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LG WM2016CW OE error won't pump in rinse mode
#1
Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:08 PM
We get an OE error on the front panel. Everything I've read says the pump/lines being plugged so I layed it on its side and took apart the hoses, etc. I did find plenty of "Issues" both in the bottom of the drum (gunk going into the black hose going to the pump), the drain line was plugged from hard water, and the outlet line had junk build up. I dutifully cleaned "everything" out and thought I had rectified the situation.
But first load I came back to see that ugly OE error on the front panel. The fabric softener was gone so I ASSume it went through the wash cycle (which would include the spin/pump out cycle) and then began the rinse/spin cycle. I then tried to send it through a quick rinse/spin cycle (19 minutes) and at 13 minutes it just sits there full of water and eventually gives me the OE error. I do NOT hear it attempting to pump out or what I would think......I do seem to hear a humming noise but cannot fully say it is loud and the pump. But if it is the pump, how does it get through the initial washing cycle (again, assuming that completed since my fabric softener is now empty).
So, any help is appreciated.
If there is some line I didn't fully clean that may be an issue let me know:
1) black line under drum - big opening had junk...cleaned - line going towards top of drum (inside black line was plugged) didn't see anything in the white plastic line heading up so I didn't pursue that.
2) removed/cleaned pump inlet that holds the screen - removed pump from this piece and the impeller did not seem loose
3) small drain line allowing you to drain the drum was completely plugged from hard water - fully cleaned
4) drain line out the back had junk in it....fully cleaned and ran snake through it and flushed again
Again, many thanks
#2
Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:40 PM
Most likely a failed DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001D)
Water drains from the tub...
Through the hole at the bottom of the tub (almost never a restriction/blockage will occur here)
Through the black bellows type hose---into the PUMP HOUSING (once-in-a-while a sock may be in this bellows)
From the PUMP HOUSING---through the STRAINER---into the PUMP MOTOR/IMPELLER housing (coins/buttons/pins/bra wire/BBs/lint etc can accumulate in *both* the STRAINER and the IMPELLER area of the PUMP MOTOR).
Drain water is then forced/pushed through the DRAIN HOSE mounted at the top of the PUMP ASSEMBLY. In some cases---rubber-backed bathroom floor mats have disintegrated during the wash cycle and have COMPLETELY plugged the drain system from the entrance to the PUMP HOUSING----to the gray DRAIN HOSE---a solid mass of sandy/rubbery residue.
As the DRAIN HOSE runs from the PUMP HOUSING to the white-plastic (u-shaped) GOOSENECK CONNECTOR (mounted on the rear of the washer)---water reaches the DRAIN STANDPIPE or UTILITUB.
Blockage can occur at the GOOSENECK---and compressed air is most effective at blowing this small connector free of debris.
*********************
<<< I then tried to send it through a quick rinse/spin cycle (19 minutes)>>>
*********************
Try this...
1) Press: POWER Button (wake-up washer)
2) Press "SPIN SPEED" button---set to NO SPIN
3) Push "START/PAUSE" button
Washer will enter DRAIN CYCLE (pump all water from tub---when operating properly) and shut off after one minute.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man, kdog and Comstock_Services like this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#3
Posted 03 January 2012 - 09:41 PM
Insert smart ass remark here____
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#4
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:11 PM
The tub would shake like it was off set and at NO point did I hear the pump try to run. I seemed to stop when I pulled the plug again and a bunch of water/suds came out...the machine then proceeded to spin again and given that I had the filter/plug completely out, it finished the spin cycle.
This pump WAS running BEFORE i took it apart. I remember running it through a cycle and hearing it suck through the filter plug.
I am reading what you responded to above (I posted this PRIOR to seeing your responses - my apologies).
I will try what you stated above and repost.
Edited by Dhum, 03 January 2012 - 10:16 PM.
#5
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:22 PM
****************
It's not unusual at all to find a DRAIN MOTOR that "runs" but is too slow (or the impeller is loosely spinning) to effectively drain the wash water out.
Verify first---that no other restriction/blockage is preventing drain.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man and kdog like this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#6
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:24 PM
I did what you mentioned and I heard the pump seem to run (maybe a little growly but I had the filter plug out).
So I put the machine into a quick rinse/spin cycle to fill it up with water. I then shut it off.
I followed your recommendations, no spin, go....I heard the pump run as normal, and when I checked the output hose it was running at what appeared to be MAX capacity....The washer pumped itself out and then the machine eventually said end and shut off.
Not sure where this leaves me now.
