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flaskmaster

Whirlpool Calypso Model 110.22066101 LD Error

17 posts in this topic

I had discovered this forum dealing with the LD error on my Calypso. I did read the thread that was linked earlier, but I don't believe that my error pertains to what was discussed. However, I am a computer geek, with little mechanical experience. OK, time to dive in:

I purchased the washer/dryer set from my father last year when he was moving for 100 bucks. Good deal. 2 or 3 weeks ago my wife through our bath mats in (yeah, I scolded her for it) and everything was fine up until today. I tossed in a load, heard the telltale hum of the motor run, 5 minutes later I come back, bam, Ld error. After trying several more times I read up on the error, "Long Drain."

So the first thing I disconnected the drain tube from the house drain, and tried to restart with the drain hose in the tub. Hit start, motors hum, I get about a minute of straight water into the tub. 30 seconds after, the amount of water slowly starts to slow, then altogether stop. 3 minutes or so later, I get the Ld error. After taking the machine outside, tipping it over, and gaining access to the bottom, I found the pump and the 2 hoses. I cleaned both hoses, and removed the motor cover. I did find some threads from the rug stuck in there, so I figured I was a genius and removed it all. The motor spins both ways pretty easily. So, leaving it outside, I put everything back together, hooked up my outside hose to the cold, started a normal load on "Tap Cold" and started it.

WOW was I surprised when I saw cold water SHOOTING out of the hot water inlet. Figuring it's a shared inlet, I went all MacGyver on the washer, and screwed on an outside hose sprayer to the hot side :) Go me. Anyway, I tried running a new load using Tap Cold setting, with the same results. Water being put in, drain being used for a minute or 2, motor humming, then Ld.

Oh, and the entire time, not a single drop of water hits my clothes. At this point, I figured there is something either clogging the hose that runs to the clothes, or something is wrong with some motor or something.

I'm stumped. It's getting dark, and I'm gonna leave it out there until tomorrow. I can't figure out how to open up the top of the washer, I see some clips, but they are nasty rusted and pretty hard to get it to move an inch.

If you need pictures or something, lemme know. I'll check back tonight or tomorrow. But thanks in advance :)

-Flask aka Adam

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Yup - guaranteed the hose that runs up behind the tub to spray the water into the tubring is gooked up - RubberBack mats are famous for this (wash $10, 6 year old mat = $250 washer repair to unclog) - those clips you see under the top are springs that can be depressed inward by a puttyknife then you'll see 4 screws along the top to remove front. Pay close attention to the large chamber within the tub as it clogs up as well, and the drain hose itself. If all else fails, you may need to replace the pump/motor which has been upgraded.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump-and-Motor/285990/1058894?modelNumber=110.22066101

 

00904446.jpg

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So, in order to reach those inlet hose(s), I have to remove both the top and front? And then pull them and clean? That's it?

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Since I can't edit, here we go: I opened the top, and checked out the inlet hose that runs from the valve assembly into the tub. Totally clean. What's next? taking out the valve assembly and check to see if that part is clogged? There is a filter on both the hot and cold inlets, and they had nothing, so I'm not sure why the valves would be clogged.

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Sorry for the 3rd reply, but I have an update.

After cleaning out all the tubes, I reassembled the machine for another test run. This time the washer filled, but filled from the bottom, which is different. As well as the machine did not stop filling, and water started to come out of a think plastic narrow "bag" I guess would be the best term, which I assume is a kind of overflow protector. I was unable to get to the diagnostic book because it's supposedly behind the front door, but I am unable to access due to one of the screws are so rusted it almost crumbled. So I'm searching for a diagnostic manual online.

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I found the diagnostic routine to manually start up the drain cycle. So it's now empty, and I'm on my 3rd day working on this.

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I'm on my 3rd day working on this.

So replace the motor-pump assembly and be done with it already!

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But I'm confused. I was able to have the drain motor pump all that water out using the diagnostic system. So why would I replace it? I'm confused.

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first things first,

if the Cold Water Valve doesn't work, replace it...

It may not be working OK,

OR it may "stick" at times, letting water IN, while the Washer is trying to Drain...

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first things first,

if the Cold Water Valve doesn't work, replace it...

It may not be working OK,

OR it may "stick" at times, letting water IN, while the Washer is trying to Drain...

I'm not trying to "debunk" any theory, please take no offense.

