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Kenmore dryer shutting off Md 970-C85092

Shutting off after a few minu

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13 replies to this topic

#1 Garpy

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 05:20 PM

The model number I have given may not be exact as it's badly worn. It's a frigidaire made dryer.
The problem is it will run for a few minutes and simply shut off with a loud beep lasting about 4 seconds. During a rear bearing replacement, I completely took it apart and brushed and vacuumed ALL the dust out from blades through to exhaust exit.
While dryer is running empty to test. It operates from about 110f to 139F on normal (tested using a digital thermometer at the exhaust exit.) It would not appear to overheating. After it shuts off, I can immediately start it again (no waiting) It does not give any error codes to help determine the problem. The screen just goes black. The only light on at all is the "clean lint filter light" One clue maybe is that the clean lint filter light is always on. I did clean all the sensors of dust and any fabric sheet residue in case that was the problem.

Lastly. The manual states how to put it into diagnostic mode to test but I don't understand the part about " Put the rotory dial into the 12:00 oclock position" or 3:00 or 2:00. How would I determine where 12:00 etc is?

Hope someone can help me with this one. I'm a retired serviceman who now fixes appliance in my garage for resale to low income families but the newer digital stuff is proving to be a little difficult.

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#2 jumptrout

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 05:42 PM

Your exhaust heat should from 130 to 170 degrees.
Run the dryer on timed dry and report what happens.

#3 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 06:23 PM

... How would I determine where 12:00 etc is?

...newfangled digital clock generation ... :teehee:

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#4 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 24 December 2011 - 06:25 PM

Let's try the inexpensive stuff first. Does this happen with vent hose off? Possibly (we hope as it is cheap) High limit thermostat tripping early and by the time you hit the button to turn machine on may have dropped a few degrees to enable it to reset. It wouldn't be the thermal limiter as that does not reset itself (i am assuming the thermal limiter is the "thermal cutoff"). I also wouldn't think it is the cycling therm since it usually will not cut the machine off. could also be a grounding element that expands and grounds itself then retracts when a bit cooler. I doubt the latter though. But cheap to check out.

Yes 12 oclock would be with the indicator on the dial pointing straight up. Two oclock would be with indicator at the 2 oclock position on your clock

Edited by DurhamAppliance, 24 December 2011 - 06:28 PM.

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#5 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 06:45 AM

Your exhaust heat should from 130 to 170 degrees.
Run the dryer on timed dry and report what happens.


Jumptrout, Not on Frigidaires, most of the friggy dryers run a L135 t-stat and you will usually only see a high temp of around 140 - 145 tops.

I believe Garpy's problem with setting the dial to the 12 o'clock position is another confusion caused by Frikadaire, (I'm sure Garpy is well aware of how to tell time and were 12 o'clock would be). The problem is Frigidaire gives you a dryer dial that can be turned 360 degrees with no stops with load settings all the way around the dial, (how the hell do you know what one of those settings should be pointing to the 12 o'clock or any other position when they just say turn the dial to the 12 o'clock position).

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 25 December 2011 - 06:46 AM.

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#6 nickfixit

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 08:14 AM

Frigidaires are know for several problems...

1. Often you can not get them into diagnostic mode, even when the machine is working properly.

2. The tech sheets are sometimes wrong about how to get them into diagnostic mode, you keep trying different keys untill you luck into it, maybe.

3. Replacing the thermister can cure many abnormal situations

4. If your AC outlet is loose/worn you will get exactly what you describe.
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#7 Garpy

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Posted 25 December 2011 - 09:31 AM

Jumptrout, Not on Frigidaires, most of the friggy dryers run a L135 t-stat and you will usually only see a high temp of around 140 - 145 tops.

I believe Garpy's problem with setting the dial to the 12 o'clock position is another confusion caused by Frikadaire, (I'm sure Garpy is well aware of how to tell time and were 12 o'clock would be). The problem is Frigidaire gives you a dryer dial that can be turned 360 degrees with no stops with load settings all the way around the dial, (how the hell do you know what one of those settings should be pointing to the 12 o'clock or any other position when they just say turn the dial to the 12 o'clock position).


