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b_sinning

No Water in Dishwasher

12 posts in this topic

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I finally found my multimeter. I just tested the old water inlet valve and it's fine. I guess I now have a spare one. I'm thinking it must be power going to the valve. Hmmmm...now what?

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Use that new-found multimeter to see if you're getting voltage to the fill valve. If not, check the float switch and timer.

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The dishwasher runs but no water so I believe the timer is ok. Would a dead float switch prevent the water inlet valve from allowing water though?

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[user=473]b_sinning[/user] wrote:

...so I believe the timer is ok.

Beliefs are for religion; this is appliance repair-- we know or we don't know. And in order to know, we use instruments, such as multimeters, and wiring diagrams to help us navigate the circuitry. In my previous post, I linked you to an article that explains how to use your meter. Read it, use it.

Yes, a bad float switch can stop the valve from getting voltage, so can a bad timer contact-- that's why I instructed you to use your meter and find out which is the culprit.

Your next post should have specific questions about making this measurement and/or a post of your wiring diagram so I can tell you exactly where and what to measure.

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I have the same exact problem with a GE dishwasher. I have changed out the water inlet valve with another one off another GE dishwasher and still no water coming in. I have checked the overflow switch with an ohm-meter and it is ok. I have also checked the voltage coming into the water inlet valve (after I changed the valve out) and got no voltage while the dishwasher was running. What else could it be and where is it located. Also a good way to check it would be nice too.

Thanks,

Techno-novice

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Oh yeah, the model number is GSC3200Z03BL and its a GE.

Thanks

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Do you have a heat/air dry switch??  These are known to burn out causing no voltage to the fill valve from the timer/conrtol.

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There is a button on the front of it that says "heated dry". How do I check it? Is there a way to by-pass it?

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Cut the power to your unit and access the switch to check it with your ohm meter or with your volt stick if you have one and want to check for voltage thru this switch.  I would not care to address by-passing this.

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Well, I have checked the heated dry switch. It has 3 wires coming of of it. Orange, blue, and black w/white strip. I pulled the wires off and checked the switch with my ohm meter. It had continuity from the middle terminal and left terminal in the on position and then I switched it to the off position and it had continuity from the middle and right terminals. That tells me that the switch checks out good. Now just out of curiosity I checked the continuity on the wires themselves and I had continuity on the blue and black wires going to the switch from the timer. Can this mean the timer is bad?

Now when you try to run the machine, the knob on the timer turns which means that the rotating knob part of the timer is working.

Any more suggestions?

Thanks

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Get you a volt stick and see where you are losing voltage to the valve.  If you show voltage to the valve, perhaps you did not turn the water back on or the float bubble is stick  up if no voltage to the valve but voltage to the float switch.

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