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Kenmore 90 Series Washer M/N 110.22922100 won't spin without 'help'

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My Kemore 90 Series washer will do everything but spin, and when it does it doesn't spin as hard as it used to. I can activate the lid switch and manually start the spinning and it will go. Sometimes if I run it through the spin cycle again, it will go on its own that time. I have reduced the size of the loads, thinking that may be the problem, but it hasn't helped.

Any help on pinpointing the offending part(s) would be greatly appreciated.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Sounds like the clutch is warn out and it is slipping more then it should... Its not a hard just you have to drop the transmission out of the bottom the clutch is on top of it... Me its a 20 minute job but I have done hundreds of them...

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while you're in there check the top seal of the transmission, as thats a common leak point, and a great way to get oil in the clutch. Oil in the clutch is bad.P0103192-00004.pngpart number 5 is the clutch. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Clutch-Assembly/285785/2670?modelNumber=110.22922100

Edited by Comstock_Services

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Should the transmission just be replaced along with the clutch or only if there is a leak found?

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Clutch is a strong suspect but the drive block can cause this, too. Here's an excerpt from my seminal tome on diagnosing spin and agitate problems in these machines (which includes information on checking/replacing the drive block):

The Hand Test for the Clutch

If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test.

WARNING: This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.

- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid

- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand

- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin

- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand

- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.

The Clutch Eyeball Test

The Eyeball Test is less risky than the Hand Test but requires lots more time and mechanical fiddling. It’s not as comprehensive as the Hand Test because it only checks for one particular defect with the clutch. But it’s included here for your edification.

Use a pair of pliers to compress the spring of the clutch ring and remove it from the drum. Inspect the rivet holes that hold the pads to the ring. If these holes are packed with debris, then change the clutch. When a clutch is slipping, as well as any other frictional surface, it will develop a glazed look to it which will reflect light and look glossy, just like a lawnmower belt or washer drive belt that has been slipping. This can cause for a burnt rubber or plastic smell.

You don’t need to remove the outer tub to inspect the clutch drum and ring; all you need to do is remove just the gear case. This saves lots of time and headache and keeps the water seals intact and undisturbed.

Part link ==> clutch kit

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Thanks for that link Boss, learn something new everyday. :woot:

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