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All 4 Stove ingiters not clicking GE JGSP30GEP4BG Gas


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9 replies to this topic

#1 n9911c

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 07:54 PM

Hi Samurai,

My stove burner igniters are not clicking. This happened two years ago and I bought a module and put it in. Still no clicking. Fast forward to this week. I started troubleshooting it again. Checked the knob switches for continuity at the switch and the wires to the module. Checked the igniter wire continuity and the igniters for short to ground. All ok. Now to the module and transformer. I found that I did not connect the line and neutral wires to the correct terminals on the module. I followed my drawing for the six wires but there were seven terminals and I had shifted the line and neutral over one. (Neutral terminal was open, green neutral wire was hooked to line terminal, orange hot wire was hooked to ground terminal)

Now the questions:
The new module has a ground terminal on it. I don't remember if the original module had it and there is no extra loose wire. Do I need to add this ground wire? I tried it and it still doesn't fire.

Would the wires being crossed fry the module?

I have 121 volts to the line terminal all the time and it drops to 119 volts when I turn on a burner.

What does the transformer do??? I have about 119vac in and 121 vac out measuring with red to one wire and black to the other wire. Is it just there to make sure there is a;ways120 + volts supplied?

Thanks for the opportunity to ask for your knowledge.
Tony

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#2 kdog

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:06 PM

Is this the module you are using ? :


00568582.jpg

http://www.repaircli...er=JGSP30GEP4BG


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#3 kdog

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Posted 16 November 2011 - 08:10 PM

If the module has a ground terminal, it should have a wire connected to ground - when you turn on a knob (any one of them) you should get 120 v between line and neutral, when you turn the knob off you should have zero. It is important that the polarity of the circuit you are using is correct
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#4 n9911c

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 12:06 PM

Sensei,
Yes, that is the module I have. I have 121 volts going into the transformer and 122 volts coming out of it (disconnected from the module). With the leads attached to the module I have 121.5 volts between line and neutral, never zero. The voltage between line and neutral at the module drop 1 volt each time I turn any four of the knobs on. I attached a diagram and a pic of the module connected. I am pretty sure the polarity is correct. So, is it the module that pulls the line voltage to zero when the valve switches are open?
Thanks,
Tony

That is "any of the four knobs on"

Attached File  Diagram.jpg   77.21KB   7 downloads

Attached File  Polarity.jpg   91.75KB   10 downloads

Here are the attached pics.
Tony

#5 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 12:59 PM

N to chassis (ground) = 0 v
L to chassis (ground) = 120 v

120v to chassis (ground) of the following pins when the corresponding Burner Valve is turn to ON
9
10
11
12
.

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#6 n9911c

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 02:22 PM

Sorry I didn't understand that in your first post, but now I do. I have 120v to chassis ground at 9 10 11 and 12 when the corresponding knob is turned on. My meter is reading 0.165 on terminal 12 --- 0.175 on 11 --- 0.185 on 10 and 0.265 on 9. when the knob is turned off. I am assuming this is 0 volts. I did this check at the switches and the module connections.

It is a fried module? Yes?

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 02:36 PM

N to chassis (ground) = 0 v
L to chassis (ground) = 120 v


.

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#8 n9911c

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 02:45 PM

N to chassis = 0 v
L to chassis = 120 v

That's a yes on both.

#9 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 03:01 PM

bad Module, unless one or all of the Output Wires are shorted to chassis
.

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#10 n9911c

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Posted 17 November 2011 - 03:20 PM

I will check that before getting a module. I will be buying some beer now. You must be thirsty.

Thanks for all the diagnostic help.

Regards,
Tony




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