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Whirlpool Gas DryerLGR7646EZ2 intermittent heat, long dry times


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3 replies to this topic

#1 Matt_In_Michigan

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 01:31 PM

My gas dryer was heating intermittently. It would dry a load of clothes, but it took forever. I started out armed with my knowledge, and my trusty multimeter. First thing to check, venting. Nothing clogged, no holes, no kinks. Opened up the cabinet, tested the valve, coils, and radiant sensor. They all passed. Ignitor, no continuity. Yes, I did remove them from their circuits before testing them.

Thought about it for a moment, and it made sense. Ignitor element gets hot, small crack begins to separate, operating t-stat calls for heat, small crack keeps ignitor from passing current until it cools enough to contract and close the open circuit. Cools, operating t-stat call for heat, current passes, heats up, and keeps cycling like this.

Replaced the ignitor, worked like new!

Warmed up a blanket for the princess last night, and it came out toasty warm. This morning, nothing! The ignitor won't even glow. I'm sure the thermal fuse blew after the dryer started to overheat, which leads me to believe it was the operating thermostat and a bad ignitor that was my problem. However, the blown thermal fuse leads me to believe it might be the high-limit t-stat also.

I haven't torn it apart to check for sure, but once I test the 3 suspect components- operating t-stat, high-limit t-stat, and thermal fuse I'll know for sure. I'll always remember to test ALL components and not just the first bad one I come to!

My 2 biggest questions are;
  • Meter's don't lie. Was my ignitor logic correct, and was it just hiding the upcoming failure of whichever t-stat is bad?
  • Is it possible this is another mis-direction?

Thanks in advance,


Matt
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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 01:55 PM

... tested the valve, coils,
... Ignitor, no continuity.

1) Gas Valve Coils may pass the resistance tests, but they get weak when they get "old"
2) Ignitor may have 400 OHMs to 1000 OHMs or more of resistance
.

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#3 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 02:09 PM

First thing to check, venting. Nothing clogged, no holes, no kinks.
.
.
.
I'm sure the thermal fuse blew after the dryer started to overheat, which leads me to believe it was the operating thermostat and a bad ignitor that was my problem. However, the blown thermal fuse leads me to believe it might be the high-limit t-stat also.



Run that "overheating" by me again-- how did you determine the dryer was overheating? Monitoring exhaust temperatures is the only way to prove this. Were you doing that? Or are you just assuming it was overheating because the thermal fuse blew?

About the vent, here's your new mantra:

A dryer vent can be free of lint and still be bad.

A dryer vent can be free of lint and still be bad.

A dryer vent can be free of lint and still be bad.

Grok ye ==> http://fixitnow.com/...-venting-guide/

#4 Matt_In_Michigan

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Posted 07 January 2012 - 08:59 PM

Replaced the blown thermal fuse and operating thermostat. She seems to be running right, again-So far. :lol: Only time and overloading will tell.


Fermented Master,

The only vent problems I have are when the mother-in-law decides to clean behind the dryer, and shimmies it out until the semi-rigid aluminum breaks or kinks. She hasn't done that since I replaced the ignitor, and cleaned out the cabinet last weekend. Where do you think I learned my knowledge of dryer venting from? Yup, that very same link you posted, many moons ago.

http://fixitnow.com/...-venting-guide/

Perhaps the overheating conclusion was a bit of a leap, but something caused the thermal fuse to blow.

Reg.,

I searched here and everywhere and found the specs. for my ignitor's resistance. Sorry, should have mentioned previously. It had no continuity and did not register under any of the other ranges of resistance, either.

I don't know that it's not the coils. :whistling:

I don't believe they have every been replaced, and according to my serial number- MH2303686- it was built in 1998. So, I guess it could be them.

http://www.electrica...lDateCodes.html

Thanks again,

Matt
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