I return seeking knowledge... and help
The electric hot water heater is 4 years old (manufactured in may 2007).
Been working no issues until 3 days ago. Now I only get about a 5-7 minute shower out of her. Water starts at the right temp but cools off fast.
No leaks. Water pressure is fine. Water temp is fine to start off at least.
So the question is.. why? She is heating, or I would have no hot water.. the temp is still set at 145ish (and the set valve is covered by a screw on plate so it is hard to change). It is like it is only heating 1/2 of the 50 gallon tank.
Only good is that she is still under limited warranty, but looking for thoughts before I call my local HVAC guys (and to make myself smart!)
Thanks in advance.
Appliantology Parts Search Box
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!
FAQs | Parts | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact
Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!
We have loads of repair manuals, photos, diagrams, personal instruction, and appliance parts-- everything you need to get it fixed and fixed right away!
You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.
Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.
Bradford White Electric 50gal- Model m250s6ds-1ncww
Started by bcsample, Nov 14 2011 07:39 PM
electric water heater
2 replies to this topic
#1
bcsample
-
- Grasshopper
-
- 2 posts
Unsui
- Flavorite Brew:Dogfishead Chicory Stout
Posted 14 November 2011 - 07:39 PM
Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!
#2
Richard.Noggins
-
- Chief Appliantologist
-
- 6 posts
Samanera
Posted 14 November 2011 - 09:27 PM
3 possibilities; Limit tripped on one element, one element burnt, dip tube corroded.
The limits are under the covers. Red button. Also remember electricity is under the covers.
Elements can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. Turn electricity off first!
The dip tube is part of the cold water inlet. It must be unscrewed from the top of the heater.
The limits are under the covers. Red button. Also remember electricity is under the covers.
Elements can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. Turn electricity off first!
The dip tube is part of the cold water inlet. It must be unscrewed from the top of the heater.
Edited by Richard.Noggins, 14 November 2011 - 10:27 PM.
- kdog likes this
#3
bcsample
-
- Grasshopper
-
- 2 posts
Unsui
- Flavorite Brew:Dogfishead Chicory Stout
Posted 15 November 2011 - 11:14 AM
I may get all ambitious and check the continuity myself!
thanks for the vector
thanks for the vector
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
FAQs | Parts | Memberships | Repair Videos | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact
Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!
Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."
ApplianceGuru.com | AppliancePartsResource.com | Fixitnow.com
