<<<I observed oversuds condition, and ASSUMED that that was what was causing the leak.>>>
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Explain to the customer that---during a cycle---there should be no suds visible at all (zip/zero).
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<<<Through diagnostics, the unit checks good for everything but recirculate. I.E. I couln't tell if it was moving the water or not, in the given portion of the test cycle.>>>
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During a test of the RECIRCULATION MOTOR function---water should be seen cascading down the door glass from a nozzle within the rubber door gasket---located at the top (12 o'clock on the gasket).
The nozzle can become plugged/restricted by a clump of lint.
Use your finger---and grasp the blockage to clear the nozzle. The plastic nozzle is virtually unbreakable and can be forced apart/stretched to get a grip on the lint build-up.
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<<<the customer is using powdered, tide, non HE>>>
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Advise the customer---that using non-HE type detergent will cause:
1) Musty Odor
2) L-o-n-g Cycle Run Time (duration)---longer than the time displayed on the control panel
3) Poor Wash Results (especially whites)---Dingy whites
4) Slower Spin Speed (wetter laundry at the end of the cycle)---dryer needs longer run time to dry laundry.
5) Intermittent Water Leaks from behind the washer (air vent)
6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on models built prior to 2008)---this shows as an "LE" error that cannot be "reset" or "cleared"
7) "LE" Suds Error (can be cleared from MAIN BOARD when washer is unplugged for 30 seconds)
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<<<I know that the vent is designed, to leak, during heavy suds, and mostly to help the machine, during drain.>>>
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The vent at the rear of the washer is only designed/intended to allow air movement within the tub for laundry tumbling---as well as to permit opening and closing the door without suction-effect.
Suds was not intended to be "evacuated" or "vented" through this outlet.
All LG washers *do* have a software program known as SUDS KILL MODE---this is triggered (or enabled) when the MAIN BOARD detects the presence of suds through the HALL EFFECT SENSOR during the **RINSE** portion of a cycle.
During SUD KILL MODE--- the display clock will **stall** while the washer enables a set of actions designed to reduce (but almost never completely) the amount of suds.
SUDS KILL MODE usually runs for approximately 20 to 30 minutes---before the display "clock" resumes counting downward.
Also explain to the customer that the ***CORRECT*** amount of "HE" detergent that should be used depends on the ***potency*** of the detergent...
HE (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load (regardless of load size)
HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
Consumers/customers often express surprise that the ***INSTRUCTIONS*** on the bottle/box of detergent are ***INCORRECT***.
In most cases---reading a product label (instructions) IS THE CORRECT THING TO DO.
In this case---not so.
The soap & detergent industry (with the exception of the Shaklee Corporation) isn't interested in proper front load washer function/clean laundry----it's all about profit.
Most consumers never think that the root cause of their washer problem(s) are connected to (or caused ) by the detergent.
I'd print this post and give a copy to *your* customer
Edited by john63, 04 January 2012 - 12:00 AM.