14 replies to this topic

[The Penguin]

I purchased a used oven/microwave combo. Got it installed and hit the button to preheat the oven. Waited 10 minutes and nothing has happened.

So - here's what I've done so far:

checked ohms of the bake element - read 24 ohms.

Checked both the bake and broil elements. Both elements have voltage from the left side (as looking at the oven) orange wire that comes from the hi-limit switch (according to the wiring diagram)

Neither element has voltage coming from the right side wire (violet for the broil element, yellow for the bake element.)

I've checked the temp sensor and it reads 1090 ohms.

so, I think the problem may be in the relay control board, but I'm not sure how to test it.

any other suggestions?

Thanks!

[The Penguin]

Oh, and I tested the door switch for continuity across the switch when closed - it seems fine.

According to the service manual I found - if I press the "stop time" button down for 10 seconds after powering up the oven, it should enter test mode. I've tried numerous times, but this is not working.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... oven/microwave combo.
... Got it installed

Does the Oven Light work ?
Does the Microwave / Outlet work ?

How's the voltages at Wall Outlet / Oven Terminal Strip ?
L1 to L2 = 240v AC
L1 to N = 120v AC
L2 to N = 120v AC
Re-set the House Circuit Breakers.

[The Penguin]

Yes - oven light works
yes - microwave/outlet works fine, my wife used it to heat her coffee

L1 to L2 = 0v (I'm no electrician, but without testing through a neutral, just checking across L1 to L2 shouldn't show any volts, right?)
L1 to N = 120v
L2 to N = 120v

breaker has been cycled off/on numerous times.

[RegUS_PatOff]

L1 to L2 = 0v

there's your problem
should be
L1 to L2 = 240v AC
who wired the Outlet ?
Had it been used for anything previously ?
also, both Circuit Breakers (pair) should be on the same side of the Breaker Box

[The Penguin]

OK - I rechecked it with the multimeter again.

L1 to L2 = 0v

the outlet was in the house already, the previous MW/oven combo was on the circuit. It's hard-wired at a J-box, not to an outlet.

both circuit breakers are on the same side of the box and are adjacent (one above the other).

NOW - I did encounter a problem when removing the old oven as follows:

I turned off the breaker for the oven, but the oven light was still on. So I went through all the breakers and found that when I switched off the breaker for the stove - the oven light goes off. The stove breaker is also a 2-pole breaker using the same size wire (#8 I think) as the oven breaker

investigating in the box I found that the white wires for each breaker were switched. So the black wire for the oven was paired with the white wire for the stove and both hooked into the breaker for the oven. Same with the stove breaker. The oven breaker is directly above the stove breaker in my box. Box is a Federal Pacific in case you are wondering.

checking voltages at the oven outlet, with both breakers on - I had 120v at each leg. If I turned one breaker off, I had 0v in one leg, and ~20v at the other. If I turned that breaker off, and turned the other on - the leg that had the 20v switched. Does that make sense?

So - I switched the white wires so that they are matched with the black wire at the proper breaker. If this is incorrect, please let me know.

The stove is working properly, but I did not check the voltages at the outlet. I will do so in the morning.

[RegUS_PatOff]

Ground wire = GREEN
WHITE wire should only be used for NEUTRAL
L1 / L2 should be BLACK wire / RED wire
Mis-wiring can cause Electronic Controller burn-out
AND / OR DEATH by electrocution

[The Penguin]

green? there are no green wires!

from the breaker box/wall - I have a black/white and bare copper wire. These are all bundled in the same sheath.

from the oven, I have black/red/white/bare bundled in the whip.

I wired black to black, red (oven) to white (wall) and the white from the oven with both bare copper wires. This is the same configuration that the old oven was wired.

[The Penguin]

I talked with a friend that is an electrician. He says my problem is that the oven and stove breakers are on the same phase - and the solution is to move one of the single pole breakers between the 2 2-pole breakers.

does that sound right?

[RegUS_PatOff]

... the outlet was in the house already,

.... there are no green wires!
... box/wall - I have a black/white and bare copper wire. .

... I talked with a friend that is an electrician.

1) was that a 220v Outlet >?
2) OK... green = bare copper
3) you need Black / White / Red / bare copper
4) did you mention what wire / colors you had ?

[The Penguin]

1. not an outlet. It's wires from the breaker box to a square junction box. Whip from oven connects to j-box, wire connections are made inside.
3. that's the wires colors coming out of the oven
4. see below:

green? there are no green wires!

from the breaker box/wall - I have a black/white and bare copper wire. These are all bundled in the same sheath.

from the oven, I have black/red/white/bare bundled in the whip.

I wired black to black, red (oven) to white (wall) and the white from the oven with both bare copper wires. This is the same configuration that the old oven was wired.

[RegUS_PatOff]

3) you need Black / White / Red / bare copper
4) did you mention what wire / colors you had ?

[The Penguin]

so you're saying I need a 4-wire conductor from the breaker box to the oven?

[Comstock_Services]

I have in the past, seen electricians use 10-2 for a 220v circuit. If this is the case, then you should have 120 on the white, 120 on the black, and the bare wire will act as neutral and ground. I do not advise using a circuit like that, but the old timers did it that way quite often. Since this appears to be the case, you should have 240v from black to white, and 120v between white and bare, as well as 120v between black and bare.

I strongly advise that you have a new circuit run with at minimum 3 insulated wires.

Yes sir, Reg is saying that it would be a good Idea to run a new circuit from the breaker to the oven.

Edited by Comstock_Services, 26 November 2011 - 01:25 AM.

[RegUS_PatOff]

so you're saying I need a 4-wire conductor from the breaker box to the oven?

usually required for national and local electrical codes..
How's you home liability & fire insurance and life insurance ?