Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Samsung Dryer DV448AEG -- Not Spinning

not spinning samsung

  • Please log in to reply
25 replies to this topic

#1 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 December 2011 - 02:58 PM

I own a Samsung Dryer DV448AEG. Everything appears to be working but when i go to start the drying process the unit just sits there. No spin. The LCD display DRYING. There is no error message.

Any ideas on how to fix this problem?

Thanks

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#2 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:04 PM

Samsung dryers are known for broken belts.

The idler pulley has a switch which prevents motor operation if the belt "slipped off" or is broken.

There are 2 silver screws at the rear/top cover---remove both.

Slide the top cover rearward about 1-2 inches and lift off top cover.

On the drum---you'll notice a thin belt--- grasp the belt---check that it is under tension.
If loose---the belt has slipped off the motor pulley. In many cases---the belt is so tattered that it cannot be re-used.

Post your SERIAL NUMBER for the DRUM BELT part number---and possibly a new/re-designed MOTOR PULLEY.

If the belt is fine---check for 220 volts AC at the RECEPTACLE (wall plug).

A failed THERMAL LIMITER is another possibility.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:26 PM

Samsung dryers are known for broken belts.

The idler pulley has a switch which prevents motor operation if the belt "slipped off" or is broken.

There are 2 silver screws at the rear/top cover---remove both.

Slide the top cover rearward about 1-2 inches and lift off top cover.

On the drum---you'll notice a thin belt--- grasp the belt---check that it is under tension.
If loose---the belt has slipped off the motor pulley. In many cases---the belt is so tattered that it cannot be re-used.

Post your SERIAL NUMBER for the DRUM BELT part number---and possibly a new/re-designed MOTOR PULLEY.

If the belt is fine---check for 220 volts AC at the RECEPTACLE (wall plug).

A failed THERMAL LIMITER is another possibility.


Wow nice reply. I will check this out today.

My Dryer Details:

Model: Samsung DV448AEP / XAC
Serial: W07S54BS300724

5400W, 120 / 240V, 4 Wire 60 hz, 2009.03

#4 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 December 2011 - 05:30 PM

Oh for the record i live in Canada so the outlet voltage is 120V.

chrome://dictionarytip/skin/dtipIconHover.png

#5 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:24 PM

Oh for the record i live in Canada so the outlet voltage is 120V.


Voltage is 120/240 as John mentioned
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#6 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:30 PM

Voltage is 120/240 as John mentioned


Much appreciated.

#7 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:36 PM

Wow nice reply.


Indeed, feel free to click on the "Like This" box at the lower right portion of the post
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#8 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:48 PM

Ok here are some photos of my dryer:

Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

The drum belt feels like it is properly under tension. Overall the appearance of it seems ok. Perhaps something deeper is the issue?

Where would you suggest next to identify the problem?

Thanks

#9 RegUS_PatOff

RegUS_PatOff

    Sensei

  • Academy Instructor
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 33,588 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Chief NTSC Black & White

Posted 12 December 2011 - 02:02 AM

... Where would you suggest next to identify the problem?


... A failed THERMAL LIMITER is another possibility.


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#10 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 12 December 2011 - 08:31 AM

Thanks a bunch guys.

I should point out i am not proficient with drier repairs so recognizing parts and knowing where to go is not possible for me. If you can continue to patiently walk me through the troubleshooting process that will be great.

With that said the Thermal Limiter sounds interesting. Where exactly is this located?

Thanks.

#11 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:29 PM

Busy day!

DRUM BELT on photo looks good...

Okay---have you confirmed that there's 220 volts at the wall receptacle (not 120 volts *only*) ?

Unplug dryer.

Remove the small access plate to inspect the PLUG/PIGTAIL (power cord) connection at the TERMINAL BLOCK.
No loose/burnt connections?

Next---remove (as you have already) the TOP COVER.

Standing at the front of the dryer---you'll notice that the CONTROL PANEL has screws which secure it to the top of the dryer frame.

Remove those (4) screws.

On the left/front corner---there's a silver box/case. Remove the screws from that as well. This contains the MAIN BOARD.

Pull the CONTROL PANEL towards you about 5 inches & lift straight up.

At this point you can set the CONTROL PANEL onto the top of the dryer---out of your way (as best as you can).

There are 2 low voltage wire plugs that must be detached from the MAIN BOARD. There's also a screw on the top front-frame that must be removed---this is for the green GROUND/EARTH wire. Disconnect this screw/wire and then move the entire CONTROL PANEL out of your way.

Looking at the top of the front panel of the dryer---you'll notice 4 screws. Remove those as well.

NOTE: When those screws have been removed---use care not to let the front dryer panel/cover fall down.

Pull the front panel towards you about 12 inches---disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG.

Using a MULTIMETER---verify that the DOOR SWITCH is "good" by checking for continuity (with the door in the closed position) at the connections of the DOOR SWITCH----where the *white* & *grey* wires attach to.

If no continuity---failed DOOR SWITCH.

If the DOOR SWITCH shows as being "good"...let us know :)

We'll keep troubleshooting...
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 03:00 PM

Busy day! DRUM BELT on photo looks good... Okay---have you confirmed that there's 220 volts at the wall receptacle (not 120 volts *only*) ? .....


Wow now that is a great response / troubleshoot step. I am working on it today so i will get back to you shortly. Thank you for sticking with me on this.

#13 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 06:20 PM

Okay---have you confirmed that there's 220 volts at the wall receptacle (not 120 volts *only*) ?

Unplug dryer. Remove the small access plate to inspect the PLUG/PIGTAIL (power cord) connection at the TERMINAL BLOCK. No loose/burnt connections?


