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CM302US Thermador Double Oven F34/64 Problems

Thermador F34/64

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9 replies to this topic

#1 RussTech

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:17 PM

Okay. Im working on one of these. Original problem was the upper oven throwing F34. Tried reset. Tested out air paddle microswitchs. One of the switches tested flaky for me. Cust wanted to change out the fan also. I come back to reinstall the fan and switches. Cust informs me now that the bottom oven is malfunctioning and wants the lower oven fan changed out. I order parts, return, install and test. Tests fine.

On christmas eve, cust calls me and informs upper oven is throwing the same error code. I go out and check the air paddle switches. Both still fine. Fan air flow fine. Still throwing F34 on the upper oven. Before it does though, it does manage to pre heat a tiny bit. Maybe like the 5th or 6th try after messing with the switches, it doesn't throw the error code. Heats up just fine. Its already sitting at some higher then ambient temp though.

So, can anyone tell me if the microswitch's connect to the clock or to the relay board? Im guessing its one of those thats bad, because everything else is brand new! The wiring diagram wasnt in the oven, and Im having a hell of a time finding service info for it.

Im going to go back and trace wires, Im just trying to do ALL my homework. This is what I get for trusting error codes!

It seems like to me, that you can order individual relays for the relay board from thermador. Any info at all is appreciated.

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#2 RussTech

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 07:21 PM

And btw, after it cooled down, it started throwing the F34 error code again.

#3 RussTech

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 09:25 PM

So, I have it all figured out. Can I delete this topic now please?

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 27 December 2011 - 09:46 PM

So, I have it all figured out. Can I delete this topic now please?

better yet, leave this topic here, and post the solution ...
I do have some CM302US stuff, but previously, I was eating at Wendy's and they don't allow access to my files at mediafire.com :(
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#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:31 AM

Post the repair so others can benefit from it!

PMed you the training manual for this range.

#6 RussTech

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Posted 28 December 2011 - 09:24 PM

I haven't been back yet. Ill be back on thurs or fri. Im thinking the upper oven problems are either being caused by loose connection to display, or broken solder joints on p5 on the display according to the diagram, p6 according to the troubleshooting. Also, theres an air switch on the top oven m/w fan witch thats wired in series with the left bottom air switch, So, if all my switches are good, and all my circuits are good, and my solder on the board is good, yada yada. Then the board is bad.

I never realized there was an air switch on the micro cooling fan.

So, when I go back, Ill find out and let you guys know.

Edited by RussTech, 28 December 2011 - 09:27 PM.


#7 RussTech

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 02:40 AM

Im going back to this tomorrow. I dont have my dolly yet. But Ill figure something out. Anyways. Thanks for the service manual, it really is a lifesaver. Ill let you guys know what happens.

#8 RussTech

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 09:43 PM

I went back on this today. Started cold, erred out. checked air paddle on micro fan tested good. Solder points looked good but I wasnt able to get the best look at them. Display is hard to get off. Tried running again. Erred out. Connections on m/w air paddle seemed loose. Crimped em on tight. Tryed running again. Ran fine.

Still though, at a higher then ambient temp. And the m/w air paddle connections were not that loose. I waited 30 mins with the oven door open, and tried again. Ran fine. Im still suspicious though.

I did not test for 18vac to 24vac running too the switches. I have no excuse.

#9 RussTech

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:16 PM

I got to visit this sweetheart for one last battle. My customers dont cook very much apparently. Anyways, pulled her all the way out. Tested voltage on the airswitch circuit. Voltage was good. Jumped out the airswitch circuit. Oven ran fine. Finally had good access to the M/W airswitch. Tested flaky! Replaced. Ran fine. Finally!

Lesson learned. If you replace one microswitch on a super expensive oven, replace em all! 3 out of 3 were bad on this guy. 1 entirely, 2 flaky. They worked, it just wasnt steady.

Im going back on friday to work on this Viking Downdraft vent hood that they have. And Ill retest everything on the thermador. But Im pretty sure I got her.

#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 11 January 2012 - 10:38 PM

Outstanding job superbly executed, Brother RussTech! And mucho domos for sharing the details of the repair. This is great wisdom, indeed, on the microswitches, especially since they're all right there in the same neighborhood.





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