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LG WM2016CW OE error won't pump in rinse mode


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17 replies to this topic

#1 Dhum

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:08 PM

My wife a while back an LG WM2016CW front load washer. She retired the old top load whirlpool that i had been repairing over the years so now it's time when it is beginning to give some errors.

We get an OE error on the front panel. Everything I've read says the pump/lines being plugged so I layed it on its side and took apart the hoses, etc. I did find plenty of "Issues" both in the bottom of the drum (gunk going into the black hose going to the pump), the drain line was plugged from hard water, and the outlet line had junk build up. I dutifully cleaned "everything" out and thought I had rectified the situation.

But first load I came back to see that ugly OE error on the front panel. The fabric softener was gone so I ASSume it went through the wash cycle (which would include the spin/pump out cycle) and then began the rinse/spin cycle. I then tried to send it through a quick rinse/spin cycle (19 minutes) and at 13 minutes it just sits there full of water and eventually gives me the OE error. I do NOT hear it attempting to pump out or what I would think......I do seem to hear a humming noise but cannot fully say it is loud and the pump. But if it is the pump, how does it get through the initial washing cycle (again, assuming that completed since my fabric softener is now empty).

So, any help is appreciated.

If there is some line I didn't fully clean that may be an issue let me know:
1) black line under drum - big opening had junk...cleaned - line going towards top of drum (inside black line was plugged) didn't see anything in the white plastic line heading up so I didn't pursue that.
2) removed/cleaned pump inlet that holds the screen - removed pump from this piece and the impeller did not seem loose
3) small drain line allowing you to drain the drum was completely plugged from hard water - fully cleaned
4) drain line out the back had junk in it....fully cleaned and ran snake through it and flushed again

Again, many thanks

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#2 john63

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:40 PM

Most likely a failed DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001D)

Water drains from the tub...

Through the hole at the bottom of the tub (almost never a restriction/blockage will occur here)

Through the black bellows type hose---into the PUMP HOUSING (once-in-a-while a sock may be in this bellows)

From the PUMP HOUSING---through the STRAINER---into the PUMP MOTOR/IMPELLER housing (coins/buttons/pins/bra wire/BBs/lint etc can accumulate in *both* the STRAINER and the IMPELLER area of the PUMP MOTOR).

Drain water is then forced/pushed through the DRAIN HOSE mounted at the top of the PUMP ASSEMBLY. In some cases---rubber-backed bathroom floor mats have disintegrated during the wash cycle and have COMPLETELY plugged the drain system from the entrance to the PUMP HOUSING----to the gray DRAIN HOSE---a solid mass of sandy/rubbery residue.

As the DRAIN HOSE runs from the PUMP HOUSING to the white-plastic (u-shaped) GOOSENECK CONNECTOR (mounted on the rear of the washer)---water reaches the DRAIN STANDPIPE or UTILITUB.
Blockage can occur at the GOOSENECK---and compressed air is most effective at blowing this small connector free of debris.

*********************

<<< I then tried to send it through a quick rinse/spin cycle (19 minutes)>>>

*********************

Try this...

1) Press: POWER Button (wake-up washer)
2) Press "SPIN SPEED" button---set to NO SPIN
3) Push "START/PAUSE" button

Washer will enter DRAIN CYCLE (pump all water from tub---when operating properly) and shut off after one minute.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Comstock_Services

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:41 PM

you beat me John, that's good info.

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#4 Dhum

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:11 PM

Update: Unless I did something wrong, the pump appears to be non-functioing. I tried to have it do a quick spin/drain cycle again (it was full of water) and it sat there and sat there on 13 mins....I then pulled the plug on the filter (there was some hard water sedsitment pieces that were caught I assume from the tub) and I drained MOST of the water out....once the water was down enough the machine began to try to turn to spin out...I closed the filter door.

The tub would shake like it was off set and at NO point did I hear the pump try to run. I seemed to stop when I pulled the plug again and a bunch of water/suds came out...the machine then proceeded to spin again and given that I had the filter/plug completely out, it finished the spin cycle.

This pump WAS running BEFORE i took it apart. I remember running it through a cycle and hearing it suck through the filter plug.

I am reading what you responded to above (I posted this PRIOR to seeing your responses - my apologies).

I will try what you stated above and repost.

Edited by Dhum, 03 January 2012 - 10:16 PM.


#5 john63

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:22 PM

<<<This pump WAS running BEFORE i took it apart. I remember running it through a cycle and hearing it suck through the filter plug.>>>

****************

It's not unusual at all to find a DRAIN MOTOR that "runs" but is too slow (or the impeller is loosely spinning) to effectively drain the wash water out.

Verify first---that no other restriction/blockage is preventing drain.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#6 Dhum

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:24 PM

Ok - By the time i read your post I had the washer empty.

I did what you mentioned and I heard the pump seem to run (maybe a little growly but I had the filter plug out).

So I put the machine into a quick rinse/spin cycle to fill it up with water. I then shut it off.

