20 replies to this topic

[RachelCobia]

My washing machine seemed to start spinning before it had completely drained. The basin had a lot of water in it, causing the machine to struggle to spin, obviously. I am concerned about it completely wearing out. We were told to check for an obstruction in the tube as it might not be draining properly. No problems there. The water gushes out just like it always has.

After paying closer attention, I discovered that it starts to spin and drain at the same time. It does this on all cycles. It seems to me that the timing of the cycle steps is off. Do I need a new washer timer?

Please help!
Rachel

[RegUS_PatOff]

.... Do I need a new washer timer?

not for this scenario ...
If the room temperature is lower than 60F, the Transmission oil may be too thick, and cause your problem,
OR a small part inside the Transmission may be bad.

[RachelCobia]

Can I fix that? Or do I need a new machine all together?

[washertech26]

A new transmission.. Me I would just let it go not worth the expense since it is working... In other words run it till it dies

Edited by washertech26, 13 January 2012 - 06:07 PM.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

I must respectfully disagree with my esteemed college, Master washertech. These are good machines and you're not going to be replacing it with anything near as rugged and durable for the money you paid for this one. Repairing this machine makes good economic sense.

Part link ==> Transmission

And how to replace it...

[jumptrout]

I concur with The Fermented Grand Master.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

P.S. I would hasten to add that, again IMHO, the economics are especially indisputable if you're going to do the repair yourself because you're only paying for the part.

[RussTech]

If you feel up to it, that transmission is rebuildable. You probably need the neutral assembly.

Edited by RussTech, 13 January 2012 - 10:09 PM.

[certified tech group 51]

P/N..388253 is still available ( neutral assy. ) ...The gasket sealant is not available ( $35 a tube ) ...Just use regular silicone RTV.you do not need much, a thin coat will do........

[RussTech]

I thought about the whole new machine, vs new gearcase, vs rebuild last night. New machine gets kicked out the window immediately. You have a really sturdy machine their. The wpl direct drive is a 20+ year old system. Its simple and pragmatic and made to be worked on. If I was you, I would without a doubt, repair this machine.
That brings us to the whole, rebuild vs new gearcase, and after much reflection, I have to recommend the new gearcase. Why? If the neutral assembly has broken, that machine has put in some work. Period. Your going to find other parts that are worn out and need replacing when you take that gearcase apart. And yeah, youll have a new neutral assembly when your done, if you put it back together correctly. But everything left in the gearcase will still be worn. How long until something else fails? How long until your rebuilding that guy again? Don't you have better stuff to do?
I recommend you replace that gearcase in its entirety. You'll get WAY MORE LIFE OUTTA HER THAT WAY. Just do it.
Part number: 3360629

[RachelCobia]

Thanks to everyone. I really appreciate this! I totally agree. I want to keep this machine as long as possible as I have heard from many people "they don't make em like they used to"

I don't know anything about this subject really, but I'm surprised to hear that I need a new transmission. Is there no chance it's the washer timer? It seems like many more problems would have popped up with a bad transmission besides the drain and spin happening at the same time. But if this is it, then out it goes. I'm also curious if I will ruin anything else by continuing to run it until the part comes and it can be swapped out. Thanks again.

[jumptrout]

At the beginning of the SPIN cycle how long does the unit drain (exact time) before the PAUSE in the timer and the spinning actually starts?

[RegUS_PatOff]

here's what it should do:
After Agitation stops, the Washer Motor (not the Transmission) should run and Drain the Water.
(is this what's happening, or does it start to Spin while Drainning) ?

After Drain, then the Timer should pause the Washer Motor for a few seconds,
When the Washer Motor starts again, it should go into the Spin cycle.

[RachelCobia]

I kept the lid open during the cycle by holding the lid switch down with a screwdriver. On the delicate cycle (I chose this because it's shorter, but the machine has the problem on all cycles) this is what happens:
fills with water
agitates for several minutes
pauses for about 6 seconds while the timer is clicking audibly moving to the next step in the cycle
the agitator turns maybe an inch or two, acting like it's going to start spinning but pauses a second time for maybe 2 seconds
then it starts to spin and drain at the same time
It seems it is completely skipping over the drain step. I think the only reason it is draining is because it is spinning.

[RachelCobia]

ps...our machine hose empties into a large sink that stands next to the washing machine. So I can see that there is absolutely no draining happening until it begins to spin.

[RegUS_PatOff]

sounds like that bad part inside the Transmission...
After a few minutes of Spin w/ Drain, does the Timer pause again for a few seconds,
then Spins and Drains again ?

Actually, the "older" (pre 1982) Whirlpool Washer Transmissions did actually Spin & Drain at the same time,
but Whirlpool changed the Transmission design to relieve the stress on the Transmission.

[RachelCobia]

ok. more info

Just tried the "normal" cycle. It appears to be fine this time. No clue what is going on.
Tried the "casual" or permanent press cycle. Here's what it does:
Fills with water
agitates for several minutes
drains without spinning until maybe 4-5 inches of water are left. Pauses for almost a minute.
Starts filling with water again, even though there was 4-5 inches in it already.
Agitates again
Drains for a few seconds until about 2/3 of the water is left, then starts spinning until the rest of the water is out.
Stops.
Spins again with an empty basin.
**The second time it filled with water was BEFORE the rinse cycle. So the machine filled a total of 3 times.
Filled with water for a third time.
Agitated.
Drained completely without spinning.
Spun while rinsing, as normal.
Finished the cycle.
GENTLE CYCLE runs as I described before. YES it does drain and spin at the same time. Stops. Then spins again with an empty basin.
Fills for a second time.
Agitates.
Drains completely without spinning.
Then spins while rinsing and completes cycle.

[RegUS_PatOff]

... YES it does drain and spin at the same time. Stops. Then spins again with an empty basin.

bad (intermittent) part in the Transmission

[jumptrout]

ok. more info

Just tried the "normal" cycle. It appears to be fine this time. No clue what is going on.
Tried the "casual" or permanent press cycle. Here's what it does:
Fills with water
agitates for several minutes
drains without spinning until maybe 4-5 inches of water are left. Pauses for almost a minute.
Starts filling with water again, even though there was 4-5 inches in it already.
Agitates again
Drains for a few seconds until about 2/3 of the water is left, then starts spinning until the rest of the water is out.
Stops.
Spins again with an empty basin.
**The second time it filled with water was BEFORE the rinse cycle. So the machine filled a total of 3 times.
Filled with water for a third time.
Agitated.
Drained completely without spinning.
Spun while rinsing, as normal.
Finished the cycle.
GENTLE CYCLE runs as I described before. YES it does drain and spin at the same time. Stops. Then spins again with an empty basin.
Fills for a second time.
Agitates.
Drains completely without spinning.
Then spins while rinsing and completes cycle.

What you describe in these sequences is NORMAL operation for these cycles.

[RachelCobia]

Grand Master Funk - do you recommend changing just the part, or do you think I would be better off replacing the whole transmission?