Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
scuba415

Washer Wont Work--ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM

27 posts in this topic

Hi all,

I have an ASKO W620 Quatro 1200RPM that is not working. When I try to run a load of wash the water goes in, it sits there for about 1 minute, then the cycle dial advances to the "S" position, indicating a service call. Prior to not working at all, it seemed to be making a grating noise when turning slowly, during the wash cycle, but the spin cycle sounded ok. The drain function works, the wash chamber spins when turned by hand, the water pump seems to be working ok, I checked the pin trap and it is all clear. Is there anything else I can try, short of opening up the unit, before calling for service?

TIA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

My apologies for posting before thoroughly searching the forums. It seems the likely culprit is the motor, and hopefully just the brushes on the motor.

First I must confess; I called a service technician out before really trying to fix this myself. I know, its like inviting Dracula inside, but I do have excuses. I have a chronic bad back, and currently am battling tendonitis in both forearms; so moving these stacked units (small as they are) was daunting. I also have a newborn in the house, so lack of time on my part, and wanting this thing fixed ASAP were all considerations. I will wear my ribbons of shame until this forum feels I have redeemed myself.

But what got me back to my DIY-self, was what the service guy told me. He comes out turns on the unit, watches water go in, then the thing doesn’t agitate, the dial advances to the “S” position, all of which I told him on the phone. He says “motor is out, 517 dollar to replace” that was his exact syntax (add Russian accent while you read it). So, I was faced with spending $517 to fix an almost 11-year-old unit, or spending around $900-1200 on a new unit, which likely wouldn’t stack correctly with my old Asko dryer.

But, after reading a couple of threads here, I believe I am on the road to redemption. I have leaned the stacked units back on a couple of books, taken off the front access panel and removed the brushes, which were badly worn. One brush had about ½” left, the other about ¼” left.

I did still have a couple of questions regarding changing the brushes.

#1 This forums zen masters have recommended smoothing the commutator with a grinding stone or fine sand paper. How do I know if my commutator needs smoothing? It feels smooth to the touch and there is no evidence of sparking, pitting, etc.

#2 Is there any way to tell if it is just the brushes and not something more severe with the motor? Or is the only way (for a lowly grasshopper without electrical testing equipment) to change the brushes and see if that fixes the problem. I did not experience any smell of electric equipment frying, and the motor did seem to have a gradual “going out” period with a couple of instances of incomplete cycles, and “S” codes.

I will make a thorough write up when I am finished with the project for future reference. Especially since it seems that I will be able to change the brushes from the front access panel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My post is not receiving any love :( Maybe it is due to the posting date before the New Year holiday? Any help would be appreciated regarding the remaining questions I have. I would also be happy to post a "brush changing instructions" but can't seem to post pics, but either way will post the instructions when I have completed my repair.

I did still have a couple of questions regarding changing the brushes.

#1 This forums zen masters have recommended smoothing the commutator with a grinding stone or fine sand paper. How do I know if my commutator needs smoothing? It feels smooth to the touch and there is no evidence of sparking, pitting, etc, though there are slight striations on the metal. Also, what kind of grit sandpaper are we talking here?

#2 Is there any way to tell if it is just the brushes and not something more severe with the motor? Or is the only way (for a lowly grasshopper without electrical testing equipment) to change the brushes and see if that fixes the problem. I did not experience any smell of electric equipment frying, and the motor did seem to have a gradual “going out” period with a couple of instances of incomplete cycles, and “S” codes.

TIA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Scubs, sorry your topic slipped by. Your persistence is about to pay off!

Bad motor brushes are a visual kind of a thing. If they're worn down to little nubs or cracked, they's worser than bad-- they bayad. And, in accordance with the 8th Quatrain of the Prophecy, we must fix obvious problems first.

Part link for the brushes ==> http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Motor-Brush/8801195/1094128

Order two because you need to replace both at the same.

The commutator condition is a look/feel kind of a deal. If the commutator feels smooth and isn't pitted, then it's probably good to go. Replace the brushes and let that puppy ride.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for the reply, wise one. The commutator is deemed smooth, and I eagerly await the arrival of my two brush solution (hopefully).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sigh! One of my new brushes is in less than perfect shape. The "pointy", or taller side of the tip has a chip on it. The commutator would strike the edge on the opposite side of the chip first. Should I be concerned about this? Should I try to file it smooth? Or will it wear into shape?

Secondly, that same brush has trouble with the spring or slide. It will compress when pressed down firmly, but does not slide easily like the other one, and it does not push back up with the spring. Is it hopeless with this brush? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,

Scuba

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, now I have another question for the board. The brushes are mounted at 10 O'clock and 4 O'clock positions, pointing toward commutator. The old brushes are worn so that the bevel on the brush tip conforms to the commutator. The new brushes are beveled in the exact opposite direction. The graphite is in the copper holder, the copper part fits only one way into the plastic housing which mounts in only one way to the motor.

