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BobMcNoodlie

Flummoxed about Whirlpool Duet Dryer GEW9250PW0. Just won't run..

17 posts in this topic

So everything lights up normally, but the dryer does not start drying. I got the Tech Sheet out and turned on diagnostic mode. Everything lights up and responds normally. Looking online, I get the feeling it is either the door sensor or moisture sensor.

To test the door switch, it says to put in diagnostic mode, open door, and it will beep and a software version displays. Excellent! Looking good.

Then I go to check the moisture sensor. It says that if the exact same thing happens, then there is a short circuit in the moisture sensor system. Huh? So which is it?

And when I bridge the moisture sensor, it does beep. So seems like that is working.

Kinda stuck here. As a mechanical buffoon, I am trying to avoid taking everything apart and using my new multimeter for the first time. We even had a craigslist appliance repair dude who gave up.

Any direction is greatly appreciated.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Does it run at all? I mean - does the drum turn?

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No. The drum does not turn. But the machine acts normal in the sense that it lets me choose a cycle, displays minutes remaining, makes beeps and relay clicks like you would expect. Nothing happens though.

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Check the dryer thermal fuse on the blower housing. It is the white one on the left. The one on the right is the thermister. Should have full continuity. If not replace ... and then check to see if your heating element is grounded and check your venting from blockage.

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Does the motor start at all or running and not tumbling?

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1) Took the two wires off the fuse and twisted them together to check to see if the fuse was bad. Still did not start up.

2) Not sure how to check if heating element is grounded or not. Will search.

3) Vent not blocked as dryer is completed pulled out to work on and not connected to vent at all. Checked opening for obstruction and saw none.

Does the motor start at all or running and not tumbling?

Motor does not start at all.

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How's the Belt and the Belt Switch ?

Test for 120v from each side of the white Thermal fuse to chassis (ground)

while someone pushes the Start Switch

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How's the Belt and the Belt Switch ?

Test for 120v from each side of the white Thermal fuse to chassis (ground)

while someone pushes the Start Switch

Well. I found my meter but not the probes. So this will have to wait until tomorrow.

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you can bypass the belt switch just like you did with the thermal fuse.

Next make a jumper wire and jump from P1-5 to P1-4 (L1 to motor)

on the main board...if it fires up them you have a bad board.

1192077693_D9BTL-M.png

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How's the Belt and the Belt Switch ?

Test for 120v from each side of the white Thermal fuse to chassis (ground)

while someone pushes the Start Switch

I do hear a click when I press Start.

you can bypass the belt switch just like you did with the thermal fuse.

Next make a jumper wire and jump from P1-2 to P1-4 (neutral to motor)

on the main board...if it fires up them you have a bad board.

If it is the main board, I am screwed. That part is $250 to $275.

This brings up another point. Who makes a dependable washer anymore? Dang things only last a few years.

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... Next make a jumper wire and jump from P1-2 to P1-4 (neutral to motor)

:woot:

I don't think so ...

should be jumper L1 (P1-5) to Motor P1-4

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in my opinion LG and Samsug have the best front loaders. If you wanting to revert back to a top loader the Whirlpool VMW is a good design.

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:woot:

I don't think so ...

should be jumper L1 (P1-5) to Motor P1-4

CRAP ! Glad you caught that Reg. Not sure WTF I was thinkin !!!!

Guess i've been under tooooooo much stress lately!!!

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If you checked the thermal fuse on the blower housing then look at the belt see if it is broken (did you dry shoes in it) if not check the belt switch. Board is the last thing It would check..

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If you checked the thermal fuse on the blower housing then look at the belt see if it is broken (did you dry shoes in it) if not check the belt switch. Board is the last thing It would check..

The way I read it, he already did this.

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While you are testing verify your door switch. You can check P1-3 to P1-5 for 120 volts with the door closed.

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Get yourself a working meter, with leads...

1st, verify you have the proper voltages at the dryer terminal block. 120 VAC from L1 to N, 120VAC L2 to N, 240 VAC L1 to L2. Visually inspect the wires to see if they are charred or burned.

Take the top off and examine the control board for burns or heat damage.

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