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Error Code on Electrolux Range EW30EF65GSH


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#1 wood

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 07:17 PM

Using our new electric range (Electrolux EW30EF65GSH) for the first time, we got an F15 error code after the oven shut down, about 20 minutes into roasting a chicken at 450. I cut the power to the range for 5 minutes, turned it back on and it reset no problem. I ran the oven again at 450, and after about 20 minutes, it shut off and displayed the same error code. Reset it, and tested it for a third time with the same result.

I figured there must be a bad component and scheduled a repair through the manufacturer. When the repair guy finally came out, he said he was getting some voltage (less than 1V, according to my wife who was there) between neutral and ground, so our problem was with our wiring, not necessarily the range. (And yes, during installation I cut off the copper tape between the neutral and ground terminals on the back of the range).

I had just installed a new 50A, 240V circuit for the range, along with a new 4-prong receptacle--and while I'm no electrician, I was fairly confident that there was nothing wrong with the circuit. It's pretty straightforward (although wresting 6-gauge cable is anything but). To be sure there weren't any bad ground connections, I tightened everything up at the panel and ended up swapping in a new receptacle, just in case.

I ran the oven again and sure enough, got the same error code after about 20 minutes. I wish I could verify the voltage reading between neutral and ground, but I assume my cheap multimeter isn't up to the job... I get 0.0V and if the repair guy's multimeter read something, I'll defer to the better quality of his equipment.

So should there really be no voltage at all between neutral and ground on a 240V circuit? Researching a bit, it seems like you would expect load current to flow through the impedance of the neutral wire (http://ecmweb.com/ma...power_problems/), and give some kind of voltage reading between neutral and ground. If that's normal, then can I be confident that the range has a faulty component?

Or, if there really should be 0V between neutral and ground, should I have an electrician come out to make sure the circuit has been installed properly? I hate to have to shell out even more for an electrician if it isn't necessary. We already had to pay the repairman, since obviously our wiring isn't covered by the warranty.

Thanks for any insight you can provide...

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#2 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 07:40 PM

F15 is signal loss between EOC and relay board.

Does the range have a 3 wire cord or 4?

Although when installing a 4 wire cord all information
say to remove the ground strap from the terminal block
which I think is what your calling the copper tape?

I have found that on units with advanced electronics
(like yours) that regardless if you have a 3 or 4 wire cord
you will likely have problems if you remove the ground strap.

I have seen this on several occassions...reinstalled the ground strap
and problem goes away.
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#3 wood

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 07:49 PM

Yeah, it's 4 wire, with separate ground and neutral. So reinstall the ground strap? Guess it's worth a shot... but seems to go against what I've read on the subject. At this point, I'm frustrated enough to try anything.

Thanks!

#4 appl.tech.29501

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 09:26 PM

Did the tech check the connections at the boards?

Yes, give the ground strap a try. Your not going to hurt anything.
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#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 11:31 PM

... I had just installed a new 50A, 240V circuit for the range, along with a new 4-prong receptacle--and while I'm no electrician

Nema 14-50 Range Outlet
4-wire (3 straight prongs) (not L)
4 wires to Circuit Breaker Box
top prong = Neutral
bottom prong = Ground

connected together only at the Circuit Breaker Box


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#6 wood

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Posted 12 November 2011 - 11:46 PM

That's what I'm working with, yes, although we run around 120V here. The issue is the voltage between neutral and ground. Should it be 0V, or is the <1V reading acceptable? Right now, neutral and ground are connected only at the panel.

Given that this fault occurs predictably, I'm inclined to think it's a component issue on the circuit boards. It doesn't seem reasonable that the oven would suddenly start drawing more current after 20-some minutes, does it?

#7 jumptrout

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 08:02 AM

I would not concern myself with a 1v reading on ground. The tech may need a new battery in his multi meter or re-calibration.
I would however remove and replace all wires on the relay board and EOC.
What does the oven do at less than the 450 degree setting?

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 08:30 AM

less that 1v should be OK..
Should be checking that when the Oven is ON.
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#9 Chat_in_FL

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 10:11 AM


Using our new electric range (Electrolux EW30EF65GSH) for the first time, we got an F15 error code after the oven shut down, about 20 minutes into roasting a chicken at 450. I cut the power to the range for 5 minutes, turned it back on and it reset no problem. I ran the oven again at 450, and after about 20 minutes, it shut off and displayed the same error code. Reset it, and tested it for a third time with the same result.


I don't know about the tech's meter readings. As previouly stated, readings should be taken with range on (under load). A Loose neutral connection at the breaker will give you strange readings.

