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Lumpy

Kenmore 790.95682302 oven not heating

32 posts in this topic

Hi, I have a Kenmore oven that's about 7 years old. The oven stopped heating this week. Thinking that it might be the main element, I tested the broil functionality. My theory was that if broil worked, then it pointed to a bad element for the regular heating function. The broil didn't work. Neither did the "clean" circuit.

The stove still works fine.

So given this set of issues, where should I start? If neither the oven nor the broil works, do I still start by testing the elements?

post-5980-0-66651500-1319909063_thumb.jp

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Usually when both go out, it is an electrical problem as opposed to both elements being bad but not always. If neither works, I usually start by visually checking the block to see if there are any broken connections then I test votage going to the elements to find which leg is not receiving 110-120 vac then simply trace back to where the problem is...usually block or ecm.

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... The broil didn't work. Neither did the "clean" circuit.

Frigidaire Kenmore 790.95682302

have you used the Self-Clean lately ? :nono:

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Often it is the L2 in-out relay (DLB) on the control board that fails in these

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Control-Board/316207511/1036364?modelNumber=790.95682302

 

00652341.jpg



If the stove still works, does that rule out this part? Also, it seems like the controls for the oven do work (at least they light up when you click on them).


Frigidaire Kenmore 790.95682302
have you used the Self-Clean lately ? :nono:


We clean it on a regular basis. It was probably due for a cleaning but it wasn't crazy filthy.

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In case anybody was wondering, DLB stands for Double Line Break.

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“My Rules”:

Rule #1) Don't ever use Self-Clean on any Oven.

Rule #2) If you're thinking about using Self-Clean, see rule #1.

Self-Clean uses nearly 1000F for 3 hours or more. burnin.gif

That can wreak havoc on Electronic Controllers and Connections.

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If the stove still works, does that rule out this part? Also, it seems like the controls for the oven do work (at least they light up when you click on them).

No, still most likely a bad relay. You can still set the controls to bake, but the relay doesn't supply the power to the elements. There is no thermal fuse on this model.

Also, please note: The overlay is not included with the EOC as you can see in the above photo. You would be wise to order it as well. Part number depends on color.

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No, still most likely a bad relay. You can still set the controls to bake, but the relay doesn't supply the power to the elements. There is no thermal fuse on this model.

Also, please note: The overlay is not included with the EOC as you can see in the above photo. You would be wise to order it as well. Part number depends on color.

EOC?

It's a white range.

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EOC?

It's a white range.

Sorry, Electronic Oven Control = EOC

Edited by Chat_in_RI

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I never had to purchase a new overlay when replacing an EOC. They have all peeled off in good condition. I've heard they will even come off easier if you heat it a little with a hairdryer but haven't every had to do that.

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I agree. Never had a problem peeling one off the old or sticking one on a new module.

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Never? really? Just me then. It only happens when I don't have a replacement overlay handy. Bits and pieces of old overlay stuck around the edges of old control where grease and heat deteriated the plastic.

Edited by Chat_in_RI
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OK, I have done a bunch of testing and here are my results:

1. Tested both elements:

Upper element: 13.3 Ω

Lower element: 16 Ω

2. Tested power to each end of all the elements. I got ~123 V at all four element ends regardless of whether the oven was on Bake, Broil or Off. The way I tested was by setting my multimeter to V AC, putting the black lead on the neutral (white) wire coming from the wall cord, then putting the red lead on the end of each element, one at a time.

This is confusing to me. I thought one of these ends would be 0 V, which would show a faulty EOC. However, I also expected them to all be 0 V when the oven was off, and they are still showing 120 V.

So, wise senseis, where do I go from here???

Edited by Lumpy

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220v Oven Elements don't use Neutral.

You'd need to disconnect one terminal of each element and then measure to chassis (ground) to see which leg of the main power is missing.

L2 is usually always connected to one side of each Element.

The Controller connects the other side L1.

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L2 is usually always connected to one side of each Element.

The Controller connects the other side L1.

Some of the new ranges connect L2 to one side of both elements thru a DLB (Double Line Break) relay on the EOC board, (just as Kdog said in post#4). If this relay has failed or the solder connections on that relay have failed it would stop both bake and broil from working. Looking at the picture at RepairClinic this board uses the DLB relay, L2 IN - L2 OUT at lower right hand corner of board.

To test you could remove both of those wires from the control board and slide them together and put some electrical tape around them. Plug range back in and test - good chance you will find that it now works.

It's not hard to separate the electronic board from the plastic case and check the back/trace side of the circuit board for burnt solder joints at the relay legs and repair them if found to save the cost of replacing the board.

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... 123 V at all four element ends regardless of whether the oven was on Bake, Broil or Off.

sounds like the DLB Relay is working (or doesn't use one)

L2 does go into the Controller, but I don't physically see an actual Relay for L2

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See the closeup pic below = L2in and L2 out, betting that doesn't close - measure voltage between them with oven on and if you see 240v, order one up !

00658086.jpg

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See the closeup pic below = L2in and L2 out ...

saw it, but may just be for some voltage sensing ...

I don't see a DLB Relay ...

... 123 V at all four element ends regardless of whether the oven was on Bake, Broil or Off

sounds like whatever (DLB Relay or not) it's ON

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Looks like the Black one right beside the terminals, the 2 white colored relays above switch L1 to the elements - have seen those relays fail on numerous occasions, pretty much a slam-dunk !

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I have always replaced the overlay if the O.C.U. is replaced......... It will look nice for $ 35 bucks more.............More so if the overlay is greasy or starting to crack..... As previously mentioned, check for a bad solder connection on the board but more than likely, the relay has failed...

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220v Oven Elements don't use Neutral.

You'd need to disconnect one terminal of each element and then measure to chassis (ground) to see which leg of the main power is missing.

L2 is usually always connected to one side of each Element.

The Controller connects the other side L1.

OK, this was a big help. After disconnecting each end of the elements and taking measurements, I didn't have 120 V at the end of the elements that connect to the BROIL and BAKE connectors (upper right of the close-up photo posted by K Dog).

It's not hard to separate the electronic board from the plastic case and check the back/trace side of the circuit board for burnt solder joints at the relay legs and repair them if found to save the cost of replacing the board.

So do you think this board is repairable? Here are some photos:

control-board-1.jpg

control-board-2.jpg

Final question: if I simply replace the board, could there be something else wrong that would cause this to happen again?

Thanks for all your help!!!

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