Budget Appliance Repair is exactly correct about the dial positioning. There is now way to determine what is 12:00 oclock position
Nickfixit suggestion about loose ac outlet would not apply as I use a custom made "clamp" instead of an outlet (it can't NOT work)
Anyway. I took it apart again to see if I missed anything. I didn't, I tested it again in TIMED dry on high and it appears to work fine Low 132F to 152F and counts down time correctly. Normal setting 126F to 146F again tested at the exhaust outlet with no hose and running empty.
The machine just shuts off after a few minutes with NO error code. I tested the control thermistor as per the stated testing procedure and it is correct (well within the +/- 10%) It would help if the machine at least gave an error code. The ONLY thing that seems out of place is that the "clean Lint Filter" light is always on. even during the timed cycle setting which works fine. I'm leaning towards the control board being faulty but I don't want to change something if I cant prove it. The only other info I can give is Draw is 18.8 amps on heat side and 21.3 amps on motor/heat side

#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 04:52 AM

All the amp draws look good.

The clean filter light is just a reminder light, it doesn't really know if the filter is clogged or not.

Make sure all parts of the door switch are working OK, I believe the check filter light should clear when you open and close the door to start a new load, (or something like that).
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#9 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 07:46 AM

Just saw the type of dial in the operating manual. There is no 12 oclock position. Frigidaire is dumber than I thought. That's one reason we pick up dryers made by certain manufacturers and repair them in the shop. Because of the inherent dangerous nature of dryers and the stupidity of many manufacturers, we rather repair them in a controlled environment for safety reasons (last repairman to touch a dryer that burned down a house will always be blamed, even if he did not cause it) and to prevent a customer for seeing the "what the hell?" look on our faces.

I'm leaning towards the control board being faulty but I don't want to change something if I cant prove it.



Usually if no proof of a problem can be found..it's the board. The great thing is if you get it from repairclinic, you can test it out and return it if it doesn't fix the problem. I understand the desire to know exactly what is going on with a machine. That's the sign of a true professional. However, to figure many machines/boards out you have to understand what is going on inside the minds of the designer/engineer who created it. Getting inside such a mind can lead you to the edge of an abyss. Therefore, I've learned on some occasions it's best to get the part, slap it in and if it works, be done with it.

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#10 nickfixit

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 11:55 AM

It's the same with thermisters, you check them and they read within normal ranges. But, under load you get a split second of "out of range" function, the dryer shuts off and you have no clue what happened. Many a person has ordered a board for these and it didn't fix the problem until they replaced the thermister.
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#11 DurhamAppliance

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 01:47 PM

It's the same with thermisters, you check them and they read within normal ranges. But, under load you get a split second of "out of range" function, the dryer shuts off and you have no clue what happened. Many a person has ordered a board for these and it didn't fix the problem until they replaced the thermister.


I would agree. Although not aware of the split second problem, I am a proponent of changing inexpensive parts first. Thermistors are cheap and replacing them is a good idea anyway. I always do this when it comes to fridges, might as well adopt this for all appliances. Thermistors are generally cheaply made and subject to deterioration from moisture and heat. Since these modern appliances rely so heavily upon them, I'm amazed that they are not placed in a location and manner where they can be changed like a light bulb. I guess this leads me back to the stupidity of the designers/engineers.

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#12 telefunkenu47

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Posted 26 December 2011 - 02:35 PM

Had the same thing last fall. replaced thermistor 1st off. callback later, ended up replacing the board, either it resolved the problem or the cust is convinced I am a dub and never called back. Dontcha love it! Also have run into whirlpoo/kenmore dryers doing the same thing, the thermal fuses cut out only partially under load and shut off the motor. Dont replace the motors on these until you replace the thermal fuse.
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#13 Garpy

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 01:19 PM

Well Thanks to all for the help.
I will replace the thermistor and see how that goes. If that doesn't work, I'll then decide what to do. As I rebuild appliances ONLY for sale to low income families I need to really keep the costs down. This one might turn out to be a scrapper.

Again. Thanks everyone

#14 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 08:27 AM

Thermistor part link ==> http://www.repaircli...4587700/1156925




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