So, what do I do about the bevel being the opposite direction it will be when worn in? Am I supposed to remove the graphite from the copper housing and reverse it? I cannot see an apparent way to do this. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

TIA,

Scuba

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... new brushes are beveled in the exact opposite direction.

part numbers ?

pictures ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

RegUS_PatOff,

Thanks for the reply. Attached is a picture of the two old brushes and their original position around the commutator, and the new brushes next to the old ones, showing the opposite bevel direction of the brush tips. The Asko brush part number is 8801097.

Can/should the new brush tips be filed to agree with the original bevel? How exact does it have to be?

post-4670-0-67009000-1326911587_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not an Asko master, but the graphite may be able to be reversed

Here's a picture of 8801097

askocesetbrushes.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply. Yes, your picture has the correct beveling, and as you can see in my picture, the beveling of my new brushes is reversed.

As far as reversing the graphite, the graphite is enclosed in a copper sheath, as seen in my picture. There is no obvious way to open the copper sheath to reverse the graphite. The copper only fits into the plastic housing one way. If anyone has experience with reversing the graphite or opening the copper sheath please respond.

Short of reversing it, is it feasible to file it to the correct direction? How exact would it have to be?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry, I don't know...

Where did you get the parts ?

returnable ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was trying to save a buck and ordered them from the UK, they are returnable but might not be worth the postage as the brushes were under $20, plus shipping of $15 from UK.

I found this thread which discusses putting brushes together. I think it is related to this site (different address), but it is old and I cannot see the pictures.

http://applianceguru.com/forum9/8670.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... The brushes are mounted at 10 O'clock and 4 O'clock positions, pointing toward commutator.

... The old brushes are worn so that the bevel on the brush tip conforms to the commutator.

maybe these ?

at that USA auction site :whistling:

item # 160590433107

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oh boy! Those are the ones I should have ordered! The link you...errr...didn't post states that: "The pointed end on the chamfer is on the right when viewed from the top of the brush."

The site I ordered from didn't mention the tip direction, so it didn't click (clunk) in my steamed cabbage of a mind that I needed to PAY ATTENTION TO THAT. That will be another 2 weeks from UK, and another trip to the mum-in-laws house to clean my knickers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... "The pointed end on the chamfer is on the right when viewed from the top of the brush."

... actually, that didn't make any sense to me... but the picture did

Which is the "top of the Brush" ?

Dpends on weather you have the tip facing up or down .. :kopkrab:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Reminds me of a line from Planes, Trains and Automobiles....

John Candy and Steve Martin have been up all night driving cross country and they get on the freeway going in the wrong direction. Another car on a side road is honking and yelling at them "You're going the wrong way!!" and John Candy's character says "How does he know where we're going?"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"Those aren't pillows ! "

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha, an American classic for sure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, I filed the brushes that had the wrong bevel direction to the correct bevel direction. Doing this by hand I couldn't get the concave fit on them. I gave the washer a try with these brushes and it worked, so it was the brushes as the original problem, which I guess is good news. However, I left off the front access panel and can see sparking where the brushes make contact with the commutator. How much, if any, sparking is considered normal? I have read that brushes might take a bit of time to wear in to the perfect shape, should I let them wear in with this sparking going on, or am I head for commutator damage? Any help is appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some sparking is normal.

It should be OK until the new Brushes arrive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent! The beast rides again! Thanks for all your help! I will make a thorough write up for grasshoppers like me!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sparking is caused by gaps in the contact between the brush and the commutator. These gaps were probably caused by hand-filing-- almost impossible to make a perfect surface by hand. How much sparking are you seeing? Maybe make a video with your camera, upload to youtube, and post the link here. Could be a cool video! Excessive sparking can cause pitting on the commutator-- not a good thing. A little sparking caused by imperfections in the brush mating surface may go away on its own as the brush conforms to the commutator surface.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see steady, small sparking right at the brush-comm contact point, about 1/8" sparks. Every second or two it will throw off a bit of a larger spark, maybe 1" or so. More sparking can be seen when the commutator spins counter clock wise.

Posted a video here: http://youtu.be/aO3C6w-X3q4

I ran a full load and the washer performed well, even in fast spin, but there is quite a bit of that sparking smell coming from the unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice video! The smaller sparks are first weren't too bad but the sparks in the second half of the video were excessive and could damage the commutator. Try working on that surface a bit more. Maybe use a bench grinder to get a little more control.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites