces (this is why you lay machine down) - it requies a bit of lube

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