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samsung dv337aeg/xaa sensor problem?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 dfphoto

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Posted 11 November 2011 - 01:53 PM

Hi group GF has a samsung dv337aeg/xaa lately the sensor dry settings were not working, I cleaned the sensor in the lint filter area and it seemed to work, but we're seeing slightly inconsistent results. With a mixed load of thin towels and large bath towels the thin are dry and the large are not, the GF thinks that's an issue, I think it could be in sensor mode it does not want to over dry. Anyway, now her assistant says the timer is not working properly but I just did a test and it did.

I know someone cleaned the vent out but it does have a long way to exit the house and it does not have an additional blower and it goes up 9 feet vertically.

Lastly, I did not see any bag with a manual on the back panel inside or out.

Thanks for the help... Dave

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#2 kdog

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Posted 11 November 2011 - 07:40 PM

Try running unit with vent disconnected and see if issue "goes away"
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#3 dfphoto

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Posted 11 November 2011 - 09:10 PM

HI I did test it out without the vent connected and it did resolve the original problem of turning off right away... that is after I cleaned the sensor and took the pcb board out and checked the connectors. Had dust in an older stack unit that caused a failure.

Seems like the the standard problems are the sensors and the thermister but not sure how hard it would be to replace the sensor in the lint trap if It turns out to be the issue...

#4 kdog

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 12:17 AM

Simple enough, just take off the front of the dryer, but venting is usually the issue - especially if you're pushing 9 ft vertical as well
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#5 john63

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 12:18 AM

A little clarification:
If the cycle selected is an AUTOMATIC cycle (Sensor Dry)---the time *Displayed* on the Control Panel indicates the **estimated** run duration of the cycle. The cycle time may be shorter or *slightly* longer than the time displayed (depending on the data feedback from the MOISTURE SENSOR).

If a TIME DRY cycle is selected (i.e., 51 minutes)---the time *Displayed* on the Control Panel will be the **actual** run time or duration of the cycle. The cycle will end after 51 minutes. The SENSOR DRY feature is not used whenever TIME DRY is selected. The dryer runs by clock-method and not by sensor-dry method.

Also---if FABRIC SOFTENER SHEETS are used---the MOISTURE SENSORS (on the lint filter housing) should be *scrubbed* clean---to remove wax build-up from the softener sheet---with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD.
If not done---the waxy residue on the MOISTURE SENSOR causes inaccurate sensor function.
In most cases---towels/denims & other heavier fabrics will be about 90 percent dry---when the cycle ends. Requiring on average---another 10 to 15 minutes of additional run time to finish drying the load.

Excessively long vents (longer than 8 feet and/or having more than two 90 degree turns) can be a problem for AUTOMATIC (or Sensor Dry) cycles.
Longer vents add more back-pressure---which creates the need for additional run time to dry a load of laundry.
When selecting an AUTOMATIC/Sensor Dry cycle---the alotted run time is pre-programmed into the computer.
If the time **needed** to dry laundry is **longer** than the time Displayed on the Control Panel (because of the abnormal length of the vent system)---the cycle will end with the laundry damp
.
If the less-than-ideal vent system cannot be reduced in overall length or a reduction in the number of 60 and/or 90 degree turns---it may be necessary to use the dryer only in the TIME DRY mode (enter the amount of run time that you "guess-timate" is needed to dry the load of laundry.

************

<<<I cleaned the sensor in the lint filter area and it seemed to work, but we're seeing slightly inconsistent results.>>>

************

If FABRIC SOFTENER SHEETS are used---clean the MOISTURE SENSOR after *every* load in which a Fabric Softener Sheet has been used.

************

<<<I did test it out without the vent connected and it did resolve the original problem of turning off right away... that is after I cleaned the sensor>>>

************

If the problem was: "The dryer turns off after running for a few minutes".
It becomes necessary to understand that---if the MOISURE SENSOR detects no moisture at all---the AUTOMATIC type cycle (Sensor Dry) will shut-down the dryer within 2 to 3 minutes (this will occur if the dryer is started with an empty drum---no laundry).
If the MOISTURE SENSOR periodically detects moisture but not consistently---the dryer will shut-down after a few more minutes of run time.
This can be caused by a heavily coated MOISTURE SENSOR (wax residue) but is much more likely to be caused by adding too small of a load into the dryer drum.
If the laundry load is small---and the dryer itself is level on the floor *or* too elevated/higher at the front of the dryer than the rear of the dryer---this causes wet laundry to largely/predominately tumble around/at the rear half of the drum (which is quite large).
Wet laundry that tumbles mostly at the back-end of the drum---will be too far from the MOISTURE SENSOR at the front of the drum (on the lint filter housing) and not fall (contact) onto the sensor at all or does so infrequently.
This will then cause the computer (MAIN BOARD) to "think" that the laundry is dry---when in fact---it is not and begin an early termination of the cycle.
Raising (adjusting) the rear leveling legs of the dryer---so that---the front of the dryer is lower than the rear/back---eliminates this problem.
An inch elevation at the back/rear legs is usually sufficient.

************

<<<Seems like the the standard problems are the sensors and the thermister>>>

************

MOISTURE SENORS (lint filter housing) never wear-out/fail.
THERMISTORS on the other hand *do*.
It's unlikely that the THERMISTOR is causing the symptoms you've described.

Edited by john63, 12 November 2011 - 01:47 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 12:19 AM


... vent out but it does have a long way to exit the house
? ? ?

If you could check the temperature at the Dryer Vent:
and check your Venting System

Dryer Vent

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F
Check / clean the Dryer Vent
Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.
Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.


 
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#7 dfphoto

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 09:44 AM

Wow, you guys are amazing... Thank you for the help, the dryer vent goes through a wall then into a garage where a smart contractor decided to use accordian dryer vent material to go up the wall then across the garage and out. I'm assuming that's the real issue as you've all mentioned. My GF has a host of allergies so, every load has softeners and with the soft water they have here (CT.) I believe the sensor being coated as you said is the issue with the sensor dry settings not working as I think they work and the explanation above about estimated dry times fits my profile of the machine. I am having a tough time reaching the sensor to clean it but have resorted to a couple of hard brushes and some basic house cleaning solutions.

I am confident your assessment of the clothes in the rear of the drum is correct, as a full load of towels successfully dried. I'll do some checking and see what I can come up with but I'm going home to Los Angeles tomorrow will have to see what I can do. At least with your help, I was able to get the machine 90% working if not 100%. Thanks to all will check back once I try some of the suggestions.

Best Dave

Edited by dfphoto, 12 November 2011 - 09:46 AM.


#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 11:57 AM

Posted Image


Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 john63

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 12:48 PM

<<<I am having a tough time reaching the sensor to clean it >>>

************

The SENSOR location is on the *drum side* of the lint filter housing.

If you put your head into the dryer drum---and look down at the lint filter housing---you'll see 2 stainless steel strips of metal.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 kdog

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 10:45 PM

If you put your head into the dryer drum---


Be careful not to pull a "Linda Blair"

http://www.applianto...__1#entry212212
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