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Ken. elite oasis wash. mdl.# 110.27032600 displays "oL" code even with smallest load.


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24 replies to this topic

#1 sledman9956

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Posted 30 October 2011 - 07:02 PM

Kenmore elite oasis washer won't start wash when water level reaches proper level in wash cycle.It starts to fill water level of the size of the load chosen, then just before agitation in wash cycle ,it changes to drain mode,with 4min. showing on timer, like the wash cycle has completed all the required agitation.then just before rinse cycle has started it displays a "oL" code.At this point we must manually rinse and spin to finish draining most of water with rinse& spin button.I thought that the leveling process might have to be done again better,however the last touch-up on leveling seemed as good or better than the first,and if it were a level problem, would the spin cycle work which is faster that the light agitation of the wash cycle?how can the "oL" code show on any sized load we program after failing to wash properly,then without shifting the wash load any,work after pressing the rinse&spin button.also the rinse cycle doesn't go on when pushing the same button,only the spin cycle starts.I'm perplexed.

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#2 kdog

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Posted 30 October 2011 - 08:57 PM

Run diagnostics (tech sheet on inside of front panel - spring clips on top panel, bag stuck on L.H. upper), see if it passes all of the function tests

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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 31 October 2011 - 12:39 PM

Outer tub isn't floating freely anymore. This is usually caused by using non-HE detergent and the residue gunks up the drive shaft and ruins the tub bearings. You'll need to replace the outer tub.

Some tips on that here: Tips for Removing a Stuck Tub in a Whirlpool Cabrio / Kenmore Oasis / Maytag Bravo Washer; OL error code

Part link ==> http://www.repaircli...0193886/2024974

#4 K-man

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Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:47 PM

the springs in the suspension rods get weak allowing the tub to bounce up and down. we have to carry 2 sets on vann at all times..

#5 sledman9956

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 03:04 PM

Thanks everybody for your comments.I decided to try to run the diagnostic test to see how everything responds before acquiescing to the fermented Grand masters recommendation.I started the auto test and I got as far as part way through C1,before pushing the (drain spin) button that I used to start the auto diagnostic test mode,before it finished filling since I thought it had enough water in it.It jumped into the rest of the diagnostic modes C2,3,&4 and seemed to agitate fine (even though the outer tub swung right and left inside the machine) during C5 mode, then finished all the rest of the codes.also when filling in C1 mode the basket seemed to spin slowly clockwise fine on the inside of the basket.However it seemed to jerk slightly on the outside of the tub ring,every 5 seconds after being weighted down with rising water.After running C0 to C9 the machine turns off, without displaying any fault codes. Also the basket& tub ring seemed to float freely inside the machine. I'm hoping that I don't need a outer tub .However I'm still perplexed . Two times I started the auto dia. test and let the test run by itself.Both times it quit part way into C1.If I pushed the same button I used to start the test, as it says in the directions, to advance through auto test steps before C1 completes filling the unit, then everything's runs o.k., including C5 agitation. What next my learned teachers? I could take a short video of the auto test cycle?I'll wait patiently.

Edited by sledman9956, 09 November 2011 - 03:28 PM.


#6 kdog

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Posted 09 November 2011 - 07:01 PM

Sounds as if there is an issue with the tub being "floated", remove the inner tub and inspect the hub, or remove items that may have gotten between tubs

Some tips on that here: Tips for Removing a Stuck Tub in a Whirlpool Cabrio / Kenmore Oasis / Maytag Bravo Washer; OL error code


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#7 sledman9956

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:13 PM

I hate to cry for help after just removing the lid up, and removing the tub ring,but I'm stuck looking for how to proceed to removing the wash plate.I can't seem to find the wash plate bolt cover, looking for a slot that meets with one of the wash plate fins?can't find a slot near any fins.I'm talking about step 4 onhttp://fixitnow.com/...lacement-guide/. I haven't even found out how to breakdown the agitator asembley.I assume it starts with the fabric softner cap, can't figure out what to do next.

