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Kenmore 790.95682302 oven not heating


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31 replies to this topic

#21 kdog

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 07:53 PM

Looks like the Black one right beside the terminals, the 2 white colored relays above switch L1 to the elements - have seen those relays fail on numerous occasions, pretty much a slam-dunk !
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#22 certified tech group 51

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 11:47 PM

I have always replaced the overlay if the O.C.U. is replaced......... It will look nice for $ 35 bucks more.............More so if the overlay is greasy or starting to crack..... As previously mentioned, check for a bad solder connection on the board but more than likely, the relay has failed...

#23 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:26 AM

Part links:

Overlay

Oven Control Board

#24 Lumpy

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 08:04 PM

220v Oven Elements don't use Neutral.
You'd need to disconnect one terminal of each element and then measure to chassis (ground) to see which leg of the main power is missing.
L2 is usually always connected to one side of each Element.
The Controller connects the other side L1.


OK, this was a big help. After disconnecting each end of the elements and taking measurements, I didn't have 120 V at the end of the elements that connect to the BROIL and BAKE connectors (upper right of the close-up photo posted by K Dog).

It's not hard to separate the electronic board from the plastic case and check the back/trace side of the circuit board for burnt solder joints at the relay legs and repair them if found to save the cost of replacing the board.


So do you think this board is repairable? Here are some photos:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Final question: if I simply replace the board, could there be something else wrong that would cause this to happen again?

Thanks for all your help!!!

#25 kdog

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 10:35 PM

Often it is the L2 in-out relay (DLB) on the control board that fails in these

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#26 Lumpy

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 11:06 PM

OK, so what you're saying is just buy a new control board?

:thanks:

#27 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 11:24 PM

OK, so what you're saying is just buy a new control board?


Yes. Yours is FUBAR.

#28 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 07:20 AM

So do you think this board is repairable? Here are some photos:

Posted Image

Posted Image



Funny, that's the same thing the owner of this car asked....
Posted Image

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#29 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 01:23 PM

Funny, that's the same thing the owner of this car asked....
Posted Image


An dramatic yet succinct analogy, Brother Durham! :smokin:

#30 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 06:58 AM

Contrary to what the other three have said, I would say that would be most likely repairable.

The blacken spot on the spot with the white spot in the middle is just soot from the burned terminal on the board that was directly above it. Just clean it up with some electric motor spray cleaner.

To repair the burnt trace around the relay leg where the original problem is, clean the end of the relay leg good using a razor knife to clean to good clean metal, clean burnt area around it good.

Then get some thin gauge copper wire, (I use armature winding wire that I have removed from other electric motors which is coated with an insulation that needs to be scrapped off), wind an end of it around whats left of the relay leg and solder on.

Run the other end of the copper wire across the board to the good solid remaining trace material on the board and solder in place.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#31 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 08:10 AM

Contrary to what the other three have said, I would say that would be most likely repairable.



All you California guys are alike when it comes to boards and circuits.. When we see fubar....you see...



Posted Image

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 13 December 2011 - 12:33 PM.

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#32 Lumpy

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 10:15 PM

Thanks to everyone for all the help! I purchased the new control board (and used the old overlay). Our range is fully functional again. :)

I thought it was interesting that the original board was made in Mexico, and the new one was made in China.

Willie, I appreciate the advice. In the end, I needed to get this done so we could use our oven for the holidays!




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