#7
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:27 PM
- kdog likes this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#8
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:30 PM
Should have put that out there to begin with!
#9
Posted 03 January 2012 - 10:34 PM
No Service Bulletins exist.
That leaves the possibility of an intermittently functioning (sometimes works/sometimes not) DRAIN MOTOR.
Try a SPEED WASH cycle (without laundry) to check PUMP MOTOR function/reliability.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man, kdog and Comstock_Services like this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#10
Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:17 PM
I will try a full load with laundry to see what happens.
Thanks
#11
Posted 03 January 2012 - 11:37 PM
If the DRAIN MOTOR fails to function consistently---replace it.
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#12
Posted 04 January 2012 - 01:12 AM
So is there anyway to test the pump other than replacing it?
Also, let me verify the proper pump number as I've seen two different numbers, ones $70+ and the other around $45. I see Part Number: AP4437652 made by LG.
If you believe I will need to replace that, then I will get it coming or is there possibly some other electronics piece not properly running the cycles?
Many thanks to all!
#13
Posted 04 January 2012 - 01:55 AM
<<<The full wash cycle with laundry did fail. I had an OE on it>>>
**********
"OE"====> No Drain---replace DRAIN MOTOR.
LG part number: 4681EA2001D
Appliance Parts Pros part number: AP4437652
**********
<<<this time there was fabric softener remaining>>>
**********
This tells us only that the DRAIN MOTOR failed while attempting to pump out water from the Main Wash (did not advance to the *Rinse* portion of the cycle)---dirty wash water remaining in the tub---triggered an "OE" error. Cycle will *not* advance any further.
**********
<<<is there possibly some other electronics piece not properly running the cycles?>>>
**********
No.
Additionally---there are no SERVICE BULLETINS either---which would indicate/describe *software* issues.
An intermittent DRAIN MOTOR can give the appearance that something else is causing the "OE" error.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man likes this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#14
Posted 04 January 2012 - 11:18 AM
Searching by Model # on the diagram I'm finding item K340 which is AP4437652 so I'm just wanting to verify prior to order as there is a $30 difference in the two - is one complete motor/pump or are you telling me that the cheaper one, while not documented as such, will work in my LG?
I hope I have not offended Master but only seek wisdom!
#15
Posted 04 January 2012 - 02:10 PM
[disregard this post, it's for testing purposes only]
Linking AP4440742:
Part number: AP4440742
Linking 4681EA2001D:
Part number: 4681EA2001D
Linking AP4437652:
Part number: AP4437652
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#16
Posted 07 January 2012 - 02:12 PM
I have also used a note I found somewhere, whereby you hold the soil/spin buttons down, power on the unit - door locks, press start 6 times and it fills with hot water. (first off I put in a little hot water to fill the drain tube and then added either bleach or vinegar to clean the tub and basin, then close the door) The unit fills to maximum with hot water, press start 2 times to start the tub moving and let the machine run like this for a while (that note said 3 hours) to help in clearing up soap and/or hard water deposits. I'd then get soft-chunks to come out of the drain or get caugt in the filter. This is for hard water and also for cleaning up machines in which too much soap has been used over time. When you want to stop it, power down, then power up and run a quick cycle. In my case, seeing as my pump wasn't working and also since this is in a room with a floor drain in front of it, I'd just pull out the drain plug and also the filter port to flush the water while the tub was running figuring this would sooner keep any freed sediment moving and hopefully flushed down the tube. We will add this to our maintenance schedule.
Many thanks to all.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man likes this
#17
Posted 07 January 2012 - 11:09 PM
******************
I don't advise placing the washer on it's side to service it---as the suspension struts can come apart and it is diffifult to re-install them correctly (small friction pads also fall out).
Nevertheless---you've successfully repaired your washer. Good job
Edited by john63, 08 January 2012 - 12:42 AM.
- Samurai Appliance Repair Man and kdog like this
Musty odor
L-O-N-G cycle times
Dingy/yellowing whites
Suds error message
Slow spin speeds
Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)
And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.
Read below:
The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load
HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon
Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.
Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"
#18
Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:37 AM
I had requested a service document but didn't get any replies so I'm not sure how to take the front panel off (which is the way I assume it should be done).
If somebody has some tips on how to take this unit apart to at least access these items, I'd appreciate that so I do not mess anything up in the future.
Recent blog entries on this topic
How to fix an LG washer that won't pump out and throws an OE error code
By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 04 January 2012 - 10:34 AMMost likely a failed DRAIN MOTOR, part number...
Read Full Entry →
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