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MAH5500BW New Bearings/Seals..rockin'& rollin w/no high speed


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17 replies to this topic

#1 diy54

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 01:20 PM

My (soon to be target practice) washer has new brand new bearing & seals. I had the machine sitting on a carpet piece to avoid scatching moms floors. When it got to the spin cycle it would shake violently and would never go into the highest speed and would also nver completely finish the cycle. Clothes were pretty wet......Put machine back on wood floors and it doesn't woble as much but all else remains ther same. Please help ....as my son is itchin' to take it to the gun range....swears he can fix it!

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#2 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 02:26 PM

LOL!

Check your off balance switches. There should be three. Corrosion on the 1/4in spades of the switches can cause the no spin/slow spin. A shorted/malfunctioning inertial switch can cause the violent shaking. One switch is at the very bottom of the weight/bumper under the tub. Another is on the side of the tub at the 3 o'clock position. The inertial switch is at the 2 o'clock position under the front lip of the upper cement weight.

The person who changed the bearings may also have made a mistake when reassembling the unit or forgot a cement weight or loose shocks.

I did notice that you didn't say you tried to re-level the unit. check the feet and make sure it doesn't rock corner to corner (diagonally).

Get back to us :)
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#3 diy54

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Posted 13 November 2011 - 04:43 PM

Was only able to find two of the three switches (3:00 switch MIA). Everything appears to be ok......Machine was working perfectly prior to replacement of bearings/seals. Could problem be in there.....also, how tight should the nut on the rear of the drum be? btw....Machine is level.

("The person who changed the bearings may also have made a mistake when reassembling the unit or forgot a cement weight or loose shocks".)

This was me....thought I got it right but....(at least the 'lear jet' sound is gone!)

#4 diy54

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:20 AM

update:

Put machine back together, checked for level and ran a light load on "quick" wash.

Observations: 1) everything appears to be ok up to spin cycle.
2) light smell of burning rubber.
3) 2 speeds in spin cycle noticed ( missing high speed?)
4) timer counts down to 4 min. then went back up to 7 min. (appears to be trying to repeat spin cycle)
5) son.... losing faith in his hero....locked and loaded!!!!!! JK

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 12:16 PM

... ( missing high speed?)

is all of the Water being Drained before Spin ?
.

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#6 Tronicsmasta

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 03:58 PM

Sounds like your switches are probably ok.
Maybe a bad mcu if it never reaches 1000 rpm.
Did u try it empty?
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).

#7 diy54

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Posted 14 November 2011 - 08:42 PM

update: (sorry.....unable to get to computer till now due to work)

ran empty on "quick" wash cycle.....everything normal and all visible water is drained out except when tub is spun by hand i still can hear some sloshing water.......cycle time ran down to 2min. then jumped up to 5min. and repeats this process until I pull the power cord. Seems like the final "high" speed spin never happens. Also, still light smell of burning rubber noticed at end of spin cycle at 2min....nut on back of washer is currently hand tight.....much tighter and I can barely hand-spin the drum. Any idea how tight this nut should be?

Thanks to all!




Thanks for all your

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 06:46 AM

Part link to the motor control unit ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=MAH5500BWW

If it doesn't fix the no-spin problem, return it for a refund!

#9 mark mac

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 09:10 AM

if u can.t tighten pulley nut something is binding between basket support and bearings

#10 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 06:16 AM

Don't those older Maytag front loaders have a crush sleeve between the two bearings?

Did you install a new crush sleeve? If not maybe that is why the bearings are binding when you tighten the main pulley nut down, compressing the two bearings in preloading them both and causing too much friction/load for the bearings to spin smoothly.
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#11 Comstock_Services

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:34 PM

if I remember correctly Willie you are correct, the new outer tub comes with a sleeve installed between the bearings, also it is important to remember to use the never seize lube that comes with the outer tub, to make sure the spinner support doesn't bind in the bearings, and seize to them as aluminum and steel will do.

The water you hear when you spin the drum(tub/Spin Basket) is in the balance ring more than likely. it is normal to hear that when turning the drum by hand. I haven't fully read your topic, but Grasshopper have you tried to spin the unit, while empty in diagnostic cycle? Have you located the tech sheet behind the control pannel? I would test the unit in diagnostic first, if it doesn't spin in the diagnostic cycle, then there are a few things that can be causing your issue.

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#12 nickfixit

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 07:05 AM

I would guess that you do not have the water seal fitted correctly, or it doesn't match the bearings that you installed. Anyone who has done a number of outer tub replacements on these is familiar with the "kit" of crap you get with the new tub and spinner. If you don't get the right seal set-up, you will get the exact symptoms you now have. The directions in the seal kit are not much help, typical Maytag part situation.
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#13 diy54

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:40 AM

Iam back after a major run-in with the flu and way behind at work. Many thanks to all who are trying to help me with this *%$&#@ washer! My wife has told me now that im feeling better the next trip to the laundrymat is on me.....obviously she has no concern for her clothes!

Anyway, heres the update.....
1) New crush sleeve installed and bearings snugged up against it. Checked bearings so that both are installed straight...hoping to fix wobble at spin cycle.

2) Purchased new seal kit that comes with 2 different seals in the package. One seal has a metal washer that that wont slide all the way down the shaft of the spinner support to seal over the o-ring so i had to use the other seal (this just happens to be the same seal that i installed before). This seal does not fit snug to the bearing... maybe it's not suppose to....has about a 3/16 gap between bearing and seal and is in as far as it will go.

3)Tightened new nut against 2 new washers (supplied in kit) to 30lbs/ft......tub is now very hard to spin with my hands.

I have stopped at this point because I think the tub should be alot easier to spin with my hands....am i right? or should i put it all back together and run it?

PS......please don't let her send me to the laundramat!!!! :yucky:

#14 washertech26

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:50 PM

Smelling burning rubber you might have installed the seal backwards

#15 nickfixit

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:12 PM

Just another reason I HATE MAYTAG. You get a new tub and spinner and worthless instructions in the seal kit, I'm glad they are history, it's just too bad they left all this trash for people to deal with. I'm sure you have the seal in wrong, but there is no way I know how to show or tell you how to make it right.
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#16 diy54

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:08 PM

Thanks.... i'll try to upload some pics of the seal in the morning......maybe that will help....thanks again for all the help!

#17 diy54

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:32 PM

Here is the kit I used: Part #12002022 (There are 2 seals in this kit. The only seal that would fit is the one in the bottom of the package....all other parts in this package have been used as well)

Attached File  maytag neptune seal kit.jpg   2.73KB   10 downloads

The seal is installed against the front bearing just as you see it in the picture.

#18 diy54

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Posted 09 December 2011 - 01:38 PM

Long story short (to spare my embarassment): New seal now installed correctly. (thanks nickfixit) I am able to freely spin the drum after tightening the rear nut!

Bad news: Ran a small load and it start to wobble at the beginning of the spin cycle. Clothes did look normal (wetness) at the completion of the cycle. I checked all the way around both bearings with a metal ruler to make sure they were in straight. Never wobbled prior to replacement of bearings though. Crush sleeve is new and snugged up to both bearings. Nut on rear is torqued to 30ft/lbs.
Any ideas??
How much can one man take???




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