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Dacor ERD30 oven does not heat

Decor ERD30 oven does not wor

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21 replies to this topic

#1 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 12:17 PM

Hello,

I need some basic help walking me through testing the ERC on my Dacor ERD30. The oven does not heat. The element has conductivity, so that's ok. I cannot understand the locations for the testing with my multimeter to check voltages, etc.

Please help.

Thanks,

Mike

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:24 PM

There's a resettable thermal overload behind the door latch assembly. It gets tripped when the reverse air flow is interrupted, like when broiling with the door cracked open. :whistling:

You get to it by disassembling from the top down. May need a burner removal tool to get the burner rings off.

#3 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:43 PM

Thanks Samurai. I found two resettable thermal overload switches there. When I press them, nothing happens. I get continuity across both --- can I now assume that's not the issue?

When I turn on the Bake feature, I get a click - click sound. Like a relay turning on and then off maybe?

I did my best to check the ERD unit with my multimeter, but I am not 100% clear on all of the points to check from the service manual. Thoughts?

THANKS!!!

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 01:56 PM

Yes, if the resettable thermostats have continuity, then they're good and not the problem. I'm mobile right now but when I get back to my desktop, I'll pull your diagram and have a look.

Have you checked the back of the main control board for a burn spot? Lots of times, there's a particular solder joint on the main relay that burns.

#5 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:01 PM

I am showing you a picture of what I believe the high temp cutoffs are. Sorry --- picture is upside down, but you can correct with a headstand. If you add the consumption of a beer to that procedure, you will get interesting results.

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#6 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:07 PM

Here is a picture of the main control board from the top. It looks ok (though dirty). Are you telling me to remove it and look at the opposite side? I will do that now....

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#7 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 02:20 PM

Attached is a bottom view of the main board. It looks ok...

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#8 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:24 PM

Hi Samurai,

Sorry to bug you but I'm going to need to put this thing back together in an hour or so and so far I have failed. Any additional leads on on what to look at greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Jackrussellterrier

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 05:27 PM

At this point, we have to verify proper power supply to the oven. Verify that you have both 120 and 240 vac to the oven. These wiring diagrams will help you do that ==> http://dl.dropbox.co...0FlowCharts.pdf

#10 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 09:43 PM

I have 120v from neutral to L1, L2, L2, L2, CVF, L2

zero voltage to CVL, DRLK, CLF

In bake mode, CVL and CLF have 120v also, but DRLK has zero.

#11 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 10:10 PM

So I notice that the element relay for L2 to BA is not closing. I have current at the red wire, but it does not cross the relay to the white wire, even when I put the oven in bake mode.

So.... relay failure? Do you agree? Would it make sense to try to replace the relay (a little out of my skill set, maybe) or buy a new board?

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:21 PM

Good work on those electrical measurements! Yes, the relay is bad. About the only downside to attempting repairing the board is that it could end up being a waste of time if it doesn't work. Other than that, there's really no downside to trying the repair. If you decide to replace the board, here's the part link ==> http://www.repaircli...delNumber=ERD30

#13 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:31 PM

I have 120v from neutral to L1, L2, L2, L2, CVF, L2
zero voltage to CVL, DRLK, CLF
In bake mode, CVL and CLF have 120v also, but DRLK has zero.

invalid tests to Neutral when measuring a 240v device

... relay for L2 to BA is not closing.
... Would it make sense to try to replace the relay (a little out of my skill set, maybe) or buy a new board?

1) test for (24v ?) DC voltage across Diode near the BA Relay when it should be ON
2) yes, if you can solder ...
.

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#14 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:43 PM

I am curious, why is the current measurement invalid when measuring across neutral? Because the neutral might be actually hot, or some other reason?

Also, where can I buy the relay? I think I will buy both --- the board and the relay (for fun).

Lastly, off topic from the board failure. Sadly, I previously knocked the blue led lights off of their perch on the backside of the stainless steel front. So I'm missing something plastic (part of the white plastic housing that holds the wires and the bulb) that will allow me to reinstall them so they show up on the outside of the stove. So as you can see in the photo, I'm missing a light. How do I fix this --- what part do I need?

THANKS!!!

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#15 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 06 December 2011 - 11:51 PM

1) if the Neutral was "hot" it would blow the House Breakers ...
The Heater Elements don't use Neutral...
If one side was correctly connected to L1, but the Relay for the L2 side was OFF,
you'd still measure 120v at each end of the Element to Neutral, which wouldn't tell you anything

2) would need to post the part numbers on the Relay

3) may be able to use some silicone glue on the lights
.

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#16 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 12:03 PM

Samuria -- do you sell the blue lights that indicate the burner is on? I did not see that on your Parts site. I did buy the Relay Circuit Board this morning.

RegUS --- Thanks for circuit sniffing info. The relay is as follows:

Omron
047-00053-02
G3P-UA-006202
Contact 30A 250VAC
0353H3

So far I have not found this relay for sale --- probably many comparable items but I don't know how to identify them.

#17 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 December 2011 - 01:48 PM


... Omron 047-00053-02 G3P-UA-006202 Contact 30A 250VAC 0353H3
... do you sell the blue lights

maybe G8P ...

http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=755763

 

00752201.jpg


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#18 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 06:32 AM

RegUS, I'm pretty sure the actual lamp isn't what is needed. That would still be OK and dropped down inside the control area somewhere.

He needs the blue light lens that pushes thru the front of the console then the actual lamp that you have referenced slides onto the portion of the lens that sticks thru the console holding the lens and lamp assembly all solidly in place.
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#19 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 08:27 AM

#10 82086 Indicator Light, Blue :kopkrab:
Posted Image
Lens may be the item included in the parts picture ?

Posted Image
.

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#20 Jackrussellterrier

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Posted 08 December 2011 - 12:05 PM

I purchased the part referenced by RegUS, and hopefully it does come with the blue lense, but because Budget is right, that's what I broke. The light part was $7 so no big deal. Thanks guys!


I'm still on the hunt for the Omron relay. I'd like to see if I can fix the relay board and have a working spare.... I bought the whole board b/c we cannot keep everyone happy without an oven for much longer...






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