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Whirlpool Calypso MN GVW9959KQ2. Won't power up.

Calypso Wont power up

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20 replies to this topic

#1 deke019

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 05:46 PM

Display would not power up.
Folowed "trouble shooting and diagnosis" in manual.
Have power to filter, power out of filter and power at connector P16 pins 2 & 4.
Had bad lid switch and fuse on motor controller board. Have replaced both. Still no power up.
Without throwing any more money into parts, what should I check and/ or replace for the thing to work?

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#2 KurtiusInterupptus

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Posted 01 December 2011 - 06:59 PM

Should have posted here FIRST, and then ordered the parts from repairclinic.com and you wouldn't be stuck with these expensive guesses, as they have a 1 year, no ? Asked return policy...
Also we would have told ya not waste your time and money on this waste of plastic and metal...one of the worst machines ever ,IMHO....
As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.

#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 06:48 AM

And a spot-on HO it is, Brother Kurtius!

#4 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 12:26 PM

Thank you for your replies.
And I thought I would get some sort of beneficial help in solving my problem at this forum.
I guess I am mistaken.

#5 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 02:34 PM

power at connector P16 pins 2 & 4.


You have a bad machine control - pull the washplate and inspect the U-joint, this is a common failure with these, is very expensive to repair and you might wanna think twice about carrying on.

Link to Machine Control:  http://www.repaircli...mber=GVW9959KQ2

 


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Link to U-Joint kit:  http://www.repaircli...mber=GVW9959KQ2

 


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#6 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 02:47 PM

Thank you, kdog.
That is the kind of response I was expecting.
Is there a test to determine if the u-joint needs replacing? If it passes, I would replace the machine control board. If not, a new machine can be had for the price of the 2 (machine control board & u-joint kit).

#7 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 02:51 PM

Usually a visual is all that's required with the U-joint, it is surrounded by a rubber boot seal - if it is a white seal, you will likely find a tear in it which allows water to enter the mechanism. This is a matter of WHEN not IF, as these are a very strange mechanical assembly. Sooner or later it'll get ya - when the mechanism seizes up, it causes much load to motor which couls have caused your other issues.
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#8 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 03:15 PM

If I understand correctly, to inspect the u-joint requires disassembly of the wash tub which would require replacement of the seal.
Is there another way to inspect?

#9 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 03:16 PM

Nope- just remove the washplate and brown dome, all will be evident
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#10 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 04:23 PM

The boot seal is black and intact.
So if I replace the u-joint grommets, reassemble and replace the machine control, I should be okay?
What is part# for grommets?

#11 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 04:32 PM

You might be OK - the fact that the thermal fuse on the Motor Controller opened might be concerning - perform a resistance test on the Motor and the Pump Motor as outlined on the techsheet (test them all to ground as well).

Link to Dome seals:  http://www.repaircli...mber=GVW9959KQ2

 


00902374.jpg


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#12 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 05:32 PM

Drive motor continuity not in spec.
I guess it's new machine time!
I have my eye on a Maytag Centennial Model MVWC300XW for $359 @HomeDepot. Any suggestions or comments?



#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 06:55 PM

... Drive motor continuity not in spec.
... a Maytag Centennial Model MVWC300XW for $359 @HomeDepot. Any suggestions or comments?

1) what readings do you get ?
2) "newer" style Transmission, unknown reliablity
3) could have had this Whirlpool on sale for $249 (older legacy Transmission)
http://www.applianto...back-to-249-ea/
has been on sale every few months . . .
.

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#14 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 07:19 PM

Good choice, many in the industry refer to those machines as "Collapse-O"
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#15 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 07:32 PM

1)Drive Motor (readings by memory)
RD to BK - 2 - 4 ohms (spec) - reads - inf
YL to WH - 2 - 4 ohms (spec) - reads - 2.8
RD to YL - 5 - 7 ohms(spec) - reads - 0.5

2) aren't most new styles unknown reliability?

3) price now $323 Home Depot. $349 Lowes

Washer about 9 yrs old. One "LD" problem about 1 yr ago. Cleared with no problems till now. Thought would get more out of it. That's why thinking Maytag. Supposedly longer lasting.
But these days, who knows?

#16 kdog

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 07:41 PM

Actually the machine you have is one of those "stay away from" - if you got 9 years, it did well - you could easily spend the price of a new washer on various repairs with it (as you see by component prices). The Fermented Grand Master himself has made available to us, these Pearls of Wisdom:

http://www.applianto...ecommendations/
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#17 deke019

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 08:03 PM

Thanks again, kdog.
Will probably go with the above mentioned Maytag. Don't want to spend so much to be married to it. Almost felt that way with the Calypso because of the good history we've had.

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 01:22 AM

1) Drive Motor (readings by memory)
2) aren't most new styles unknown reliability?
3) price now $323 Home Depot. $349 Lowes
.. That's why thinking Maytag. Supposedly longer lasting.

1) that would indicate a bad Motor
2) yes, may be better to stay with the Whirlpool "Direct Drive" Transmission that has been used for more than 30 years
3) yes, still good price... free shipping and haul away .. either buy it now or wait till it's on sale again... ooops
4) Maytag is owned and built by Whirlpool (for maybe the last 20 years or more?)
your current Whirlpool Washer doesn't have the Direct Drive Transmission (some newfangled models didn't)
.

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#19 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:00 AM

Thanks again, kdog.
Will probably go with the above mentioned Maytag. Don't want to spend so much to be married to it. Almost felt that way with the Calypso because of the good history we've had.


And so we come full circle to the first reply in your topic from Brother Kurtius that you complained about:

Should have posted here FIRST, and then ordered the parts from repairclinic.com and you wouldn't be stuck with these expensive guesses, as they have a 1 year, no ? Asked return policy...
Also we would have told ya not waste your time and money on this waste of plastic and metal...one of the worst machines ever ,IMHO....


Posted Image

Some appliance brand recommendation info for your further consideration ==> Appliantology Newsletter, June 2011: Samurai’s Appliance Brand Recommendations

#20 deke019

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Posted 03 December 2011 - 03:16 PM

Yes, true, but usually just jump in feet first. And this forum didn't appear to me when first searching out info. Maybe wrong terms or too far down results list.
I know it's here now and "won't get fooled again"!





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