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kenmore 417.27182703 commercial washer won't spin


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17 replies to this topic

#1 KurbyMstr

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 06:03 PM

I'm needing some help on a Kenmore commercial washer that doesn't spin. It's a Frigidaire frontload, with a mechanical timer. I've searched the laundry forum, but haven't found what would help with a commercial. The washer fills, agitates, and drains properly. I've checked the door switch and both the coil and wax motor are working and closing both switches. I know about the motor control board, but I'm not sure what to look for from the board to motor, and from the board to the mechanical timer. I have no wiring diagrahm for this unit and I'm not sure which Frigidaire model will work for it. Another company looked at it before me, but was going to charge another $800 to pinpoint the problem. Any help will be much appreciated.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 07:51 PM

... Another company looked at it before me, but was going to charge another $800 to pinpoint the problem.

:woot:
what company was that ?

Does it Tuimble ?
Does it try to Spin at all ?

Kenmore 417.27182703 made by Frigidaire
134969900.pdf wiring diagram
5995550430.pdf Parts List & diagrams
links PM'd
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#3 KurbyMstr

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 08:11 PM

It does tumble, it doesn't try to spin at all. The drain pump stays on until the end of the cycle. It's draining properly, I cleaned out the filter/catch and hose to pump because of the complaint of a noise. I think they were just hearing the pump running and it wasn't spinning.

The company is a local mom and pop place that sell's used appliances.

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 08:23 PM

During Spin, is the Door locked ?
Is it really locked ?
If so, then un-plug Poer Cord from Wall Outlet.
Can you then open the Door right away, (Bad Door Lock Assembly)
OR only after a few minutes ?

There is a "Test Connector" (somewhere) that you can bypass the Door Lock Switch for testing.
.

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#5 KurbyMstr

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 09:24 PM

Door is really locked during the cycle and only opens after a few minutes after being unplugged. If I bypass the door switch and it still doesn't spin is it definitely the speed control board then? Doesn't the mechanical timer need to close its contacts for spin also? If the door switch is good then I still need a wiring diagram or more information to pinpoint the problem. Thanks Reg for the help!

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 10:35 PM

Remove the bottom panel in front and get the tech sheet in the envelope. Have schematic and diagnostic procedure for the this problem. If you're absolutely certain the door latch is good, then disconnect/reconnect all the wire harnesses on the door latch, motor, and motor control board. It's a good idea to use a dab of conductive grease on these connections, too, because they've been so problematic.

#7 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 10:41 PM

... I still need a wiring diagram or more information to pinpoint the problem.


134969900.pdf wiring diagram
5995550430.pdf Parts List & diagrams
links PM'd


.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#8 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 20 January 2012 - 11:46 PM

Kurbs, it looks like we both missed the Grand
Master's note that he PMed those goodies! Check your PM inbox-- upper right hand corner of f your screen.

#9 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 07:30 AM

Also, don't forget to check for a missing magnet in the dispenser drawer, (I believe those commercial mechanical timer models have the magnet and reed switch to confirm dispenser drawer is shut).

If door lock/latch is working correctly and you at least get a slow speed back and forth tumble the motor control board isn't usually the problem, (usually a bad motor control board won't get a tumble or spin).

EDITED TO ADD: I just looked at the wiring diagram and parts list, that model does have the magnet and reed switch to signal that the dispenser drawer is shut but it appear that if the reed switch fails or the magnet falls out that you wouldn't be getting any water fills and most likely no tumble either.

Edited by Budget Appliance Repair, 21 January 2012 - 07:51 AM.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#10 RTEXASS13

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 09:22 AM

i have had this problem 2 days ago with sam machine, would agitate and drain water but would not spin. replaced motor cont board and it's working fine

#11 KurbyMstr

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 11:04 AM

Thanks to all for the information, and thanks Reg for the tech sheet and repair parts list. I don't believe the other tech that looked at is a member here, or anywhere. The customer was told it could be 3 different things and it would cost an additional $800 to pinpoint the problem. That's ridicoulus.

#12 richseattle56

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 08:08 PM

134149220 maufacturer part number. Motor control unit. http://www.repaircli...4149220/1206430 This is common in the Frigidaire made machines.

Edited by richseattle56, 22 January 2012 - 08:10 PM.


