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Washer Wont Work--ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM

asko washer w620

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26 replies to this topic

#1 scuba415

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Posted 30 December 2011 - 03:58 PM

Hi all,

I have an ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM that is not working. When I try to run a load of wash the water goes in, it sits there for about 1 minute, then the cycle dial advances to the "S" position, indicating a service call. Prior to not working at all, it seemed to be making a grating noise when turning slowly, during the wash cycle, but the spin cycle sounded ok. The drain function works, the wash chamber spins when turned by hand, the water pump seems to be working ok, I checked the pin trap and it is all clear. Is there anything else I can try, short of opening up the unit, before calling for service?

TIA

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#2 scuba415

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Posted 31 December 2011 - 08:11 PM

My apologies for posting before thoroughly searching the forums. It seems the likely culprit is the motor, and hopefully just the brushes on the motor.

First I must confess; I called a service technician out before really trying to fix this myself. I know, its like inviting Dracula inside, but I do have excuses. I have a chronic bad back, and currently am battling tendonitis in both forearms; so moving these stacked units (small as they are) was daunting. I also have a newborn in the house, so lack of time on my part, and wanting this thing fixed ASAP were all considerations. I will wear my ribbons of shame until this forum feels I have redeemed myself.

But what got me back to my DIY-self, was what the service guy told me. He comes out turns on the unit, watches water go in, then the thing doesn’t agitate, the dial advances to the “S” position, all of which I told him on the phone. He says “motor is out, 517 dollar to replace” that was his exact syntax (add Russian accent while you read it). So, I was faced with spending $517 to fix an almost 11-year-old unit, or spending around $900-1200 on a new unit, which likely wouldn’t stack correctly with my old Asko dryer.

But, after reading a couple of threads here, I believe I am on the road to redemption. I have leaned the stacked units back on a couple of books, taken off the front access panel and removed the brushes, which were badly worn. One brush had about ½” left, the other about ¼” left.


I did still have a couple of questions regarding changing the brushes.

#1 This forums zen masters have recommended smoothing the commutator with a grinding stone or fine sand paper. How do I know if my commutator needs smoothing? It feels smooth to the touch and there is no evidence of sparking, pitting, etc.

#2 Is there any way to tell if it is just the brushes and not something more severe with the motor? Or is the only way (for a lowly grasshopper without electrical testing equipment) to change the brushes and see if that fixes the problem. I did not experience any smell of electric equipment frying, and the motor did seem to have a gradual “going out” period with a couple of instances of incomplete cycles, and “S” codes.

I will make a thorough write up when I am finished with the project for future reference. Especially since it seems that I will be able to change the brushes from the front access panel.

#3 scuba415

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 03:19 PM

My post is not receiving any love :( Maybe it is due to the posting date before the New Year holiday? Any help would be appreciated regarding the remaining questions I have. I would also be happy to post a "brush changing instructions" but can't seem to post pics, but either way will post the instructions when I have completed my repair.

I did still have a couple of questions regarding changing the brushes.

#1 This forums zen masters have recommended smoothing the commutator with a grinding stone or fine sand paper. How do I know if my commutator needs smoothing? It feels smooth to the touch and there is no evidence of sparking, pitting, etc, though there are slight striations on the metal. Also, what kind of grit sandpaper are we talking here?

#2 Is there any way to tell if it is just the brushes and not something more severe with the motor? Or is the only way (for a lowly grasshopper without electrical testing equipment) to change the brushes and see if that fixes the problem. I did not experience any smell of electric equipment frying, and the motor did seem to have a gradual “going out” period with a couple of instances of incomplete cycles, and “S” codes.

TIA

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 09:25 PM

Hi Scubs, sorry your topic slipped by. Your persistence is about to pay off!

Bad motor brushes are a visual kind of a thing. If they're worn down to little nubs or cracked, they's worser than bad-- they bayad. And, in accordance with the 8th Quatrain of the Prophecy, we must fix obvious problems first.

Part link for the brushes ==> http://www.repaircli...8801195/1094128

Order two because you need to replace both at the same.

The commutator condition is a look/feel kind of a deal. If the commutator feels smooth and isn't pitted, then it's probably good to go. Replace the brushes and let that puppy ride.

#5 scuba415

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Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:35 PM

Thank you for the reply, wise one. The commutator is deemed smooth, and I eagerly await the arrival of my two brush solution (hopefully).

