fisher paykel gwl15 washer it will wash fine when it gets to the rinse cycle it stops code reads #37
Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:04 AM
Posted 15 January 2012 - 02:24 PM
For a better diagnostic, you need to observe the operation. The lid locks, so a way around it is to raise the entire top with the lid remaining closed/locked. Open the lid, carefully pry out the lid bumpers at the front corners, remove the screws beneath. Close the lid, start a Regular cycle (no detergent needed). Raise the top and watch the progress to the point the fault occurs.
It should fill a little while the basket rotates at 25 RPM. Then fill will stop, the pump turns on and water recirculates/showers into the basket via the recirculation port at top right/rear of the tub. A little more water may fill in via the fill flume to "top-off" the recirculation level.
Recirculation stops after a few mins and it fills rest of the way (to either an auto-sensed water level or whatever manual level you select) for an agitated wash. You can let it auto-sense for the test run, or select Low directly.
At end of the agitated wash, the water should drain and it proceeds into the spin, shower rinse, and final spin sequences. If any water recirculates back into the tub during the drain period after agitated wash, then you have a clogged or bad diverter valve, not a bad pump.
Posted 15 January 2012 - 03:59 PM
Posted 15 January 2012 - 09:07 PM
Posted 16 January 2012 - 06:41 AM
Posted 16 January 2012 - 01:47 PM
Disconnect power, and maybe also the water hoses. Remove the lid, lid bumpers, and two screws. Raise the top, have a helper hold it up while you work. Unclip the bias spring from the left-front suspension strut. Unclip the ring/cover atop the tub and remove it. Pull the softener dispenser, unscrew the wingnut down inside and take out the agitator. The basket now should simply lift off the drive shaft and out of the tub. There's a cover in the tub sump over the drain/pump outlet, could be it's clogged.
Don't be concerned by the sound/feel of water sloshing inside the basket, it has gyroscopic balance rings at the top and bottom that are partially filled with water and sealed. Outside of the basket is sharp where the perfs are punched through from inside.
Don't forget to reattach the bias spring to the suspension strut when reassembling.
If the basket is ornery to come out, removing the three screws and basket hub piece may help. Pay attention how the inner cog and hub cover are arranged ... common mistake to reassemble them wrong.
Posted 16 January 2012 - 06:07 PM
Posted 17 January 2012 - 04:44 PM
the new pump came with a fuse which we have also checkeked and it is fine the pump spins free when i spin it also like i said the diagnostic code now comes up the red light and first 3 green lights it is no longer reading code 37
Posted 18 January 2012 - 02:48 PM
Posted 18 January 2012 - 06:53 PM
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