I followed your recommendations, no spin, go....I heard the pump run as normal, and when I checked the output hose it was running at what appeared to be MAX capacity....The washer pumped itself out and then the machine eventually said end and shut off.

Not sure where this leaves me now.

#7 john63

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:27 PM

A SERIAL NUMBER would be *real* handy to have :)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Dhum

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:30 PM

S/N 809kwsb11198

Should have put that out there to begin with! :thumbsup:

#9 john63

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:34 PM

Built September 2008.

No Service Bulletins exist.

That leaves the possibility of an intermittently functioning (sometimes works/sometimes not) DRAIN MOTOR.

Try a SPEED WASH cycle (without laundry) to check PUMP MOTOR function/reliability.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 Dhum

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:17 PM

I just ran a quick cycle - 28 mins....it finished with no issue.

I will try a full load with laundry to see what happens.

Thanks

#11 john63

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:37 PM

If the DRAIN MOTOR fails to function consistently---replace it.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#12 Dhum

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 01:12 AM

The full wash cycle with laundry did fail. I had an OE on it and this time there was fabric softener remaining so it did not pump out at the end of the wash cycle, although, again I put it in spin mode to manually finish it and it continued on. Followed by a manual rinse/spin which also completed just fine.

So is there anyway to test the pump other than replacing it?

Also, let me verify the proper pump number as I've seen two different numbers, ones $70+ and the other around $45. I see Part Number: AP4437652 made by LG.

If you believe I will need to replace that, then I will get it coming or is there possibly some other electronics piece not properly running the cycles?

Many thanks to all!

#13 john63

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 01:55 AM

<<<The full wash cycle with laundry did fail. I had an OE on it>>>

**********

"OE"====> No Drain---replace DRAIN MOTOR.

LG part number: 4681EA2001D

Appliance Parts Pros part number: AP4437652

**********

<<<this time there was fabric softener remaining>>>

**********

This tells us only that the DRAIN MOTOR failed while attempting to pump out water from the Main Wash (did not advance to the *Rinse* portion of the cycle)---dirty wash water remaining in the tub---triggered an "OE" error. Cycle will *not* advance any further.

**********

<<<is there possibly some other electronics piece not properly running the cycles?>>>

**********

No.
Additionally---there are no SERVICE BULLETINS either---which would indicate/describe *software* issues.

An intermittent DRAIN MOTOR can give the appearance that something else is causing the "OE" error.


To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#14 Dhum

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 11:18 AM

Forgive young apprentice here but 4681EA2001D does not show my model WM2016CW as a compatible number. Also, this is listed as AP4440742.

Searching by Model # on the diagram I'm finding item K340 which is AP4437652 so I'm just wanting to verify prior to order as there is a $30 difference in the two - is one complete motor/pump or are you telling me that the cheaper one, while not documented as such, will work in my LG?

I hope I have not offended Master but only seek wisdom!

#15 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 02:10 PM

New APP link button experiment:

[disregard this post, it's for testing purposes only]

Linking AP4440742:

Part number: AP4440742

Part number: AP4440742


Linking 4681EA2001D:

Part number: 4681EA2001D

Part number: 4681EA2001D


Linking AP4437652:

Part number: AP4437652

Part number: AP4437652


#16 Dhum

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 02:12 PM

I purchased the AP4437652 item and received it the next day. Took me about 5 minutes to lay the unit on its side and replace the motor/pump assembly. I've ran several loads through the machine and it has operated just fine.

I have also used a note I found somewhere, whereby you hold the soil/spin buttons down, power on the unit - door locks, press start 6 times and it fills with hot water. (first off I put in a little hot water to fill the drain tube and then added either bleach or vinegar to clean the tub and basin, then close the door) The unit fills to maximum with hot water, press start 2 times to start the tub moving and let the machine run like this for a while (that note said 3 hours) to help in clearing up soap and/or hard water deposits. I'd then get soft-chunks to come out of the drain or get caugt in the filter. This is for hard water and also for cleaning up machines in which too much soap has been used over time. When you want to stop it, power down, then power up and run a quick cycle. In my case, seeing as my pump wasn't working and also since this is in a room with a floor drain in front of it, I'd just pull out the drain plug and also the filter port to flush the water while the tub was running figuring this would sooner keep any freed sediment moving and hopefully flushed down the tube. We will add this to our maintenance schedule.

Many thanks to all.

#17 john63

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:09 PM

<<<Took me about 5 minutes to lay the unit on its side and replace the motor/pump assembly. I've ran several loads through the machine and it has operated just fine.>>>

******************

I don't advise placing the washer on it's side to service it---as the suspension struts can come apart and it is diffifult to re-install them correctly (small friction pads also fall out).

Nevertheless---you've successfully repaired your washer. Good job :)

Edited by john63, 08 January 2012 - 12:42 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#18 Dhum

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:37 AM

I appreciate that information!

I had requested a service document but didn't get any replies so I'm not sure how to take the front panel off (which is the way I assume it should be done).

If somebody has some tips on how to take this unit apart to at least access these items, I'd appreciate that so I do not mess anything up in the future.






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