#13 KurbyMstr

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 06:31 PM

I'm back with more info on this problem. I used the diagrams provided by Grand Master Reg, and went through step by step and recorded my readings. The only irregularities I found was 30V where I should have 0V, and when reading resistance on the 6 pin connector I read around 6 meg ohms where there should be around 3. So as per the tech sheet I replaced the control board. So today I went back with a new control board. I grounded myself before pulling out the new board, installed it, set the timer to spin, and it started to spin...slowly. I watched as it spun slowly and then it stopped. At this point I got the tech sheets back out and went through and rediagnosed the washer.

Here's what I found, Timer contacts ok, door switch ok, control relay ok, motor turns freely and resistance checks ok, The difference in voltage from previous trip is 16V where I was getting 30V, still isn't 0V. And I read 25 meg ohms where I should have around 3. Looked like I recieved a bad board. I don't know why it spun a little, never reached full speed and stopped. I removed the new board and put the original back in. When I double checked the resistance on this board I was getting around 3 meg ohms where I should be. Don't know why it changed, could've been me disconnecting and reconnecting wiring. So I went ahead and decided to let it run through a cycle while I serviced some other units in the laundry room. Before it completed the cycle with no spin, pump running continously. This time it filled, agitated, and then just drained without advancing into rinse. I removed the suds buildup, tenants apparently love using to much and not reading signs posted. It never did advance. And so here I am again.

I know it could still just be a bad speed control board, I went back and checked things to see if I missed something that could be messing up the board. I didn't find anything. Am I missing something here. If more information is needed I can provide what all the readings were as per the tech sheet with the 7 items for a motor that won't run. Sorry for the long paragraphs and thanks for the help.

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 06:41 PM

... voltage from previous trip is 16V where I was getting 30V, still isn't 0V.
... door switch ok,

1) which step ? Which Pins ?
2) during Spin, is the Door locked ?
is it really locked ?
If so, then remove the Power Cord from the Wall Outlet.
Can you then open the Door right away ?
OR only after a few minutes ?
.

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#15 KurbyMstr

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 07:40 PM

Step 4- Pin 5 on six pin connector to pins 1,2, & 10 on the ten pin connector is 120V, which it should be, pin 5 on six pin connector to pin 6 on ten pin connector is16V.
Continuing with step 4, with voltages not correct I checked the timer contacts 1c to 1b, 3c to 3b, and 7c to 7b for closed contacts-all three were closed. I checked 5c to 5b for open contacts- it was open. There could be a bad contact at 5c to 5b for me to get voltage between pin 5 on the six pin connector to pin 6 on the ten pin connector. By bad I mean arching enough to let voltage thru, but not arching enough to weld the contacts closed.

The door is locked, and will not open right away. The door is locked when in spin. It takes a few minutes after being unplugged. I know that it is really locked because I pulled on the door to make sure and not because a light is on. Not sure why there's bold emphasis on really, right away, and a few minutes.

Edited by KurbyMstr, 01 February 2012 - 07:58 PM.


#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:07 PM

... arching enough to let voltage thru, but not arching enough to weld the contacts closed.
... Not sure why there's bold emphasis on really, right away, and a few minutes.
... I pulled on the door to make sure and not because a light is on.

1) since the Connector is disconnected, there's no-load, and any moisture can be enough to give a false reading... Frigidiare :teehee:
2) some people just look at the Lock Light and assume it's locked..
some people take forever after they remove the Power Cord before they try the Door
some people don't wait a few minutes before trying again

from a previous thread:
AccApp wrote:
First rule: It's not the timer.
Second rule: It's probably not the timer.
Third rule: It could be the timer. But rule out all other possibilities first.
I have yet to replace a timer in a Frigidaire built f/l washer,
the one I almost did had one of the timer harness plugs knocked loose by an out of balance load
.

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#17 KurbyMstr

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:47 PM

So what other possibilities are there to rule out? The only one I see is verifying that it's moisture between 5c to 5b, and not another problem with the contacts. If it is moisture, how is that affecting the board. If it's not moisture, how can that affect the board? I don't know of any manufacturers that give access to the schematics for circuit boards, so what is the best guess?

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:05 PM

Frigidaire diagnostics :woot:

Posted Image
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one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
"A Child Is Waiting" . Burt Lancaster . Judy Garland . 1962

RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw




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