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QHarjo

Maytag Washer PAVT444AWW: clothes still wringing wet after spin.

11 posts in this topic

Hello,

My washer recently began leaving clothes wet after the spin cycle. The water is draining, and it is spinning, just apparently not fast enough to get all the water out of the clothes. We've been running smaller loads than normal to see if this helps the situation, but no dice. The water pump has recently been replaced, along with the drive belt. I've read that a slow spin might be because of a bad clutch, but I haven't seen a clutch in the parts diagrams of this model.

Any help at all would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

On a Maytag its called a thrust bearing kit.. First thing I would check if something it stuck in the tub top... The tub top is the the white part around the top of the washer tub You see it when you open the lid.. Look for the space between the tub and the basket.... This is the thrust bearing kit it comes with decent instructed and you have to replace everything in a specific over

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drive-Pulley/12002213/1042142

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Thanks! I took the tub top off to check for anything that would drag, and didn't find anything so I've got a thrust bearing kit on the way. I appreciate the help.

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It didn't appear to help. I replaced the thrust bearing and pulley with the new kit, and it seemed to fall into specs, but for the first couple of loads there was a rapid-fire clapping sound. Of course, when I ran loads with the front panel off to see if I could figure out where the knocking was coming from, it stopped. The clothes are still damp though, at any rate.

Any other ideas of things I could check? Thanks!

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When you put the front back on the that piece of metal at the bottom was hitting the pulley. You just reach under and pull it down a little...

When under the machine I turn the pulley and watch to see if it releases the brake (above the pulley)...

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The pulley will turn a few degrees before rotating the shaft. The calibration arrow on the inside is falling between the two marks when this happens. Does this mean the brake is releasing properly? What else should I be looking for?

I should also.mention that the knocking/clapping was happening during agitate not spin. It happened again with the front off, but my wife shut the machine down before I could take a listen, and we couldn't get it to happen again.

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From my seminal tome on checking and adjusting these brakes, here's how the brake and transmission is supposed to work:

When the Drive Pulley rotates CLOCKWISE, the upper and lower cams are designed to nest together which allows the Drive Pulley to remain in position on the Drive Shaft. The Brake remains engaged and the Drive Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive the shaft to cause the Transmission to agitate.

When the Drive Pulley rotates COUNTERCLOCKWISE, the upper cam and pulley ride up the lower cam approximately 3/16 of an inch before the driving shoulders on the Pulley hub engage the “dogs” on the lower cam.

This causes the top of the Pulley hub to push against the spacer which compresses the Brake Spring and lifts the Brake Rotor and lining assembly off the Brake Stator. The Brake is disengaged and the Pulley will turn the lower cam and drive shaft to cause the Transmission to spin.

Read more ==> http://fixitnow.com/...loading-washer/

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OK, thanks for the guide. All that seems to be happening. A couple of other questions have popped up while I was testing though.

1: Should I be able to turn the shaft counter-clockwise if nothing is pushing up on the brake? If I turn just the hub without letting the pulley compress upwards, I can still turn the shaft, even though there's one spot that it feels that the brake is clamping down.

2: Even after the new thrust pulley and a new belt, my machine seems to be "pausing" during spin...just split-second lapses where it appears that the drum slows down, then picks up again. When manually rotating the thrust pulley, I can feel a spot where things slow down once per rotation, much like I was describing in 1: above...a moment when it feels like something is clamping down, then it passes.

I'm kind of grasping at straws here, and am on the verge of calling in a hit-man on this machine...

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Sounds like the brake disengagement needs to be adjusted. Go on the next section in the link I posted and check/adjust the brake disengagement.

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The adjustment arrow is already falling between the min and max marks. I had to use the thinner of the two washers, as the thicker one caused the arrow to stay left of the min mark. Is there any other way to adjust the brake? Might I be looking at some busted parts in the brake itself?

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