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Replace door seal on Subzero 532

13 posts in this topic

What steps are involved in replacing the door seal on a subzero 532 (side-by-side) - refrigerator door seal? Are tools needed or does it just pull out and get pressed in. There is no vacuum when the door shuts and there is moisture and/or frost on the middle back wall.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Only tools needed are a 1/4" nut driver and some patience....

make sure the defrost drain is clear to restore suction.

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Thanks for the reply!!

I don't see any nuts/screws holding in the door seal. Do you just pull the old seal off? The drain hose from the back wall to the pan at the bottom of the fridge is clear.

On what do you use the 1/4" nut driver?

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Peel back the inside edge of the gasket and you should see a thin metal retaining strip, held in place with what will seem like 1000 1/4" screws...

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Ouch!! So - how do install the new one - after removing the old one? Is there some trick to screwing back the retaining strip with the new gasket?

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Yeppers the trick is....wait for it...the aforementioned patience.

old strips must be reinserted in the groove on the new gasket...take yer time and work in a se@tion at a time while inserting a screw loosely here and there to keep it in place.

when you open the new gasket, it will be a wrinkled mess...give it a hot bath in the tub and then lay out flat to reform before reinstallation

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Anyone have any experience with Supco replacement door gaskets?

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I use heat guns, vasoline, and a hot bath in the kitchen sink.

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I use heat guns, vasoline, and a hot bath in the kitchen sink.

Yes, but what about the Door Seals ? :moondance::whistling:

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Last SubZero gasket I replaced required nothing but patience. It's surprisingly hard; you'll get the top right corner in and the bottom left corner will pop out. Then you'll get the bottom left one in and the top left one will come out. I ended up using the nut driver because my thumbs were getting tired.

For what it's worth, SubZero put an instruction sheet with that gasket that specified using WARM, not hot water, to soften the gaskets. If you use a hair dryer, they want it 12 to 18 inches away. Apparently the new ones are more sensitive; all my senior techs were telling me to put them into the bathtub with the hottest possible water.

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On S/Z gaskets I smooth out and lay new gasket face down on floor. Up north I would give them a hot bath but down here truck is rarely cold enough to need too. Since liners are molded to door I completely remove retaining strips and old gasket. Install strips in new gasket on floor then loosely install 6 screws (1 top 1 bottom and 2 each side). Finish shaping gasket and install screws. Use heat gun if needed.

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Almost forgot. If OP has frost/moisture on back wall and not around door there are more issues than gasket. Cold control or system problem.

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