Edited by sledman9956, 15 November 2011 - 06:55 PM.


#8 kdog

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 06:39 PM

Check out the step-by-step tutorial, compliments of your friendly neighborhood TRONICSMASTA :

http://www.applianto...ytag-bravos-he/

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#9 sledman9956

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 07:54 PM

thanks kdog.however this is the agitator,shaft.do you know how to remove it?

Edited by sledman9956, 15 November 2011 - 07:57 PM.


#10 sledman9956

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 07:59 PM

here is a pic

#11 kdog

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 10:22 PM

:eyefinger:

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#12 kdog

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Posted 15 November 2011 - 11:27 PM

Forgive me, i didn't realize I was reposting TronicsMasta's instructions - maybe this is what you seek ? :


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#13 sledman9956

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 06:18 PM

Yes Kdog that's what I need, I will break down tonight.It's that easy to remove the fabric dispenser?

Edited by sledman9956, 16 November 2011 - 06:22 PM.


#14 sledman9956

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 01:35 PM

good afternoon teachers.I have stopped working for now to explain what trouble I'm having with the agitator assembly.I have it all broke down after loosening the 7/16 bolt and taken off the upper assembly.I now have the lower assembly with the wash plate under it,and it seems that It is stuck or fastened on somehow(since I can't see any bolt access).Should the lower part come off easy,or with force,or is there a fastening somewhere I don't know about?thanks guys.

Edited by sledman9956, 17 November 2011 - 06:03 PM.


#15 sledman9956

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:07 PM

this is the print out on my agitate assembly.as you can see,part 6 is stuck, and part12 came off when I took the 7/16 bolt off.

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#16 kdog

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:20 PM

Likely a bit of corrosion on the shaft splines, spray some wd-40 into the hole and give it some time in there to soak - try and get under the bottom of agitator with a strap or belt and rock it back and forth

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#17 mark mac

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 07:59 PM

you need some new suspension rods they bend very easy

#18 sledman9956

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:09 AM

you need some new suspension rods they bend very easy

should I also replace the springs as you posted earlier?

#19 kdog

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 04:07 PM

Comes as a full buffet ah la instrucion video:

http://www.repaircli...0189077/1456067

 


01074102.jpg


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#20 sledman9956

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Posted 20 November 2011 - 04:16 PM

Good afternoon all .I followed KDOG's directions on pulling the lower part of the agitator off the spline. After two days of soaking the center hole with slick-50 spray. I pried the bottom of the agitator up enough to get a strap under the wash plate.I finally got it off,however I broke a section of the rim at the bottom of the washplate enough to let a 3 in hole approx. 1/2 in wide under the plate at the bottom of tub. Should I get a replacement for the washplate part of the agitator or the entire agitator, or could I repair the the existing hole(i'm not sure how,duct tape is out of question).Also I remember when going through the diagnostic list you recommended to me in your first post. That after I initiated the sequence every time I let the machine fill the tub to finish the C1 cycle, the tub would start to drop slightly as more water weight is slowly pumped in. As it filled you can see the tub dropping sometimes a inch at a time until it suddenly stopped filling and emptied the water draining everything and shutting down. This happened twice when i did the test without advancing the steps manually. Then I did the test with out letting the machine finish filling the tub all the way(advancing the test by pressing the same button I used to initiate the test,Drain&Spin) and three times the test preformed all functions starting with C2,3,4,5,6,7,8,&9 including the 15 sec. agitation cycle in C5.It seems to me that whatever is making the cycle, drain and flash 'OL' in the regular cycle,is the same thing that makes in drain and bail out of the diagnostic test when it fills to a certain level , in the C1 mode. Do you think that I should replace the springs&rods first and see if that is what makes the drain and "OL" light come on, setting it off by making the tub seem overloaded?Or continue with dismantling the outertub to see if there's a issue with the outertub not floating properly? Thanks guy's for hanging in there with me and being patient.




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