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WHIRLPOOL BROILER AND OVEN WON'T LIGHT - SF362LXST0


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9 replies to this topic

#1 reed

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:32 AM

My whirlpool oven, model # SF362LXST0 won't light. The oven won't ignite and neither will the broiler. I replaced the ignitor for the oven and still, nothing.
There are two loud clicks if you try to preheat the oven, but nothing else happens. There is no smell of gas. Range top works fine. Digital panel reads error code F5E1 when you hold down cancel. The internet says this is a door lock fault, but the door lock engages fine. If you push "self clean", the lock engages, and when you cancel "self clean" the lock disengages. Oven is about 5 years old.

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#2 kdog

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:37 AM

Check the resistance of the coils in the gas valve, upper to centre is broil, lower to centre is bake - if either coil is open, unit will shut down

http://www.repaircli...mber=SF362LXST0

 

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#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 07:19 AM

... If you push "self clean", the lock engages, and when you cancel "self clean" the lock disengages.

does the Door Lock Icon turn ON/OFF respectively ?

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#4 reed

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:16 AM

On the display. a green "check mark" appears over "LOCKED" when the lock mechanism engages and the mark disappears when it disengages.

#5 reed

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 04:56 PM

Check the resistance of the coils in the gas valve, upper to centre is broil, lower to centre is bake - if either coil is open, unit will shut down

http://www.repaircli...mber=SF362LXST0

 

00868657.jpg

I checked the gas safety valve with a multimeter and from bottom to middle it reads 12.9 ohms and from top to middle reads zero ohms. Volt read 129 V from top to middle and 0 from bottom to middle.
No idea what that means.
Also, I cleared the original fault and now the error reads "E2-F0 which means replace the control boards. I ordered a control board, put it in, and it still does the exact same thing; two sharp clicks and no oven or broiler lighting.
No smell of gas.
Any advice or thoughts??



#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 05:16 PM

I checked the gas safety valve with a multimeter and from bottom to middle it reads 12.9 ohms and from top to middle reads zero ohms.

Are those readings with the Gas Valve disconnected ?
Broil terminal to Common 216 Ω
Bake terminal to Common 216 Ω
( top to bottom may read 432 Ω )

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#7 reed

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 06:04 PM

Are those readings with the Gas Valve disconnected ?
Broil terminal to Common 216 Ω
Bake terminal to Common 216 Ω
( top to bottom may read 432 Ω )


Yes, I disconnected the whole gas valve from the unit and pulled off all three wires that attach.
(gas and electric turned off of course) I might have gotten the 12 and the 129 mixed...might have read 129 ohms instead of 12 ohms as reported above...either way though, the one was definitely reading out at zero.

#8 kdog

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 06:28 PM

Zero, or "Open" (infinite) ? either way, sounds like a bad valve

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#9 reed

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 09:12 AM

Zero, or "Open" (infinite) ? either way, sounds like a bad valve

Reads 0.0, but only the one reads that way.

#10 kdog

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 03:52 PM

Zero means a dead short, What does your meter read before you touch the probes to the terminals ? If it does read Zero, that could mean issues with the control circuit that controls it. :unsure:

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