#6 scuba415

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 06:32 PM

Sigh! One of my new brushes is in less than perfect shape. The "pointy", or taller side of the tip has a chip on it. The commutator would strike the edge on the opposite side of the chip first. Should I be concerned about this? Should I try to file it smooth? Or will it wear into shape?

Secondly, that same brush has trouble with the spring or slide. It will compress when pressed down firmly, but does not slide easily like the other one, and it does not push back up with the spring. Is it hopeless with this brush? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Scuba

#7 scuba415

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 08:07 PM

OK, now I have another question for the board. The brushes are mounted at 10 O'clock and 4 O'clock positions, pointing toward commutator. The old brushes are worn so that the bevel on the brush tip conforms to the commutator. The new brushes are beveled in the exact opposite direction. The graphite is in the copper holder, the copper part fits only one way into the plastic housing which mounts in only one way to the motor.

So, what do I do about the bevel being the opposite direction it will be when worn in? Am I supposed to remove the graphite from the copper housing and reverse it? I cannot see an apparent way to do this. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Scuba

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 12:31 AM

... new brushes are beveled in the exact opposite direction.

part numbers ?
pictures ?
.

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#9 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 01:38 PM

RegUS_PatOff,

Thanks for the reply. Attached is a picture of the two old brushes and their original position around the commutator, and the new brushes next to the old ones, showing the opposite bevel direction of the brush tips. The Asko brush part number is 8801097.

Can/should the new brush tips be filed to agree with the original bevel? How exact does it have to be?

Attached Files



#10 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 04:32 PM

I'm not an Asko master, but the graphite may be able to be reversed
Here's a picture of 8801097
Posted Image
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#11 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 04:46 PM

Thanks for the reply. Yes, your picture has the correct beveling, and as you can see in my picture, the beveling of my new brushes is reversed.

As far as reversing the graphite, the graphite is enclosed in a copper sheath, as seen in my picture. There is no obvious way to open the copper sheath to reverse the graphite. The copper only fits into the plastic housing one way. If anyone has experience with reversing the graphite or opening the copper sheath please respond.

Short of reversing it, is it feasible to file it to the correct direction? How exact would it have to be?

#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 04:56 PM

sorry, I don't know...
Where did you get the parts ?
returnable ?
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#13 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 05:20 PM

I was trying to save a buck and ordered them from the UK, they are returnable but might not be worth the postage as the brushes were under $20, plus shipping of $15 from UK.

I found this thread which discusses putting brushes together. I think it is related to this site (different address), but it is old and I cannot see the pictures.
http://applianceguru...orum9/8670.html

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 08:13 PM

... The brushes are mounted at 10 O'clock and 4 O'clock positions, pointing toward commutator.
... The old brushes are worn so that the bevel on the brush tip conforms to the commutator.

maybe these ?
at that USA auction site :whistling:
item # 160590433107
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#15 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:15 PM

Oh boy! Those are the ones I should have ordered! The link you...errr...didn't post states that: "The pointed end on the chamfer is on the right when viewed from the top of the brush."

The site I ordered from didn't mention the tip direction, so it didn't click (clunk) in my steamed cabbage of a mind that I needed to PAY ATTENTION TO THAT. That will be another 2 weeks from UK, and another trip to the mum-in-laws house to clean my knickers!

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:35 PM

... "The pointed end on the chamfer is on the right when viewed from the top of the brush."

... actually, that didn't make any sense to me... but the picture did
Which is the "top of the Brush" ?
Dpends on weather you have the tip facing up or down .. :kopkrab:
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#17 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:43 PM

Reminds me of a line from Planes, Trains and Automobiles....

John Candy and Steve Martin have been up all night driving cross country and they get on the freeway going in the wrong direction. Another car on a side road is honking and yelling at them "You're going the wrong way!!" and John Candy's character says "How does he know where we're going?"

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:46 PM

"Those aren't pillows ! "
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#19 scuba415

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Posted 18 January 2012 - 09:58 PM

Haha, an American classic for sure.

#20 scuba415

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Posted 19 January 2012 - 07:22 PM

OK, I filed the brushes that had the wrong bevel direction to the correct bevel direction. Doing this by hand I couldn't get the concave fit on them. I gave the washer a try with these brushes and it worked, so it was the brushes as the original problem, which I guess is good news. However, I left off the front access panel and can see sparking where the brushes make contact with the commutator. How much, if any, sparking is considered normal? I have read that brushes might take a bit of time to wear in to the perfect shape, should I let them wear in with this sparking going on, or am I head for commutator damage? Any help is appreciated.





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