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Maytag Mdb7100awb not drying dishes


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22 replies to this topic

#1 Green Lantern

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:18 PM

My maytag dishwasher that is about 10 years old is having problems getting the dishes dry. Must towel dry everything.
I checked continuity on the heating element at it is good. 16 ohms.
There does not appear to be as much steam or vapor coming from the front of the dishwasher as usual.
My wife says that when she normally opens the dishwasher during that step the vapor is very hott.
It does not appear to be overly hot. We have also checked and added jet dry but no difference.

What else do I need to look at?

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#2 Scottthewolf

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:29 PM

The vent door may be bad. Possibly a bad wax motor.
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#3 Green Lantern

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:43 PM

What should the vent door look like from the inside if I open the door? I can see some vapor escaping to outside the door but not as much as normal.

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:51 PM

check the Hi-Limit Thermostat # 16

Posted Image
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#5 Green Lantern

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:51 AM

I just checked the hi limit thermostat this morning. There is continuity. Should there be when it is at room temperature ???

I will look at the vent door tonight. Any suggestions on this?

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 10:47 AM

... Should there be when it is at room temperature ???

... yes, but if it's opening too soon,
(lower temperature than designed) .. ? ?
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#7 Green Lantern

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:34 PM

Is there an easy way to check for this opening too soon?

Is it probably the vent door or the hi-limit?

#8 jumptrout

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:39 PM

Put your amp meter on a heater wire and run the DW. When the heater comes on you will see a significant amp draw. Time how long it stays on and how long off throughout the cycle.

Edited by jumptrout, 08 November 2011 - 12:39 PM.


#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 November 2011 - 02:30 PM


Put your amp meter on a heater wire and run the DW.

image_7104.jpg
while also monitoring the Water temperature
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#10 Green Lantern

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 10:08 PM

I tried using the amp probe tonight that i finally remembered to borrow from work.
I clamped around one of the leads going to the heating element. (I tried the other lead also)

I never saw a amperage reading on the meter.
The washer showed 39 (Minutes) on the washer and a light showing heating delay. This lasted for about 15 to 20 minutes.
It then jumped to 42 (minutes) and finished the cycle, but I never saw a amperage reading during the heating delay or any time during the cycle.

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 10:22 PM

Posted Image
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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

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#12 Green Lantern

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 10:25 PM

Do you think it is the thermostat?

#13 Green Lantern

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 07:43 AM

How do you replace this limit thermostat?
Steps?

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 05 December 2011 - 08:30 AM

Cut the circuit breaker to the dishwasher.

Remove the front kick panels down at the bottom.

Use the parts diagram GMF Reg posted to located the hi-limit thermostat.

Remove one wire from the thermostat, doesn't matter which.

Use your meter to test continuity across the thermostat. If it reads open, it's bad. Remove the retaining screw to replace. Part link ==> High Limit Thermostat


It's dark and cramped under there-- that's goes with the territory when working on dishwashers. Use a good strong flashlight to properly illuminate your work area or you'll never figure out what's going on.

#15 Green Lantern

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 07:10 PM

Ok. I tried a new high limit thermostat but no luck.
I took the above diagram and check continuity through the heating circuit.
If I start at the orange terminal on the circuit board with one lead an put the other lead at each point from limit thermostat to heating element, I start losing the signal when I get on the opposite side of the heating element.

The continuity reading on the meter never goes to 0(zero) when I check continuity across the heating element. It is more like 15. Not sure of the units on this continuity reading but it does not go to zero. The ohms across the heating element is 18.

Should I see continuity from the orange wire on the circuit board to the white wire on the circuit board through the heating element and thermostat.

I almost think there is a partial break in the heating element but not complete. Is this possible?

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 10:56 PM

... continuity across the heating element. It is more like 15.
... I almost think there is a partial break in the heating element but not complete. Is this possible?

1) 15 is good
2) no
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#17 Green Lantern

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:24 PM

Ok. If it is not the heating element or high limit thermo then what is next?

Door switch?

#18 Green Lantern

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:03 PM

Or maybe circuit board. This is probably the cost of a new dishwasher.

#19 kdog

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 07:05 PM

If it were bad, the motor would not run either, if you have no voltage to element when required, it must be the board.(or a broken wire between)

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#20 Green Lantern

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Posted 10 December 2011 - 10:39 AM

Is the Omron G5LE-1A-ACD relay that is located on the board control the heating?
Is it worth replacing this item for couple dollars instead of $200 for new board?




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