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Frigidaire GLTF2940ES0 won't go into high speed spin

14 posts in this topic

My washer had a problem I've had (and successfully fixed) several times before. E20 error code, and something stuck in the "boot" trap. This time, the problem wasn't entirely fixed.

On the drain/spin cycle, it did not enter into the high speed spin, and the towel I used to clean up was still soaking wet at the end. I did the cycle again, and with 2 minutes on the timer left, it managed to get itself into a high speed spin.

Thinking I could troubleshoot a bad impeller, I removed the hoses on both sides of the drain pump again, and checked the impeller and all lines for blockage. The impeller spun freely, and nothing else was left in there. I plugged it in disassembled to observe if the impeller would spin, and to see if the washer would kick into spin immediately or not. Impeller had no problems rotating, but no luck with the spin cycle. I am suspecting this part may be the problem: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/134762000/1258528

Any thoughts on how I should tackle this or if I'm on the right track?

Thanks!

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Is the tub empty of water when the spin cycle is supposed to start?

Another check I like to do on the drain system is watch the discharge stream out the hose. Should be full-bore and turbulent flow. If it comes out and tapers right off, you have a blockage somewhere or a bad pump ==> Drain Pump and Motor

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Okay, did some more troubleshooting. I took a drinking straw and attached it to the disconnected air hose. By the 9 minute mark on the 13 minute drain/spin cycle, I sucked air out of the straw, then bent it to maintain the negative pressure. High speed spin started shortly, and when the straw was released, it stopped shortly after. Repeating had the same effect.

Hooking it all back together, I hoped everything would work, but alas, it wasn't so. My guess is the sock damaged the pump and/or impeller, and it isn't pumping water out fast enough, nor creating enough negative pressure to activate the pressure switch.

New pump time?

Is the tub empty of water when the spin cycle is supposed to start? Another check I like to do on the drain system is watch the discharge stream out the hose. Should be full-bore and turbulent flow. If it comes out and tapers right off, you have a blockage somewhere or a bad pump ==> Drain Pump and Motor

Yes, the tub appears empty by the time high speed spin should begin. My guess is it might be the pump/impeller. Is this repairable, or simply a part to be replaced?

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Okay, did some more troubleshooting. I took a drinking straw and attached it to the disconnected air hose. By the 9 minute mark on the 13 minute drain/spin cycle, I sucked air out of the straw, then bent it to maintain the negative pressure.

Could you post a photo of the air hose you're referring to?

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The air hose that I'm referring to is this one here:

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hose-Tube-or-Fitting/134369900/1154724?modelNumber=GLTF2940ES0

On the top side, I believe (but haven't actually seen) that it is connected to this part: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Pressure-Switch/134762000/1258528?modelNumber=GLTF2940ES0

On the bottom side, it is connected to this:http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hose/134369000/1154720?modelNumber=GLTF2940ES0 , which in turn is connected to the boot: http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Hose-Tube-or-Fitting/134455900/1154844?modelNumber=GLTF2940ES0

As additional background, I did retrieve an adult sized sock inside the boot, the largest item I have ever seen caught in there, and it was partly mangled from the impeller. Once I get this puppy fixed, is there a way to modify the machine so that no more items end up inside the boot? I can't even see how they get in there in the first place.

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Okay, let's summarize where we be. Please verify that this is accurate:

- No error codes at present.

- The washer does pump out normally and the drum is empty of water when it's time for the spin cycle.

- The drum does tumble but it does not do high speed spin.

If all the above are true then the following conclusions may be drawn:

- The pressure switch you referred to in your first post has nothing to do with the problem, neither does the tubing that attaches to the pump suction boot (the accordion looking one).

- The pump and drain system are working properly.

Proceeding, then, your homework assignment is the following:

- Read this post ==> http://appliantology...nt-load-washer/

- Retrieve the tech sheet from behind the kickplate (you probably came across it in your travels) and begin the troubleshooting procedure for no-spin problems.

Usually, and with alarming frequency, this problem comes down to either

- a bad motor control board ==> Motor Control Board

- or a bad door switch assembly ==> Door Switch Assembly

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That is correct, but with one little variation:

If I run the drain/spin cycle consecuctively for 2 or 3 times, then high speed spin eventually does come on, but this is far later than it should. High speed spin also comes on when I trick the pressure switch by disconnecting the air tube and sucking air out of it manually. That seems to imply a problem with not enough of a vacuum being created or water draining too slowly to activate the pressure switch. While no water is visible in the tub at the end of the cycle, if I remove the boot, some usually spills out of the tub and boot, unless I've done several consecutive drain/spins, in which case, there is minimal water..

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have you done a visual on the Pump Impeller ?

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That's an air PRESSURE tube that you're putting the lip lock on and applying vacuum to. If the pressure switch wasn't the problem before, it sure may be now and you may be replacing it along with whatever the real underlying problem is.

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I've done a visual on the impeller. It looks okay, and seems to run fine.

As for the pressure switch, the vacuum I applied wasn't all that hard. I may be wrong, but the design appears to look for a drop in pressure to activate the ability to enter into the high speed spin mode.

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I may be wrong, but the design appears to look for a drop in pressure to activate the ability to enter into the high speed spin mode.

Almost. It's a relative pressure drop from when the suction boot and drum were full of water. It senses that pressure resulting from the presence of water and actuates internal switches. When the water is pumped out, the resulting water level drop decreases the pressure back to atmospheric. At no point is a vacuum ever created in this process and this switch is not designed to operate in a negative pressure environment.

The key here, I think, is that fact that there's still enough water in the boot to maintain the pressure high enough that the pressure switch doesn't toggle and allow spin.

Re-evaluate the pump-out discharge stream as I described earlier.

You're the eyes on the scene there not us. So the way it works here is: garbage in, garbage out. Our advice is only as good as what you give us as the facts of the situation.

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Will do. When I get home, I'll bring in a garbage bin, and have the washer drain into that so I can evaluate the stream. Hopefully I can conclusively determine it's the pump that needs replacement.

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So I tested the drain flow and it came out full force. I paused the cycle to reconnect the hose to the drain pipe and started it up. Everything for the rest of the cycle functioned perfectly. Somehow sitting for a day helped.

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if you disconnect the "Pressure Hose"

the Tub may need to be completely empty of Water before re-connecting

(for "empty" reference )

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