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DD603 F&P Dishdrawer - Top F1, Bottom no power, heater plate and resistor ok...

dd603 power supply resistor heater plate f1

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4 replies to this topic

#1 hutchwilco

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 06:16 PM

Hi guys,

I have a DD603 dishdrawer.

Currently I have a F1 fault and top drawer motor spinning on the top drawer which is persistent - comes back even after hitting power off, or unplugging supply power.
The bottom drawer shows no power. From what I've read (service manuals, this forum and the bulletin from F&P) this indicated power supply resistor

Recently I had to replace the mains filter board because the flood switch shorted out (and burnt a big hole in the pcb - over possibly hours of fizzing). I've replaced the board (w secondhand) and connected everything up.

Following the appliance servicing guide, I've removed the heater plate to check the thermal fuse and what I understand to be the most likely problem - the power supply resistor.

I've linked to a photo of the plate here:
http://db.tt/kWD1PbSW


I'm guessing the finer track on the outer edge of the plate is the power supply resistor and the wider inner track is the heater?

In that case the heater track is 59.6Ohms and the power supply resistor is 125.1Ohms (all at room temp - 20degC)

So all looks good. In fact the process of writing this I have established the thermal fuse and supply resistor are probably ok.

What's the next step then for a dead bottom drawer and persistent F1 code and spinning rotor on the top? I have eliminated any type of flood from the equation.
Is it some relay on the mains filter board or is it the controller board for the lower drawer causing problems?

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#2 hutchwilco

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Posted 25 November 2011 - 07:14 PM

Update:

I've reassembled, and switched the controllers. Bottom tub works fine with the top tub's controller. No life from the top tub. This points to the bottom tub's (original) controller. I had inspected the board visually and not found anything amiss (I'm a production engineer at an electronics manufacturer).
Is there a guide or information on the controllers so that they may be trouble shot and repaired by those with the relevant skills and equipment?

Am I on the right track here?
Summary:
F1 code and spinning motor on top tub. persistent. activates about 20s after giving power. doesn't seem to end without unplugging power.
bottom tub no life at all. there's no water anywhere near the dishwasher, (no supply currently) so a leak is not the problem.

so far: have removed bottom tub heater plate and inspected - all ohm values are nominal.
previously have replaced mains filter with secondhand working board.

now: switched controllers and now the bottom tub works ok, top tub has no life. this points me to the controller being the problem. correct?

#3 Comstock_Services

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 12:39 AM

so what you are saying is that you replaced the main control with a used main control?

I would say that if you can switch the drawer controls, yes you could have a bad control.

Do you mean with the control in the bottom drawer, your F1 magically goes away?

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#4 hutchwilco

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 04:47 AM

so what you are saying is that you replaced the main control with a used main control?

I would say that if you can switch the drawer controls, yes you could have a bad control.

Do you mean with the control in the bottom drawer, your F1 magically goes away?


yes - the F1 stops. I'd read that an F1 on the top drawer only indicates no power to the bottom drawer and the usual suspect is the heater plate thermal fuse or power resistor. However I've eliminated those two items. Leaving a question mark hanging over the controller. Switching them has confirmed at least that something is wrong with the bottom controller.

I guess what I'd like to know is is there any knowledge or experience out there on troubleshooting the controller itself and performing a repair if possible. Perhaps a capacitor or some other part is known to blow. In which case I'd much prefer to repair myself with resources at my work than purchase a whole new controller board. I have visually inspected the board and ruled out any obvious burn out.

Also mentioned in cases of top-drawer-F1 is to check the coils - the inlet and outlet etc but I'm not entirely sure of the best way to test these so any info on that would be great too.

Thanks!

#5 kdog

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Posted 26 November 2011 - 08:28 PM

See this post: http://www.applianto...__fromsearch__1
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