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Stove controls dead - Frigidaire FEFL79HSA

oven frigidaire

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13 replies to this topic

#1 ggibeau

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 09:40 PM

3 - 4 yr old flat top stove. Came home tonight and noticed the back panel oven controls/clock screen was dark (also no oven light when you open the door). Top burners work just fine. Oven worked fine yesterday. No power outages have occurred.

Not sure where to start looking - but it almost seems to be a fuse or something (especially the oven light does not come on)

Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks very much in advance for any help.

-George-

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 10:06 PM

... Top burners work just fine.

do the Top Burner Indicator Light work OK ?
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#3 ggibeau

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 10:21 PM

Yes - top burner lights work just fine on all 4 burners as well as "top is still warm" warning light.

George

#4 certified tech group 51

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Posted 15 December 2011 - 11:06 PM

Without a wire diagram to check, ( wire schematic will be attached to the rear of the back guard ).........I would pull the unit out from the wall and pull the plug , remove the back guard panel and the lower rear panel....Are all of the wires intact..........You will be looking for one of the L1 or L2 wires........ All O.K.??? ..................... What does the serial number start with .......... NF ??

#5 ggibeau

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 01:04 AM

Will pull it out tomorrow and take a look at the wires.

Serial number starts with VF.

Thanks

George

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 06:55 AM

If the Top Burners work, then L1 & L2 are OK
If the Indicator lights work, then Neutral is OK
Oven Light is powered by the Controller
Have you used Self-Clean lately ? :nono:
May be a bad Controller
316519914.pdf
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#7 certified tech group 51

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 11:21 AM

RegU.S. you are kinda correct...the L1 and L2 wires for the surface elements are before the OCU..... There is a slim chance a L1/L2 wire has parted at a connector point after the element connections. ( I have seen evidence of rats that chewed thru L1/L2 wire but no fried rat { item #23 on menu} ) ....... Or a burnt terminal at the OCU...... But it is a Frigidaire, so I will go along with that it is the OCU......................... OCU p/n 316418707 ..$ 192.00 clams in this neck of the woods... But no membrane/overlay ................ p/n 316419705 $ 10 clams..........................P.S. thanks for the tech sheet.... :imnotworthy:

Edited by certified tech group 51, 17 December 2011 - 12:13 PM.


#8 ggibeau

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 08:10 PM

have never run the self cleaning option.

Thanks for all the feedback - will take it apart tomorrow morning (arrived home to late and tired to do it tonight).

#9 ggibeau

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 10:25 PM

This is the 2nd stove that we have had go bad in 10 years. My wife does a lot (and I mean a LOT) of baking, and the last one I had to replace the control board about 3 times, and not this one. What would be some good recommendations for a flat top stove that has a oven that won;t wimp out after 4-5 years of heavy use?

Hopefully I will find out it is something simple when I take it apart - but the control board goes for about $175 - and we might look at just getting yet another new one (sigh)

Thanks

George

#10 ggibeau

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 11:24 AM

pulled unit out from wall - removed back covers.

No obvious charred, loose or chewed wires. removed and reconnected all wires - removed OCU and inspected - no bulging caps, no char, nothing obvious.

Sheesh - I really think they build these things any more assuming no one actually uses the oven or actually cooks any more ;-). My wife's mothers stove (in Romania) is over 50 years old and still going strong - we can;t seem to get ours to last more than 5 years.

Thanks for all the hints.

Edited by ggibeau, 17 December 2011 - 11:24 AM.


#11 ggibeau

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Posted 19 December 2011 - 03:07 PM

ordered the EOC from the linked site (Appliancepartspros.com) - they got it back in stock - - will keep fingers crossed that this fixes the issue.

thanks for everyone's help - much appreciated.

#12 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 03:56 AM

Part link for the EOC ==> Clock control board

#13 certified tech group 51

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Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:29 AM

I did not see if you ordered a new keypad/membrane.....It will hard/easy to remove/reuse the old one......OR you could try this, use a new keypad with your new OCU.....keep your old OCU and old keypad in one piece, and send it out to be repaired..I.E. fixyourboard... that way you will have a refurbished board on hand , ready to go with in the hour ..( with all the cooking your wife does :thumbsup: ) .....Plus.............( if they still have it ) ..............one year warranty on the replaced parts....which is probably the same pieces on the board that keep failing to begin with.......

#14 ggibeau

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Posted 22 December 2011 - 08:49 AM

Was able to get the old keypad membrane off with a hair dryer and patience :-) - came off perfect - installed new OCU - everything works like a charm.

Thanks to all for their help.

George





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