Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

  • Announcements

    • Samurai Appliance Repair Man

      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
phydeauxe64

Kitchen Aid Built in Refrigerator KSSC48QMS01 keeps beeping, no cooling

28 posts in this topic

This dadburned Kitchen Aid Built In Refer. I've replaced upper control board evap fan upper power supply brd.AND Interface but it keeps beeping and won't let me reset the alarm. It won't cool the ref. side evap fan keeps pulsing when it beeps fan comes on. Oh yeah I've replaced the 3 thermistors also Somebuddy ANYbuddy Please Help me STOP THE BEEEPING!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

from the KSSC48QMS01 Use & Care Guide

"A Master Alarm Reset can be performed by pressing the POWER (ON/OFF) twice

or by turning the power to the refrigerator off and on again."

for service manuals and other perks, become an Apprentice

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I've tried that,but it won't reset lites in display keep flashing on and off,its like the board won't reset or accept the commands.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pressing over temp reset should turn off the alarm. Dbl chk your connections. What made you decide to replace so many components. This machine has a self test, you know?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's the weird thing, I put in diagnostic mode and checked everything out diagnostic showed evap fan at wrong speed changed that,then it said interface bad,changed that,then it said upper control brd bad changed that,a fellow tech suggested changing thermistors did that, now I can't even put it in diagnostic mode now. Tried resetting over temp but brd won't accept any commands now the only brd. I havent changed is the inverter brd. I've gone thru ALL the reset commands but nothin works. So,is it time for dynamite or High powered rifle?...lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now you have to go through and test out the wiring harness. Try putting the old board back in and see what happens. Also try the old user interface. You made sure to ground yourself during all this surgery right?

Its alot easier to check plugs and wires for continuity when you have a second pair of hands with you.

More then once, Ive gotten control boards, motor controller inverters, user interfaces etc, that were bad out of the box.

On kitchenaids, I always change out the power board when I change the control board. Your control board is obviously getting power though.

Edited by RussTech

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...You made sure to ground yourself during all this surgery right?

... shouldn't matter too much, . . unless you have a carpeted kitchen :whistling:

Has this Fridge worked OK for you, up till now, at this location ?

Had there been a lightning surge, or any power company work done at the time of failure ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The fridge is on tile in kitchen I did replace the power supply board also when I changed out the upper control brd. Put old brd. back in it went back to four beeps the new brd kept on beeping. Old brd took it back to its original prob which was shutting everything down.Dont have old interface as it was a core part had to turn it in. Checked all connections they're all ok, continuity throughout I'm thinkin bad brd out of the box as well cause it made matters worse than the old brd. Question?? What does the shunt do on upper control brd?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the way customer says fridge has worked ok never had service since owned for past 7years it was bought new when house was built. original complaint was not getting cold enough in freezer. Then All hell broke loose...lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

By the way customer says fridge has worked ok never had service since owned for past 7years it was bought new when house was built. original complaint was not getting cold enough in freezer. Then All hell broke loose...lol

As far as I know there has been no power work done, we haven't had any storms in a long while down here so lightning is out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
It won't cool the ref. side evap fan keeps pulsing when it beeps fan comes on.

It's not clear from this how long the evaporator fan pulses and whether or not it ever runs normally.

What are the freezer temperatures?

If the compressor is running, you don't need the inverter board so scratch that one off your list. ;)

Pulsing evaporator fan motor and not accepting keypad commands for diagnostic entry and self-test points to a bad electronic outta da box.

Part number: 2303934

Part number: 2303934

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Grand master...Evap fan comes on when beeping starts then goes off when beeping stops aproximately 30 to 45 secs.What does the Shunt do and why doesn't the new board come with one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Evap fan comes on when beeping starts then goes off when beeping stops aproximately 30 to 45 secs.

And it will continuously cycle back and forth like this until the plug is pulled?

What does the Shunt do and why doesn't the new board come with one?

What's the part number of the board you're referring to so we can make sure we're talking about the same thang.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Board number is W10219463. yes evap fan keeps coming on and off when beeping starts and stops, also readout on interface numbers and lights flash but interior light doesn't even flicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is there a way to IM you or can I call you? Whats a faster way to get in touch witcha?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Top left corner above P3 is MFG shunt Then where the silver square is just left of that is the other shunt

If you read above silver square it says "KABI bottom mount shunt1-2

The old board had one there a little black thingy that plugs on to it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

look left top corner of silver square with triac in it thats where the shunt was

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do You see where they are?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see the location you're talking about. I'm not finding any info on the shunts, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried putting the lil jumper on the one by the silver square thats where it was on the old board but it made no difference.

I'm wondering if it's supposed to be on the new board or if it's no longer required.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Grand Master any luck finding out about the shunt? Going back to this call tomorrow morning with new board any advice you can enlighten me with would be greatly appreciated....Anxiously awaiting your response...thanx...phydeauxe64

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks like

P1 = MFG DIAGNOSTIC SHUNT 1-2 (maybe only for MFG diagnostics) ?

P2 = KABI BOTTOM MOUNT SHUNT 1-2 (Kitchenaid Built-In Bottom Mount) ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As a matter of fact, after much sleuthing and research, I managed to learn something velly interestink about those shunts from the Service Updates ==>

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK.. looks good..

that was page 59 of what original file ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites