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LG WM0642HW TROMM washer FE error

LG washer

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17 replies to this topic

#1 masacco

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 10:43 AM

Getting FE error on LG WM0642HW TROMM washer. A repairman tested the machine, but he did not know anything about LG washers. He was able to call an LG tech on the phone and get some advice. The FE error occurs at different points when we use a pre-wash cycle (not just during pre-wash). The tub overfills and we have to reset the machine and not use the pre-wash cycle. The LG tech said it could be (a) faulty fill switch (p/n 6600FA1704X) and/or (B) faulty main circuit board (p/n 6871ER1085C), but he did not have parts with him.
I ordered and replaced the fill switch, but it did not help. Now I want to replace the main circuit board, and I need some advice on how to separate the main circuit board from the display/control circuit board. There are 3 small plastic tabs that hold the display/control circuit board against the main circuit board. It looks like those tabs will break if I try to bend them flat to free the display/control circuit board. And I was unable to bend the side of the main control board to pry loose the display/control circuit board. I really don't want to break the original main circuit board. How can I separate the display/control circuit board from the main one?
Also, when I opened the top control panel of the washer, I noticed that a wire connection on one of the water inlet values seemed to be upside down. Specifically, all of the other wire connections had the smooth side of the wire connector facing up, and the double wire side plugged into the side of the inlet value that had the 120v label on it. This one had the 'rough' side of the wire connector facing up and the single wire plugged into the side of the inlet valve with the 120v label on it. I guessed that this could not be correct, so I plugged it in to be oriented consistently with all the others. This didn't fix the problem eihter. But I don't know if some part could have been damaged while it was misconnected. Do you think this could have damaged something?
I greatly appreciate any assistance you could offer.
Mark

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#2 kdog

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Posted 06 November 2011 - 07:34 PM

Is this the switch you replaced ??  Part number: AP4445151

Part number: AP4445151

It has a pressure tube attached to the lower part of the tub, this tube must be free of holes (air leaks) and clear from end to end including the point where it attaches to tub or Sump hose. Another possibility is that one of the valves within the "nest" of valves in the cold assembly have failed mechanically and is allowing water to enter when it shouldn't. 

 

Part number: AP4441122

Part number: AP4441122


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#3 john63

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 12:54 AM

Test the WATER VALVES.

Open the DETERGENT DISPENSER cover to observe water flow

Press & hold the SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons.

Then press the POWER button (release all 3 buttons)

Wait for the door to lock (single click sound)

At one second intervals---press the START/PAUSE button 4 times (PreWash)---Cold Water Valve

Press START/PAUSE a 5th time (Main Wash)---Cold Water Valve

Press a 6th time---Hot Water Valve opens

Press a 7th time (Fabric Softener)---Cold Water Valve

Press START/PAUSE an 8th time (Bleach)---Cold Water Valve

If at any time water continues to enter the through the DETERGENT DISPENSER---when it should NOT---replace that valve.

It may be necessary to repeat this test mode again to find which water valve is failing (stuck on) intermittently.

To re-start a TEST MODE again---"turn off" the washer and "turn back on" again---then repeat above steps.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 masacco

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 05:09 PM

Thanks to both of you that responded. I did replace the fill switch (not exactly the same part you showed, because that one looks like it is for a different washer). I did remove the hose and blow through it to make sure it was not clogged. It was not leaking either. I suppose the replacement fill switch could have been bad? I was also able to finally replace the main circuit board (patiently removed the control board without breaking anything). When I put it all back together again, it had exactly the same problem :(. I ran through the test cycle 3 times and all 3 times each water value turned on and off; nothing stuck. I suspect it still has something to do with the fill switch. I don't know what else to do at this point, other than junk this thing and see if they still make a cheap, top load, mechanical (non-digitial) washer like my previous one that lasted at least 20 years! Anyone have any other advice before I do so?

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 05:28 PM

... I did replace the fill switch (not exactly the same part you showed,

... what part number did you install ?
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#6 john63

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 08:29 PM

Start a wash cycle (select NORMAL wash).

After water begins to enter the tub---press both---the SPIN & SOIL LEVEL buttons.

Observe the numbers on the Control Panel Display.

When (if) the washer stops filling---note the number displayed.

This is from the WATER LEVEL SENSOR---the lower the number displayed---indicates the amount of water entering the tub (amount).

Report back.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#7 masacco

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 04:38 PM

Thanks again for the responses. You can find the part number for the fill switch I replaced at the original post of this thread. It definitely matched the old one. Today we did four or five loads with cold water, normal cycle (no pre-wash, no extra rinse) and they worked fine. Then we did one that seemed to work, but the clothes were left pretty wet. Then we did one with warm/cold, normal cycle (no pre-wash, no extra rinse) and it got the FE error. I ran through the tests of the inlet valves as directed above and through several tests, NO water came on at all, even though the water valves were open (maybe because there were already soaking load of clothes in the machine?). Then I let it sit for a few minutes and tried the inlet value test again. It successfully ran all inlet valve tests 3 times in a row. So I tried a new small load, warm/cold, no pre-wash, no extra rinse. It is hard to describe what it did:
- Water initially filled via cold and pre-wash valves, pre-wash valve kept letting water in and appeared to be stuck. The machine just kept filling through the pre-wash valve, reaching a level of around 220, and then you could hear the pump take water out until around level 250, and the process kept repeating until eventually the pre-wash valve stopped letting water in and the machine then pumped the water out. At no time did the machine tumble the clothes to wash them.
- Then it spun the clothes, and starting what appeared to be a wash cycle (although by now all the detergent surely had been rinsed out). During this part of the cycle, water continuously entered through the bleach inlet valve (up to again a level of around 220). Clothes were tumbed during this cycle.
- After spinning again, it started the rinse cycles. The first rinse cycle started letting water in thru pre-wash and quickly switched to cold main. During first rinse cycle, water came in continuousely via pre-wash valve (even while spinning out after the first rinse) and kept a steady level of 250-255 (even while spinning the clothes between first and second rinse).
- During second rinse cycle, water came in alternately via softener and main (cold) valves to about 237, and then tumbled the clothes.
- During final rinse cycle, water came in continously via the pre-wash valve, even when the clothes were spinning pretty rapidly. This continued on right through the entire spin cycle, even after the machine completed the load and sounded it happy little "I'm finished" chimes and the door unlocked. Water kept flowing until I shut off the main water valve. And when I re-open that water value, water no longer flows in (lack of water pressure allows the value to shut?). This might explain why the previous load ended with the clothes so wet.
- No FE this time. Machine seems to have a mind of its own and behave differently/unpredictably after successfully running several loads.
Is it normal to use the pre-wash inlet valve so much?
In my original post I questioned whether I had the inlet valves wired properly, but it seems like it must be since it can pass the tests, right? I suppose the inlet valves could have gotten damaged at some point while it was improperly wired? Do you think the next step would be to replace the entire inlet value assembly? I can attach a photo of the inlet value wiring if you would like to verify.
Thanks a lot, I really appreciate the help.
Mark

#8 john63

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:15 PM

Failed COLD WATER VALVE ASSY.

Since the HOT WATER VALVE is not prohibitively expensive---replace 'em both.

Part number: AP4441122

Part number: AP4441122

 

Part number: AP4441935

Part number: AP4441935


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 kdog

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:54 PM

Electrical values will not show mechanical failure - a spring in the valve is broken, or the diaphram does not seat properly to stop the flow of water - simple replacement (unless a Dryer is installed on top).
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#10 masacco

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 09:04 PM

Thanks again. I ordered the inlet water valve assembly and it will be here in a day or two. One thing I want to make sure of is that I wire is properly. I didn't get a definitive answer on my orginal post about that. I could not figure out how to attach a photo, but perhaps all i need is for someone to tell me how to distinguish terminal 1 and terminal 2 on each inlet valve. The wiring diagram doesn't seem to do that. Plz check my original post to see if you can make heads or tails of it. Or attaching a photo would be super. Thanks again for all the help.
Mark

#11 Comstock_Services

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 09:17 PM

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say that it shouldn't matter which wire is connected to which side of the valve. If you look at the other solenoids, in the machine, there will be 2 wires, one is the line in and the other is the neutral. The neutral wire will be a different color than the line wire, as long as you put the neutral wire on the same side, on both of the cold water valve solenoids, then you should be fine. when I dont know how a connector hooks up, I simply put the terminals with the open end up, in most cases I have found this to be correct.

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#12 john63

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 10:23 PM

Comstock is correct.

In other words---if I pull one of the PLUGS from any water valve and turn it over/upside down and re-attach the plug---the valve will function normally.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#13 masacco

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:14 PM

Many many thanks. Replacing the water inlet valves fixed the problem. My wife is very happy to have our washer working again. Is there any way I can 'repay' kdog and john63 for their help?
Mark

#14 john63

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:29 PM

My vote is to donate to the Samurai---helps to keep this site going.

An asset for both servicers as well as DIYers.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 kdog

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 11:44 PM

I concur with John

"Action is our Reward"
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#16 masacco

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 10:47 AM

Gentlemen: This is Mark's wife, Lisa. Can't thank you enough. Real hassle not having a functioning washer even after we did the LG service recommended repairs. Thanks for taking the time to walk Mark through the 'real' repair. Just donated to the site. Happy Holidays.

#17 john63

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 12:54 PM

<<<Gentlemen: This is Mark's wife, Lisa. Can't thank you enough.>>>

*********************

Your welcome!

*********************

<<<Just donated to the site. Happy Holidays.>>>

*********************

:thanks:
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 09:20 AM

Lisa and Mark, mucho domos for your generous love-offering to my flavorite charity which actually goes to help pay the considerable hosting expenses for keeping this site running! :thanks: :thumbsup: :dazzler: :rocker: :samurai:

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