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I WANNA BE THE SUB ZERO HERO! 632/S EC 24 ERROR CODE!

16 posts in this topic

Subzero 632/S EC 24 error code and "service" flashes on console. The evap coil is already at the customer's house. I vacuumed the condenser coils as per instructed on Z Youtube.com. EC 24= Defroster underheat. What should I do next? What should I ohm/check? Thanks! I WANNA BE THE SUB ZERO HERO!!!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

What exactly is the problem? not cooling or not defrosting?

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24 EC Defrost Underheat

a. Check for proper ohm readings of defrost heater. Replace heater if defective.

b. Check for proper mounting and location of freezer evaporator thermistor and defrost heater. Remount correctly.

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Sorry, yeah, its not cooling (The fridge side) Freezer side works fine, client had a previous tech come out to look at it and they didn't even open up the back and somehow diagnosed it as the evap coils being bad.....

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What is the FF temp?

Check the evaporator fan motor.

Check the thermister 30,000 to 33,000 ohms at 32 degrees.

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The fridge side is reading a warm 60 degrees..... the freezer is working just fine.

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The fridge side is reading a warm 60 degrees..... the freezer is working just fine.

24 EC Defrost Underheat . . . refers to the Freezer Defrost Heater.

The Fridge side doesn't use a Defrost Heater.

Does the Fridge Compressor run "forever" ?

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EC 24 can refer to either side. It is a warm defrost temp. Computer will sense warm temp on ref evap thermistor due to partial frost pattern while cabinet thermistor is satisfied and give an EC 24. Check ref frost pattern and pressure.

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24 EC Defrost Underheat . . . refers to the Freezer Defrost Heater.

The Fridge side doesn't use a Defrost Heater.

Does the Fridge Compressor run "forever" ?

I'm not sure, but the condenser fan to the right of the compressor which blows onto the condenser does..... it was ALWAYS on when I was there.....

EC 24 can refer to either side. It is a warm defrost temp. Computer will sense warm temp on ref evap thermistor due to partial frost pattern while cabinet thermistor is satisfied and give an EC 24. Check ref frost pattern and pressure.

so, take the back panel off of the fridge side and look for the frost pattern? How do I check the pressure?

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If prior to s# 1800000 it will have a valve on compressor. If not you will need to install one.

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I'm not sure, but the condenser fan to the right of the compressor which blows onto the condenser does..... it was ALWAYS on when I was there.....

If either compressor is running, a signal is sent to the condenser fan relay on the control board to close, supplying power to the condenser fan.
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If either compressor is running, a signal is sent to the condenser fan relay on the control board to close, supplying power to the condenser fan.

Yeah the condenser fan is running non stop....... soooo........ sealed system leak on the fridge side?

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... sealed system leak on the fridge side?

... Does the Fridge Compressor run "forever" ?

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Sorry, yeah, its not cooling (The fridge side) Freezer side works fine, client had a previous tech come out to look at it and they didn't even open up the back and somehow diagnosed it as the evap coils being bad.....

They knew the coil history on these units.

many times you do not need to be hit in the head with a brick to know it hurts.

Edited by jumptrout
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Okay trout, I want to replace the coils, what do I do? PM me.

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You said the E-coil is already at their house.

Replace the bad coil with the one at their house.

Personally,I would charge the systen with nitrogen and check for a leak to confirm the diagnosis or I would pull a vacuum on the system to confirm a leak.

Then,if a leak is verified I would replace the filter drier,the coil,pull a vacuum,recharge the unit collect a check and go to the next call.

If no leak is verified,I would replace the filter drier,recharge etc,etc.

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