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WHDSR209D6WW GE Washing Machine won't agitate

WHDSB209D6WW Washer GE Washer

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5 replies to this topic

#1 Nick Gill

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:03 PM

I've got a GE 209 Series washing machine. It suddenly stopped agitating about a week ago. it spins and drains fine, and the belt is attached and motor is spinning. it simply will not agitate.

I removed the agitator, everything lines up just fine. no teeth broken. I removed the agitator bell (ball?) attached witht he 7/16 hex bolt, and it is not missing any teeth or bindings. I put it all back together, and unplugged the unit from the wall for 3 minutes, plugged it back in, and attempted the factory reset by opening and closing the (magnetic) lid 12 times in 10 seconds. This got the washing machine to make the NOISE as though it was agitating, however, a peer in with the lid just part way up, and I noticed that the agitator is just not spinning in the way it is supposed to.

I've got the front taken off, and looking at the motor, and the belt, its spinning.

Main question: What do i do next to diagnose what is wrong?

Side questions:

1) How do I keep the lid open without interrupting any cycles so that I may watch more closely from inside the tub?

2) Are there any angles or locations inside the washing machine I should take pictures of or video of, or specific cycles that I should pay attention to or record and post back onto here so that you all might see?

3) I have a voltage meter and can use it to diagnose any particulars if you can guide me in the right direction. Is there anywhere I should be checking for voltage or continuity?

Thank you,

Nick

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#2 Nick Gill

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 09:22 PM

OKay, so it turns out that it is actually a WHDSR209D6WW model number. that lower portion of the R was hidden by the top portion of the control panel.

#3 Nick Gill

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 10:15 PM

Update:
I've got the front panel, top lid assembly, brackets, etc all removed.

i'm trying to remove the Transmission hub nut. How do i do this?

I've got a Crescent wrench that expands to the 1 11/16 it needs in order to turn it. I see that it says Loosen to the left, implying it is a left handed nut. But my crescent wrench that is big enough to get around is too long to get at a good enough angle to provide any torque in order to take the darn thing off. Should I be using something other than a crescent wrench? Perhaps a 2" Crescent wrench with a smaller handle? (I don't really want to go out and buy a 20 dollar crescent wrench if I'm just going to have to replace a 200 dollar motor/transmission or clutch, when i can just go ahead and buy a brand new washer for 300 dollars).


Thank you.

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 14 January 2012 - 11:22 PM

Due to the higher rpm of this model, the 1-11/16 in. hub nut securing the tub is made of Stainless Steel and must be torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
If the hub nut is removed, it must be tightened to 150 ft. lbs.
If the hub nut wrench (PN WX5X1325) is used to tighten the hub nut, the wrench must be struck with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer until it will not tighten any further.
This may take 30 to 50 hits with a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer.
To be certain that the nut will not tighten any further, align the spanner wrench with the holes in the basket and use them as a guide to determine that the nut will not move when the hub nut wrench is struck.
Impact wrenches are set to more than 150 ft lbs and should tighten the nut sufficiently.

The 1-11/16 in. hub nut is Stainless Steel and has been torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
• The word “LOOSEN” and an arrow appear on the hub nut.
Turn clockwise to remove.

Caution: Use only a rubber mallet, dead blow hammer, or impact wrench to remove the hub nut.
Use of a steel head hammer may result in damage to the spin basket.
Remove the left-handed, stainless steel hub nut using a spanner wrench and a rubber mallet or
dead blow hammer, or an impact wrench.

Note: Hub nut must be tightened to 150 ft. lbs.when reinstalling,
.

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#5 Nick Gill

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 12:55 AM

Well, at least I now know how to completely take apart the washer. Irony is that I didn't look far enough down the Agitator Coupling Bell to realize that it was completely stripped out. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be, and the grime buildup gave the illusion that the splines were all still there.

Now I'll need to find a local parts retailer, hopefully one open on Sunday.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 15 January 2012 - 02:55 AM

... My eyes aren't as good as they used to be
... I'll need to find a local parts retailer, hopefully one open on Sunday.

My eyesight isn't as good as it once was, either
Posted Image(see RegUS_PatOff )

Don't forget to use RepairClinic next time, for major purchases
It helps keep the lights ON,
(so we can all see better) :whistling:
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Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: WHDSB209D6WW, Washer, GE Washer



Recent blog entries on this topic

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Tips for removing & reinstalling the hub nut in a GE top loading washer

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 15 January 2012 - 07:22 AM


Due to the higher rpm of this model, the 1-11/16 in. hub nut securing the tub is made of Stainless Steel and must be torqued to 150 ft. lbs.
If the hub nut is removed, it must be tightened to 150 ft. lbs.
If the hub nut wrench...

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