F15 = Signal loss between oven relay board & EOC (as stated earlier).

Suggested corrective action as follows:

1. Test the harness and connections from EOC connector P16 to oven relay board J2.
2. Replace the oven relay board.
3. Replace the EOC.
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#10 wood

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:34 PM

Because I first encountered the fault at 450 with convection, I have been using that as my test mode since. But today I thought I'd see if I could get it to repeat the fault at other temperatures, so I ran the oven this afternoon at 350 for 45 minutes, then increased the temperature to 400 for another half hour, then to 425 with convection for 45 minutes. No problems. Then I increased the temperature to 450 with convection and let it run... and got the F15 error after 20-30 minutes.

One thing I neglected to mention earlier is that the range only resets after it cools down. Disconnecting the power alone doesn't do it. How could this issue be temperature related? Stranger still, my son told me he used the oven at 425 the other day for maybe 20 minutes, shut off the oven when his food was done, only to get the F15 error after a couple more minutes passed--with the oven off. I just can't wrap my head around this one.

I think replacing the relay board and EOC is the most reasonable solution. Thanks for outlining a concrete solution. At the very least it will help rule that out as a source of the error.

#11 jumptrout

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:39 PM

Is your fan failing at the higher temps?

#12 wood

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 07:50 PM

As far as I know the convection fan keeps going until the entire oven shuts itself down.

#13 jumptrout

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 08:14 PM

There is a re-settable thermal fuse in this range that will trip at high temps. The fuse usually trips due to a poor air circulation. It also usually re-sets itself in 5-15 minutes.
What on earth are you baking at 450 anyway?

#14 jumptrout

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 08:18 PM

Chat in RI has a good point,but,the fact your controls re-set themselves within the allotted time leads me to the thermal fuse and poor air circulation.

#15 wood

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 08:50 PM

A thermal fuse... that would make sense. But poor air circulation? The range has been sitting in the middle of the kitchen all day, so there's not much I can do to improve that. Maybe the fuse is bad? Is it mounted on a board, or could it have somehow been jostled out of position?

The controls seem to re-set depending on temperature. If you leave the oven open, it cools off faster and re-sets faster. Otherwise it probably takes closer to 30 minutes.

Roasting a chicken at 450 for 50 minutes or so gives you some amazingly crispy skin!

#16 jumptrout

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 07:09 AM

The thermal fuse is located beside the cooling fan. There is a procedure involving setting the timer 1 minute before the F15 occurs to determine which part is bad. One of these guys with manuals access will have to provide the procedure. You will have to register first.

#17 kdog

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 02:34 PM

Those are pretty complex units (contain approx 6 boards), not sure I would mess with it too much being under warranty. The Fail codes differ depending on whether you have a "Wave-Touch" or "I Q-Touch" control - i take it from the number that yours ia a Wave-touch (fully electronics display that wakes up for input) which also has a "Mini-Oven" in the drawer. It is important to note exactly which area of the control this code appears as it has different meanings for various area's of the control (Oven,Surface,lower Oven).
The diagrams for either models do not show the cooling fan/thermostat set up that was previously mentioned.

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#18 wood

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 10:46 PM

Thanks for all your help. Just a brief update... the repair guy came back and replaced the clock control (which I take is the EOC?). It didn't fix the error. The guy didn't even stick around to check, just swapped it out and left.

To add to our frustration, he wouldn't refund the $75 he charged us for his first visit, when he said the problem was with our wiring not the range. When he took the reading on the outlet and found voltage between neutral and ground, the range wasn't even plugged in. Am I right to think he is either incompetent or fraudulent?

Electrolux is sending someone else out (from a different company, at our insistance) on Friday. Needless to say, our Thanksgiving plans are off. But hopefully we can get this sorted out soon.

#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 11:15 PM

... repair guy ... said the problem was with our wiring not the range....
... found voltage between neutral and ground, the range wasn't even plugged in.


... The issue is the voltage between neutral and ground. Should it be 0V, or is the <1V reading acceptable?


... Should be checking that when the Oven is ON.


.... As previouly stated, readings should be taken with range on (under load).


sounds like a Wall Outlet / House Wiring problem
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#20 kdog

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Posted 23 November 2011 - 12:36 AM

Are you able to check the circuit to see if there is a problem with it ? Theoretically there should be 0 v from N to ground, and you said you just installed the circuit - check the voltages youself. You also stated that it occurs after long uses so the likelyhood of the outlet being the issue makes less sense.
Is your range the IQ touch or Wave ? the boards involved in this are loacted on the back of the range.
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