1-The cold water valve works, because it completely filled my tub, so much that it completely covered all clothes, but also that it started to overfill.

2-If it were the cold water valve, what would that have to do with it not stopping to fill? I have only had this washer for under a year, and isn't it kinda coincidental that I got the Ld error only 2 days after it refuses to stop? Plus, every wash before used to fill from the top, this was the first time it filled from the bottom.

3-I can't really see how the fill and drain are happening at the same time, given what I've seen. Unless you mean something else. I do see water coming out of the drain tube into my sidewalk, but it's barely stronger than a trickle. And it filled for almost 15 minutes before I shut it off manually.

I am going to replace one of the tubes that run from the pump to some type of "dump" area, with balls and everything. I gave up after the sun went down, and in the middle of the night, something started to eat the tube. It's the yellow tube you can see in this pic:

New Motor Pump Assembly Installed

Enough so it is unusable. Something chewed off both ends. I'm dead serious on this one. I can't find a store in town that can replace it (seriously, I called at least 5 different places) so I'll prolly end up replacing it with some type of small radiator hose with screw clamps.

But, that still doesn't resolve the origional problem. Why am I getting an "Ld" error when I'm getting water in, getting water out?

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If it is draining, but yet there's water coming IN,

then the water level won't change much, and the Controller thinks it's not draining.

If there's water coming IN, but yet no voltage at the Water Valve, then it's bad,

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Yep, Reg's theory makes sense - you already have the upgraded pump system (shown in pic) - One thing you need to clarify is this statement:

I do see water coming out of the drain tube into my sidewalk, but it's barely stronger than a trickle.

If you have the Drain Hose laying on the ground, and not hooked into a stand pipe at least 30 inches from the ground then that is your problem - water is syphoning from machine. Drain hose needs to be elevated

Also - that "dump area" is a big check valve system which also becomes clogged with debris from rubberback mats and stuff, and should also be cleaned out. If the check balls within it cannot seat, then you lose that water recirculation.

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After doing some rather techy reading, I found out that there is a tube that runs up to behind the main control panel, and I assume that is some type of overflow switch. After looking behind the control panel, I found that the tube came disconnected from the switch. So I reconnected it, hoping that would stop the filling problem. Nope, it still keeps filling and filling and filling, way above where it should be stopping. So I took some pics:

1028111516.jpg

1028111525.jpg

From those pics, you should be able to see what I'm seeing now. The tube runs down to the 2nd pic, which I also took the tube out and cleaned. I've seen on some other places that there should be 2 switches behind the control panel, one right next to the other. There's only 1 in this case. Oh, and yes on the first pic, that is a small radiator hose that I had rigged up.

If you look in the first pic, you see the check valve area, you can see how dark it is, and even a penny. I'm unsure how to get into it to clean it out, since it almost seems molded to the outer tub.

Oh, and the pic I posted yesterday wasn't of my machine, it was one that the Samurai Master posted awhile back.

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Take that thin clear tube off of the tub and blow into it while machine is filling, does it stop filling ?

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Take that thin clear tube off of the tub and blow into it while machine is filling, does it stop filling ?

It's 10:30 at night and 30 degrees out, so I'll try it tomorrow, and post the results.

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The tube is not an overflow. It connects to the water level switch in the console. When the machine fills, air pressure in the dome on side of the tub to which the hose connects signals when the proper water level is reached.

The original Calypso design had two pressure switches, separate hoses from the tub airdome running to them. One controlled the normal operating water level. The other was an overfill sensor. A subsequent redesign on the machine eliminated the overfill switch and the control board somehow monitors for overfilling via software.

The tub sump is accessible for cleaning only via the two pump hose ports ... kind of a flaw in the design.

There's no water inlet for the machine to fill from the bottom. Water input sources are via the detergent dispenser, the softener dispenser, the fresh water spray at upper left of the tub ring, and via the bleach dispenser which inputs into a nozzle toward the left side of the tub at approx 10 o'clock a few inches below the tub ring. More accurately, bleach is dispensed by running fresh water into it for a few moments then shutting off the flow which triggers a siphoning effect that drains the bleach via the nozzle.

The recirculation tube is *inside* the tub at the right rear, accessible by removing the tub ring. It fits into a channel molded into the tub and simply presses down onto a port sticking up from the sump chamber. A tab at top of the recirculation tube anchors it into a slot in the tub. Release the tab and pull the tube up to remove it for cleaning/examination.

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