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Converting a valve DSK-65-LP

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32 replies to this topic

#21 joebudd

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 08:15 PM

Here is one more

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#22 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 08:26 PM

picture of top of Valve ?
is this the "new" Valve ?
are there any part numbers on it ?
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#23 Dan Webster

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 09:06 PM

You cannot convert that valve based on what I see that thing is factory set and not servicable in the field...I may be wrong...been wrong before. I have a truck full of essex valves by the way.

Edited by applianceman18007260692, 05 January 2012 - 09:07 PM.

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#24 joebudd

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 09:34 PM

I can't find the number on my valve. This number is fromm the "new" valve. 201-221001-1507
Both valves look identical. The only difference is mine states 10" on the bottom. Let me know if you have one. Post a picture.

#25 Dan Webster

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Posted 05 January 2012 - 11:36 PM

show the top of the valve
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#26 joebudd

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 05:05 PM

Look at the pictures I posted. There is a pic of the top. Find any essex LP valves that look like the one pictured? Thanks

#27 Dan Webster

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:28 PM

I do not have that one.

Why not just use a newer style valve?
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#28 joebudd

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:06 PM

I can convert the natural gas valve. All I need to do is take the spring out of the 3.5" valve and put the spring from my 10" valve in it and then set the adjusting screw and use a manometer. Pretty easy. The heater was made for LP. All I want to do is put a valve in that works and came in the unit. Youtube. What a great tool. They even show how to make your own manometer. Now I can use the valve with a high or low setting. Life is good!!!!!!!!!!!!

#29 Dan Webster

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:19 AM

Well post some pictures of the conversion so that future folks can see them.

Edited by applianceman18007260692, 07 January 2012 - 11:19 AM.

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#30 joebudd

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 03:15 PM

OK Heres the deal. I bought the essex natural gas valve. Looks like the one I have. The new valve has in and out on opposite sides the old valve was 90 degrees. Not a big deal, put a 90 in and had to reduced it to 3/8. Took the old spring and put it in the new valve, and made a manometer. Put the burner unit on the bench rigged up the gas and fired it off. Unit was very close to 10" w/c. Adjusted it and shut it down. Put the burner in the heater housing and pipe the gas. I used 1/2 black iron. I put my union and my trap and gas valve in, hook up the gas. I lite the pilot, turned up the thermostat and waited. 30 seconds later the burner lights. A couple of minutes later the fan kicks in. Not too bad for never doing this before. My advice, always read about what you are planning on doing. Ask questions, and read some more.

#31 Dan Webster

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:41 PM

Way to git her did! :rocker:
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#32 joebudd

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 04:09 PM

I do have one question. I did a soap test. Don't see any leaks. If I put my nose down by the valve area of the pilot valve/line. I can smell a little gas when it is running. Good bad? Had the unit running for about 2 hours . No problems

#33 Daveb1972

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Posted 09 February 2012 - 09:03 PM

Most of the aftermarket valves come with the correct lp conversion kit included. THE KITS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE between models or manufacturers, and you'll need a reliable manometer to verify the correct pressure setting. If the original valve had corrosion inside, it just isnt safe to "rebuild" or swap parts. GAMA (Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association)states all valves with moisture damage, or that have been flooded are NO GOOD!
The robershaw unit that Grand-master Funk showed has a 90 degree outlet and meets most of your specs (one stage only) and should also come with a proper LP conv kit.
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