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Need Help With Part Numbers: Samsung WF328AAW/XAA-02

Samsung WF328AAW PCB Motor OE BE

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14 replies to this topic

#1 Perk

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 12:29 PM

New member here, first things first. Thanks in advance for your help and Happy Holidays to all of you.

My Samsung front load washer hit the 2 year mark and I got an OE error. Seemed simple enough to fix. Defineatly not over full, pump would run continously and there defineatly wasn't any water in the drum. Pulled the tube off the level sensor and stuck it in a glass of water. Dumped a pitcher of water in the drum and a big air bubble appeared in the glass of water. And the pump pumped the water out no problem.

So I knew it was the level sensor or the main controller pcb. Ordered them both. I actually tried to ohm out the level sensor but it is not an on/off type of switch. It has 2 capacitors and a slug connected to the diaphram so the sensor is some type of variable capacitance circuit. Anyway, the sensor was not the issue, it was the main controller pcb. Installed the new pcb and OE goes away. This was Thanksgiving week so I thought I had just saved the day (lots of family headed my way).

Started a load and within 10 minutes I get a BE error. Motor smells really not, touched the stator houseing it was really really hot. No motor issues before the new controller went in so I am suspecting the motor control part of the pcb was not compatable with my motor. Tried to run a test on the motor and got 3E after a while. Drum visible was turning erraticly and seemed to be laboring. So I ordered the motor (all from Sears Parts Direct). Sure enough, motor comes in and it is different than mine. 2x the number of magnets and the drive shaft for the drum will not fit into the motor.

I found a link on the net that came from this forum which mentioned that the parts have to be cross referenced for this model to the serial number because there have been 3 design changes during the manufacturing of this sweet little unit...

So what I need is the correct control PCB and motor part numbers. My model and serial numbers are wf328aawxaa-02 and W01F54ASA02665T.

The main pcb that was sent to me was MFS-WF318A-TO. The motor was DC31-00049A. The motor is defineatly not the right part and I highly suspect the controller is not either.

I am 99% sure that the correct motor for mine is DC96-01218D (from looking at pics).

I am have completely had it with this whole mess. I called the parts number for Samsung and they will not tell me what the correct part numbers for my unit are. Sears says they do not have the ability to find out either. They just keep insisting that the parts they sent are the correct ones. When I ask them if they are the correct parts then why won't the motor fit over the drive shaft they can't explain it but still argue that it has to be the correct part.

Ok, hope I did not bore you to much with my long winded story but I wanted to make sure you had all of the info necessary to help out. I really appreciate your help and wish you a great holiday season.

Cheers,
Chris

PS To top it all off, I had to go and buy a new washing machine before my family made it to town for the holidays.

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#2 Comstock_Services

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 01:30 PM

So your motor does not look like this? http://www.repaircli...100049A/2068294
Maybe I'm kinda dense, but they look the same to me. http://www.repaircli...601218D/2027840

Control are you talking about is it the one on the front? or the behind the pannel thats on the front?

http://www.repaircli...ES-AG3MOD-S2-== I get this for the controls. and this for the other control, http://www.repaircli...F318AT0/2001646

Edited by Comstock_Services, 23 December 2011 - 01:41 PM.

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#3 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 08:32 PM

I called the parts number for Samsung and they will not tell me what the correct part numbers for my unit are. Sears says they do not have the ability to find out either. They just keep insisting that the parts they sent are the correct ones. When I ask them if they are the correct parts then why won't the motor fit over the drive shaft they can't explain it but still argue that it has to be the correct part.


Not sure if they are correct about your parts but I have had the same problems with Samsung fridges to the point that I now refuse to work on them.

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www.DurhamApplianceThrift.com


#4 kdog

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 09:06 PM

I have had similar issues in the past and given part numbers that were embedded in the peices that seemed to fit their numbering process - only to be told - "oh- you can't go by that number". Wonder why they mould that number in there then ........
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#5 john63

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Posted 23 December 2011 - 09:47 PM

This was a *mess* on Samsung's part.

There are (at last count) four different WF328 washers.

Most of the changes were normal production changes (new features or options) on the 2nd thru 4th iterations.

The biggest discrepancy is between the original WF328 and the three that followed.

As you may have discovered in an older post---Samsung's first WF328 had the most *robust* components---to impress Consumer Reports.

Once the rave reviews were published---the MOTOR size was reduced---along with several other components--such as the shaft diameter of the tub.

Beginning January 2011---Samsung has shifted much of the national service---to SEARS.
This is only recently beginning to unravel---as Sears is in dire financial straits.
During this time---we have been (and currently remain) "deactivated" but not terminated as an authorized service center.
Our status as an active servicer appears to be changing back to "active"---but that's another story altogether.
As such---I currently do not have access to Samsung's password-restricted website and therefore not able to provide you with the correct part numbers needed for your washer.
I'd suggest contacting Samsung's Parts Dept at : 1-800-634-8276
This number is different than the customer service number that you problably used (1-800-762-7864).
Judging from your description of the *original* problem in your post...

