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VitalBodies

My Path Has Lead Me To A Bosch WTMC3521UC, My Battle, To Install It.

26 posts in this topic

My Path Has Lead Me To A Bosch WTMC3521UC, My Battle, To Install It.

TANK:

When the tank is full

and the gas flows

fire can burn softly

TANK CONNECTION:

The tank is ready

the connection not

the valve is off

REGULATOR:

Propane would flow

the regulator is missing

pressure is high

HOSE:

Gases are willing

the hose is not

rubber or black iron

FLEX HOSE:

The flex hose is short

the dryer is still

back against the wall

THE DRYER:

Bosch is sound

WTMC3521UC has value

but no tumbling is heard

THE PROBLEM:

A tank holds gas

yet no regulator regulates

the clothe do not dry

THE PATH:

The google searches

no regulator found

only wisdom brings answer

WISDOM:

To subdue the weapon

ignorance must stop

harmony prevails

THE QUESTION:

Propane for dryer

regulator not known

what to use

http://www.bosch-hom...WTMC3521UC.html

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

My quest is of a friendly nature. I need only a small offering from a bushi, uruwashii, craftsman, tradesman, shi, or a samurai woman.

Although I have striven to follow the path of the Bushidō (the "way of the warrior), my clan had not used gases in there battles or buke.

I lay awake at night in silent meditation and contemplation - To run a propane dryer from a 5 gallon propane tank what regulator is needed?

No amount of beer, ginseng or green tea has set my mind at ease, the answer has not come...

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WTZ1280 LP kit provides 18,000 BTU/hr. (up to 7700’elevation) and 11”WC pressure to burner with 8”–14”WC inlet pressure.

(about $100)

from one of the Bosch Service Manuals:

Using WTZ1280 LP kit:

•Follow kit instructions carefully. These general guidelines don’t include the entire kit instructions.

•LP manifold pressure will be 11” wc after the kit is installed. Inlet pressure should be ~ 8” –14” wc.

•LP rating (up to 7700’ elevation) will be 18,000 BTU/hour after the kit has been installed.

•Turn off gas supply & unplug power cord.

•Remove rear panel & rear drum cover. Remove drum (for better access).

•Disconnect wire harness, gas pipe & 90º elbow fitting from gas valve.

:•After noting connections, disconnect wires to all parts, including gas valve, igniter, flame sensor, Hi-limit & NTC.

Be careful to not damage igniter.

•Remove burner, then remove burner ring from burner (as its not needed for LP).

•Remove natural gas valve and replace with LP gas valve. InstallLP rating plate and conversion labels.

•Check gas pressure at gas valve and check for leaks, then check flame quality.

•Keep natural gas valve & burner ring (with screws) in case dryeris converted back to natural gas.

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Thank you, thank you.

RegUS_PatOff: Your post implies that the dryer is natural gas and needs to be converted? I was given the impression that this is a propane dryer not a natural gas dryer, is there a way to confirm what it is?

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... I was given the impression that this is a propane dryer not a natural gas dryer, is there a way to confirm what it is?

there should be a label on the Gas Valve

You may have to check with your Propane supplier to see if a regulator is needed.

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It is written, "Your dryer must have the correct valve for the type of gas in your home. Valve information is located on the rating plate behind the door below the drum. If the rating plate information does not agree with the type of gas available,

contact your dealer or our customer service team (see page 21)".

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Bosch Rating Plate:

Bosch_1.jpg

The answer evades me, of what of these writings reveal the true inner nature?

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there should be a label on the Gas Valve

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if you notice on the Gas Valve and in the Parts pictures,

it mentions Reg 3.5"

That's the 3.5" under the Natural Gas info on your Oven Label posted above

01016164.jpg

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My valve label looked different than the one on the repair clinic, I had to use a mirror to see it and photograph it.

I read and reread your writings for clues. Some of the things that threw me off the middle path were the (online) images of the conversion kit, the ones I saw did not show a valve so I did not think it got replaced, just the ports. You wrote that it did though so it seemed like it did. A propane dealer said I needed a regulator that was 525,000 BTUs yet the dryer is only 18,000 BTUs? I would say with your help we effectively proved that this is a natural gas dryer in it's current state.

Bosch_Gas_Valve_640x360_0.jpg

Larger Version:

http://www.vitalbodies.net/site/images/stories/uploads/Bosch_Gas_Valve_1920x1080_0.jpg

Note: Bosch customer support said they do not ship propane dryers, only natural gas, but that you can convert them to propane.

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All of the Dryers that I know of are shipped initially set up for Nat. Gas. but are convertable to L.P. - The propane dealer is referring to the regulator on your "Bullet" that he refills, 525 KBtu is what the main tank can supply to fire all of your appliances which in turn have "step down" regulators of their own to provide a steady pressure. In the image that Reg posted, you can see on the sticker that the REG 3.5" - that is Nat. Gas. pressure, the sticker on your valve would say LP 11" if it has been changed over - usually this is done by a licensed individual and part of the conversion kit is an identifying sticker that is to be applied to the machine. The dual ratings on the appliance plate indicate that it is a convertable model. If you got that machine straight out of the box it is doubtful that it has been converted as there would have been some steps made to ensure it (paper trail)

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My label does say REG 3.5". The unit was purchased used so I was not sure about the specs or what it came with inside. The next step is to decide if this dryer should be converted or not to propane or just go with an electric dryer.

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may also depend on LP gas prices per BTU

and electric rates ...

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At 7 cents a kilowatt hour electricity is likely to win although I have not done the math.

Is there an energy efficient electric dryer that is recommended?

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All Electric Dryers are all the same efficiency

All Gas Dryers all all the same efficiency

In Milwaukee Wis.

10 cents /kwh

but electric heating is about 3x the cost of Natural Gas heating

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Natural gas is not an option here. I was not sure if there was new technology like "condensing" or something that raised the bar a little. Hard to imagine that drying clothes could not be made more efficient in one way or another.

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Clothesline - can't get much more efficient than that

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Here in the rain forest (80 inches a year average) we use a drying rack so we can move it in and out at a moments notice. But there are those times of year a dryer would nice as it can be cloudy for long periods of time. Even the drying rack can get moldy if one is not careful.

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The next worthy challenge is the dryer duct. Through the floor wooden is our option.

Thus:

Out the back of the dryer (south) > down > Towards the north > termination.

Ponder-able are the details. Pulling out the dryer, not using much if any flex duct, not taking up much room behind the dryer, ease of cleaning etc.

Seem like straight metal 4" duct for the north run and a louvered termination to keep birds and animals and drafts out are worth considering.

I have been wondering about what to have for a port in the floor?

A dryerbox might help as it might allow more room for a transition from south to down to north but that might require flex duct to allow the dryer to pull out.

The other idea was use a 45 degree corner (south and down) and a 45 degree corner (down and north) and move the washer out to get to the dryer duct to connect and disconnect to move the dryer.

Online I did not find much to create a finished (something other than a crudely cut hole) port through the floor. There is the dryerdock but everything else seemed to assume would terminate the second you made it through the wall or floor.

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Condensing dryers have much longer drying times and are more failure prone than vented dryers.

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The guy in that link doesn't know what he's talking about. Probably a salesman.

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