Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now or use the parts search box:

Parts Search

Learn appliance repair at online the Master Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

FAQs | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Podcast | Contact

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
wbdriver32

fisher paykel gwl15 washer it will wash fine when it gets to the rinse cycle it stops code reads #37

11 posts in this topic

i have replaced the pump worked great for 2 loads now it wont go into rinse cycle again the code is #37

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Why'd you replace the pump, what was the evidence it needed replacement?

For a better diagnostic, you need to observe the operation. The lid locks, so a way around it is to raise the entire top with the lid remaining closed/locked. Open the lid, carefully pry out the lid bumpers at the front corners, remove the screws beneath. Close the lid, start a Regular cycle (no detergent needed). Raise the top and watch the progress to the point the fault occurs.

It should fill a little while the basket rotates at 25 RPM. Then fill will stop, the pump turns on and water recirculates/showers into the basket via the recirculation port at top right/rear of the tub. A little more water may fill in via the fill flume to "top-off" the recirculation level.

Recirculation stops after a few mins and it fills rest of the way (to either an auto-sensed water level or whatever manual level you select) for an agitated wash. You can let it auto-sense for the test run, or select Low directly.

At end of the agitated wash, the water should drain and it proceeds into the spin, shower rinse, and final spin sequences. If any water recirculates back into the tub during the drain period after agitated wash, then you have a clogged or bad diverter valve, not a bad pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

now it will not drain at all in any cycle it never takes any water out and the new diagnosis code shows the first 4 lights are on it no longer is showing code #37

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if it isn't too full: unplug it and lean it back to gently see it you can turn the pump fan by hand. If not something is blocking it. Common on this machine. Drain it all the way, drop the pump and take a look. For peace of mind I often pull the basket out and look for anything that is under the basket waiting to ruin your day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we pulled pump all clear pulled diverter valve all clear in all hoses how do i go about pulling basket is that the tub?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The basket is the stainless steel container inside the tub. Also referred to as the "bowl" in F&P service material.

Disconnect power, and maybe also the water hoses. Remove the lid, lid bumpers, and two screws. Raise the top, have a helper hold it up while you work. Unclip the bias spring from the left-front suspension strut. Unclip the ring/cover atop the tub and remove it. Pull the softener dispenser, unscrew the wingnut down inside and take out the agitator. The basket now should simply lift off the drive shaft and out of the tub. There's a cover in the tub sump over the drain/pump outlet, could be it's clogged.

Don't be concerned by the sound/feel of water sloshing inside the basket, it has gyroscopic balance rings at the top and bottom that are partially filled with water and sealed. Outside of the basket is sharp where the perfs are punched through from inside.

Don't forget to reattach the bias spring to the suspension strut when reassembling.

If the basket is ornery to come out, removing the three screws and basket hub piece may help. Pay attention how the inner cog and hub cover are arranged ... common mistake to reassemble them wrong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok basket off all cleaned out in there still no draining

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Basic question: Does the pump run?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no i do not her anything

the new pump came with a fuse which we have also checkeked and it is fine the pump spins free when i spin it also like i said the diagnostic code now comes up the red light and first 3 green lights it is no longer reading code 37

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try running the pump via Diagnostic Mode to confirm it doesn't work, and/or check for voltage at the pump terminals when it should be running. No voltage = either bad wiring harness (trouble with splicing in the fuse?), or a bad controller board ... or I suppose a bum new pump.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok washer fixed it was broken wire to the pimp thsnk you so much for walking me through i never would have figured it out you couldnt see that it was broken but no volts on one side of the plug that conects to pump again thank you for all your help

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0