The first symptom was an "OE" error---this is---in most cases a failed WATER LEVEL SENSOR.
A restriction/blockage in the small black tube can also cause an "OE" error.
Additionally---using the incorrect type of detergent (or too much of the correct detergent) can also cause LONG DRAIN MOTOR RUN TIME.
Usually the TIME DISPLAYED will show "7 MINUTES REMAINING" (for a lot longer than 7 minutes).
This is caused by suds entering the small black tube---causing the WATER LEVEL SENSOR to "think" there's still water remaining in the tub---pump motor runs continuously.

After replacing the MAIN BOARD---a set of errors occurred---"bE" and "3E".
This is very likely due to an incorrect MAIN BOARD.
The MOTOR shipped to you was also incorrect---and is most likely intended for the *original* WF328 model---which means the MAIN BOARD is also incorrect.

bE====> Motor Hall Sensor out of range

3E====> Over-current detected
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 Perk

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 10:47 AM

Thanks for your help all.

Raving - look closely at the pics of those two motors. You can see there are 2x the number of magnets on the first motor you listed. Also, it is made for a smaller drive shaft. They are definitely differnet, but it is a lot easier to see when you have them both in front of you.

Senpai - all of what you said is dead on. So I am crossing my fingers that the number you gave me is going to work. I was given a number by Samsung customer service to call for parts but they were just a distributor for them. When I called that number they really tried to help but had no abilitity to cross reference serial numbers to model numbers. The part numbers they had were the same ones that Sears was giving me.

I'll give the 8276 number a shot and see if they can help.

Thanks and Merry Christmas to you all,
Chris

#7 john63

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 12:12 PM

Try the original components again.

Since *suds* is a fairly common cause of the "OE" error---especially if the display stalled at "7 MINUTES REMAINING" for a long period of time.

Disconnect the small black tube from the WATER LEVEL SENSOR---blow through it/clear it/re-connect---and run a test cycle.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Perk

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 11:22 AM

Defineatly was not suds, tube disconnected still gave the error immediately on power up. As soon as I installed the new main pcb, the OE error went away immediately. Unfortuneatly I do not have the original main pcb anymore. I threw it in the garbage as soon as I saw the new one resolved the OE error. Sure would like to have it to see if I could find a part number on it.

#9 TopperHarley

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 12:04 PM

Perk,

I am in much the same situation as you, and think we may be able to help each other out. I have been trying to fix my WF328AAW for over a year. It is an April 2008 build, which I believe is the first run before they started making changes. I have a bad hall effect sensor that I need to replace and at this point I would rather ram my head into a brick wall repeatedly than speak to the parts people. I was about to junk an otherwise pristine washer.

Long story short, I have a brand new complete motor Part# DC96-01218 sitting here I can't use. It has the larger shaft size and the replaceable hall effect sensor (2 screws holding it on the stator). It is too big to fit on the shaft for my washer. I believe you have the motor I need with the smaller shaft size and the permanently attached hall effect sensor.

PM me if you are interested in a trade.


~Topper

Edited by TopperHarley, 30 December 2011 - 12:10 PM.


#10 kdog

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 07:55 PM

Please note that users with Grasshopper Status cannot P/M B)
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#11 Perk

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Posted 02 January 2012 - 05:50 PM

Topper, I sent that motor back to Sears. I called the number given above and the Samsung person that I spoke with helped me out and he seems to know exactly what he is talking about. We will see. I am currently waiting for refunds on all of the parts I am returning so I can order the correct parts here.

Cheers,
Chris

#12 TopperHarley

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 09:55 PM

Perk, good luck with the returns. Let me know if you get yours figured out.

I ordered a new motor and installed today. Still did not fix my problem. I checked the Pin Resistances and I'm getting the 11.6 Ohms between all of them indicating that the Hall Sensor is good. When I try to run a spin cycle, the motor jerks a few inches then stops. It does this several times, then flags an E3 code. The only info the book has for an E3 is "Motor is not running properly". Geee... really? Thanks Samsung. If I'm not mistaken, the only thing left is the circuit board. But there is the main board, and then there's another little circuit board attached to the back of the washer (MES-AG3MOD-S2). Is there any way to tell which one I need to replace?

#13 john63

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Posted 10 January 2012 - 10:16 PM

<<<an E3 code>>>

**********

This is an error that can be caused by more than one type of fault.

Generally---it's best to test/rule-out the HALL EFFECT SENSOR and the MOTOR.

Inspect the plug connections for clean/tight connections.

If those test "good"---the MAIN BOARD should be replaced.

**********************

<<<there's another little circuit board attached to the back of the washer (MES-AG3MOD-S2)>>>

**********************

That is the ELECTRICAL NOISE FILTER and is not at fault/defective.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 TopperHarley

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 10:18 PM

Thanks John. I put the new main board on and it works perfect now. Gave it to my parents as they needed a new washer and I had replaced this one a while back.

#15 john63

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 11:09 PM

Good job :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Samsung, WF328AAW, PCB, Motor, OE, BE

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