11 replies to this topic

[rwfisher]

Wondering if the motor has given up the ghost. The drum won't spin; when you select a dry cycle and hit the start button the control panel makes a humming noise and that's about it. The drum seems to spin OK by hand. The rear of the dryer is HOT to the touch as well.

Has anyone run across this before? Just making inquiries before pulling the machine apart....

[jumptrout]

Remove the top cover to determine if the belt is broken. If it is broken you will also have to remove the rear panel to change the belt.

[rwfisher]

belt is intact, the bearing on the drum seems OK. I'll test the motor next...in retrospect i probably should have tested the spaghetti wiring first.

Does anyone know what the resistance should be across the motor terminals? I get continuity across all three....

[kdog]

I get continuity across all three....

How many Ohms ? any continuity to Ground from any of them ?

[rwfisher]

22-50 ohms across the terminals. No continuity to ground.

I checked repairclinic.com for a replacement, just in case. Doesn't appear to be the same motor; mine has the start capacitor mounted separately while the version on the website has it on the motor.....

[kdog]

22-50 ohms across the terminals

What about the other pair ? a reversible split phase would have 2 windings more or less the same, so 2 of the pin combinations should roughly add up to be the third in which case you don't likely need a motor anyhow. Try turning the motor by hand in both directions

[rwfisher]

22.5 ohms from L1 to common
55 ohms from L2 to common
34 ohms across the hot leads

I tried to test the starting capacitor with my digital multimeter. Ambiguous results...so I reconnected the motor leads, plugged in the dryer, and tried starting the motor by hand. It just hums....

[kdog]

It should perhaps be noted that I have never worked on an Asko dryer so am unfamiliar with them. Having said that, your motor readings are suspect for a split phase motor. As for the capacitor it is actually a running capacitor that also provides a phase differential - the voltage rating on the cap will me much higher than the rated motor voltage (120 or 240, not sure what theirs are but the motor plate will have it stamped).


More on capacitor testing: http://www.applianto...__1#entry168814

http://www.applianto...otor-capacitor/

[jumptrout]

Check the blower wheel for any obstruction. Remove the belt from the drum then start the motor.
No blower obstruction...no belt...no start=bad motor.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Juat watch out for those lint rats when you clean out the blower. ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-an-asko-dryer/

[rwfisher]

Problem solved...it was the run capacitor. Took the opportunity to clean out those lint rats (domo arigato, Sensei) and clean/lube the bearings all around. Thanks for the help!

[rwfisher]

Addendum: if you clean and lube the motor bearings....don't use household multipurpose oil. I did so and after about 3 loads the dryer starting making a horrible noise....I localized it to the motor bearings. Used a needle attachment on my trusty grease gun to pack as much grease in as I could (without getting any on the windings...) and so far so good.

I read somewhere that they don't put grease fittings on bearings for these small electric motors because they calculate by the time they'll need additional grease they'll be worn out anyway. My view on the matter is....if they still work, they're still good......

I also figured out a less painful way to get the &^%*#$#! belt back on the drum....if anyone's interested let me know and i'll share.

Edited by rwfisher, 18 December 2011 - 09:28 PM.