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Jenn Air JER8885QAS range - right-front stove top burner not working

burner

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30 replies to this topic

#1 mmoore5553

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 09:28 PM

I have a burner i think it is going out. It works but does not heat up like it use too. It is the right front burner. I think i know how to take it apart with the two screws inside the range and pull it out ? If someone can example how to get to it that is great and any tips on how to fix or locate what is wrong. I am good with a multi-meter and following wire diagrams.

I have joined this site before and you all have helped big time before. Thank you again.

Also what site is it that i can buy part and if it does not work send it back. I know you all are affiliated with it.

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:08 PM

.... It is the front bottom burner.
... what site is it that i can buy part and if it does not work send it back. I know you all are affiliated with it.

1) front bottom ?
2) to Find Parts enter the info into that nice Find Parts box located near the top of the page
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#3 john63

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:28 PM

Surface burners are usually identified by their location...

L/R: Left/Rear

L/F: Left/Front

R/R: Right/Rear

R/F: Right/Front

And a WARMING BURNER---usually in the center.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#4 mmoore5553

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Posted 22 January 2012 - 11:50 PM

I am sorry it is right front burner. It is the biggest one that we use the most. I have not taken it apart yet as I want to figure out what is causing this a burner element or something else.

#5 mmoore5553

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 10:49 AM

Okay i was able to take glass top off but unable to get to burners. I assume i have to take the four screws off and check. But before i did that i turned on the burners at max and they all came on fine. I was barely able to put my hand over any of the small front and main one ...FR and FL . I have taken a picture as you can see both are burning. I noticed the small one has more red lines than the large. I did not know if that was normal as all the other burners look like they had more rings lite.

Posted Image

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 24 January 2012 - 08:04 PM.
Made image appear in post.


#6 mmoore5553

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:45 PM

Any ideas on what the issue is ? Does the glow look correct. I am unsure why it is not heating up the full way at all.

#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 08:22 PM

The element on the left looks like your dual surface element:

Radiant-Surface-Element-74008897--009936


The one on the right-- the one in question-- looks like your mondo element:

Radiant-Surface-Element-74008919--009936

The glow pattern for the dual element looks right. The glow pattern for the mondo element looks different from the ribbon element pattern shown in the photo. I'm not sure if this is just from sourcing a different manufacturer for that part.

At any rate, the exact pattern isn't as important as the fact that it is glowing. If it weren't getting the full 240vac, the element wouldn't glow like that. So it appears that the element is working properly.

Let's review the complaint again. How, specficaily did you determine or judge that the element was not heating up properly?



#8 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 06:14 AM

To me it looks like the outer ribbon of the MONDO element, (Samurai terminology), isn't powering up. It appears to be dual 6/8inch or 8/9inch element.

Common to both ribbons comes in thru the hi-limit/hot-surface indicator switch then you have two open terminal, (one being for the inner coil and one for the outer coil). The outer ribbon is burnt or the dual element infinite control switch is bad.
William Burk (Willie)
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#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 08:38 AM

Domo for the analysis, Brother Willie! The ribbon configuration on the mondo element still looks incapable of producing the glow pattern in the photo, regardless of which ribbon is burned out. But I defer to the penetrating insight of the Willie Method.™

Part links:

Mondo element ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=JER8885QAS

Burner switch ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=JER8885QAS

#10 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 09:05 AM

Okay for some reason i did not get emails that people replied but i took it apart today and the outer element is not burning. I have checked the wiring and it is giving 120 volts on all wires that are connecting to the burner. The outer ring is not lighting up at all. I have included a pic.

Posted Image

I did test the other burner and it has 120 volts on all leads too. So i assume this is correct voltage.


I am sorry for the ignorance but can someone educate me on how the element and switch works. I tried to do a continous check on the element but must be doing it wrong as i could not find out if it is faulty or not. I would like to test both to see which one to order.

But I assuming that if the voltage is there like all things should work unless the element is damaged. I did not see any issue with it just by viewing it. With my meter I am unable to get readings ; possible i am doing it wrong.

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 25 January 2012 - 10:22 AM.


#11 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:05 AM

Okay i have went over this a couple times and check the other burner with continuity check and this is my results

Here is picture

Posted Image

I check this on other burner that was close it same size

Lead 1 controls one burner ring

lead 2 has both of them coming in. I assume ground

Lead 3 controls other ring

I just tried the ribbon to tell this so by assuming , we all know what happens when people due that , lead 1 and lead 3 should have continuity and give me a nice tone from meter. It did not. So i tested both on 1,2 and 2,3 in pairs ..they both give ring. So i assume it is bad because 1 and 3 should ring as it is a loop . I assume this because the other burner right by it shows continuity everywhere on all pairs.

Let me know if i have missed something and am i correct in thinking it is the element ?

Edited by mmoore5553, 25 January 2012 - 10:34 AM.


#12 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:51 AM

... I have checked the wiring and it is giving 120 volts on all wires that are connecting to the burner.
... I did test the other burner and it has 120 volts on all leads too. So i assume this is correct voltage.
... possible i am doing it wrong.

the Elements use 240v and not ground

... lead 2 has both of them coming in. I assume ground
... nice tone from meter.
... Let me know if i have missed something

not ground
don't use the "continuity" test with your meter... measure actual OHMs
each portion of Element should be anywhere from 20 to 75 OHms
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#13 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:59 AM

I understand now I will check with ohms. So do i just check each pins in pairs then ? if it is not between those numbers it is bad.

Also 240v you said comes in but i see power split off to each burner so i assume it is parallel so half voltage to each element. I tested all the other elements and power going to them was 120. Or am I thinking there is 120 per each leg ( 1,3) so that is where you get the 240 ?

Sorry for all the questions as i like to be through and learn about the equipment. If i had a wiring diagram i would have just used that.

I appreciate all the help so far.

#14 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:53 AM

... do i just check each pins in pairs then ? if it is not between those numbers it is bad.
... so i assume it is parallel so half voltage to each element.

... I tested all the other elements and power going to them was 120.
... Or am I thinking there is 120 per each leg ( 1,3) ... so that is where you get the 240 ?

1) yes... if it's bad it'll be "open" / infinite
2) no, 240v to each Element
3) where are you getting 120v ? ... does not use ground
4) 240v across each portion of Element

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#15 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 11:56 AM

thanks for the information and diagram that helps.

I am getting 120v at each leg on the element ...picture previous on 1,2,3 .

it is consistant with the other big element also as it has same voltage.

#16 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:11 PM

... I am getting 120v at each leg on the element ...picture previous on 1,2,3 .

WHERE ARE YOU MEASURING 120V ?
Each Element is 240v
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every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#17 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:17 PM

Picture listed above with lines that say 1 , 2 , 3 . Off the main switch i have 240 but then it goes to 120 v on each burner . Well the legs as i call them.

#18 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 02:59 PM

WHERE ARE YOU MEASURING 120V ?

... from where to where ?
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#19 mmoore5553

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:06 PM

I have my meter and black is on just chassis of the stove and then touch pin 1 in the picture in above posts and it reads 120 volts. I then keep it on the chassis and measure 2 ... 120 volts and 3 above and it says 120 volts . All of the other burners mimic the same voltage.

#20 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 10:08 PM

I have my meter and black is on just chassis of the stove ...


the Elements use 240v and not ground

the Elements don't use chassis (ground)
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