UPDATE:

Yes i removed the small silver power access plate from the back of the dryer and saw 3 wires: RED, WHITE, BLACK. I used the multimeter on the RED & BLACK = 245V, RED & WHITE = 125V, WHITE & BLACK = 125V. So my understanding is the power from the outlet to the dryer is ok.

The connections here all look / feel solid and nothing burnt.

There are 2 low voltage wire plugs that must be detached from the MAIN BOARD. There's also a screw on the top front-frame that must be removed---this is for the green GROUND/EARTH wire. Disconnect this screw/wire and then move the entire CONTROL PANEL out of your way


Is the 2-low voltage wire plugs you're referring to the one marked in RED (the blue & black wire with the white caps)?

Posted Image Posted Image

The second photo is the back of the front control panel for reference.

Looking at the top of the front panel of the dryer---you'll notice 4 screws. Remove those as well.


Is this the area you're referring to -- the black plastic panel just above the dryer door? I did remove the screws from it but the panel doesnt pull out. I'm assuming if i can get this black panel off, the door switch plug will be revealed.

Posted Image

Thanks for clearing things up!

#14 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 14 December 2011 - 07:51 PM

<<<Is the 2-low voltage wire plugs you're referring to the one marked in RED (the blue & black wire with the white caps)?>>>

********

Disregard---this dryer has a *disconnect* plug behind the DISPLAY BOARD that allows unplugging the entire CONTROL PANEL for easier removal. Also---the GROUND/EARTH wire is now part of the wire harness---there's no screw to be removed from the silver frame.


********

<<<Is this the area you're referring to -- the black plastic panel just above the dryer door? I did remove the screws from it but the panel doesnt pull out. I'm assuming if i can get this black panel off, the door switch plug will be revealed.>>>

********

Yes---on this model---after removing the front panel screws---the front panel is still held in place by 2 metal tabs that need to be *bent* downward to release the front panel/cover.
You'll see the plug connection to the DOOR SWITCH. Test the switch for continuity.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 11:08 PM

Ahhh ok, That all makes sense.

I tried pressing down on the silver metal tabs along the frame (on the top of the front black plating just above the dryer door). The dark front piece did give!! however it appears connected to the platinum frame laying behind it:

Posted Image

The entire piece (black front frame and platinum backing) moves as one. Trying to peer between them reveals a screw keeping them together. When i tried to move the entire assembly out away from the fixed silver dryer side it seems the entire front face of the dryer wants to come off but is held in place by clamps at the dryer's foot:

Posted Image

Trying to fish the door switch wiring between the fixed metal side and the released piece is difficult as it seems the front face is dangerously close to snapping. It seems i will have to release the entire front face of the dryer from these bottom clamps. Any ideas on how to do this?

Or perhaps an easy way to fish and test the door switch considering my situation?

Thanks

#16 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 14 December 2011 - 11:22 PM

quantass---I neglected to mention that---the door must be opened and 2 screws at/near the LINT FILTER HOUSING must also be removed... :bangin:
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 14 December 2011 - 11:45 PM

Hey the 2 screws near the filter, as you stated, was the trick. THANK YOU. I never would have guessed.

I was able to remove the front panel and am looking at the white connector. I removed the white plug and am looking at the white socket.

Forgive me ignorance. To test continuity, do i set the multimeter to 200V, alternating, and stick the RED and BLACK ends into the socket fixed to the door THEN try opening the door to see if a voltage reading is obtained?

Thanks.

#18 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 15 December 2011 - 12:08 AM

Dryer should remain unplugged.

On a typical digital multimeter---there's a symbol of---what looks like---an Airbus Concorde jet.

In this setting---the meter will use it's (usually 9 volt) battery to complete a circuit when the *black* and *red* test leads are used.

In this case---we want to put (in no particular order,really) the *black* test probe on the DOOR SWITCH pin where the GREY wire of the plug connects.

Place the *red* test probe on the terminal of the DOOR SWITCH where WHITE wire connects to the switch.

NOTE: The DOOR SWITCH plug should be disconnected during this test.

If the DOOR SWITCH is "good"---the meter reading should show a value of "0" (with the door *closed*)

If the DOOR SWITCH is "bad"---the meter reading will show a value of "1" (with the door *closed*)

Edited by john63, 15 December 2011 - 12:09 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#19 quantass

quantass

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 13 posts

Posted 15 December 2011 - 12:08 AM

Ok i think i figured it out. I set my multimeter to OHMS and placed the BLACK end in the fixed door white socket's COM and the RED end on the white socket's NO or NC. The multimeter read 1 when i touched nothing.

When i had the door closed the COM-NC showed a (1) on the multimeter. When i opened the door the COM-NC spiked and then leveled off at 0.00.

I moved the RED wire to the NO position on the fixed white socket. When the door was open the multimeter remained at 1. When i closed the door the multimeter spiked and leveled off at 0.00.

I hope i explained this correctly. I'm new to multimeters and electronics.

If i had to guess it seems the continuity of the door opening / closing as tested from the fixed white socket on the doorway seems ok.

I should point out before we dismantled this dryer, when we went to run it the unit would START fine and you can hear some buzzing coming from the lower back end of the dryer as if the motor is trying to start but cant move.

#20 john63

john63

    Dean of LG Appliantology

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,152 posts
  • Location: USA

Posted 15 December 2011 - 12:17 AM

I should point out before we dismantled this dryer, when we went to run it the unit would START fine and you can hear some buzzing coming from the lower back end of the dryer as if the motor is trying to start but cant move.>>>

************

Whoa! :)

That's a whole different animal!

Unplug the DOOR SWITCH & remove the front panel of the dryer by lifting up about an inch or so.

With a good light---inspect the BLOWER WHEEL (Lower-Left-Front) for a piece of clothing or other debris that may be preventing the MOTOR from starting.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics