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LG TROMM Dryer DLE5955 the drum is hard to turn


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9 replies to this topic

#1 japaho1

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:29 PM

LG TROMM Dryer DLE5955 the drum is hard to turn. I opened the door and turned the drum by hand and can feel the resistance is hard to turn by hand. I have taken off the top cap and front door and noticed that the belt is still around the drum, but have not checked the bottom of the drum. I noticed 2 rollers in the back. If it is the rollers, do I need to take the drum out of the cabinet from the front or can I take the back panel off. The back panel has the apperance that it cannot be taken off since it looks like it is stamped and crimped together with the sides of the cabinet.

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#2 john63

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 07:34 PM

Dryer will not start?
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 japaho1

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:23 PM

The dryer will start. I had put a load in too dry. Walked away then it just stopped. Opened the door and had a burn odor. Tryed to turn the drum by hand and felt like something dragging (holding it back). The belt is still around the drum, but I don't know if it is off track somewhere. Looked under the drum and noticed that there are rollers at the back of the drum. I have not checked the front of the drum. I will need to remove the air duct first.

#4 john63

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 01:10 AM

<<< Opened the door and had a burn odor. Tryed to turn the drum by hand and felt like something dragging (holding it back)>>>

****************************

If the odor smells like rubber burning---the DRUM SUPPORT ROLLERS may be seizing/binding.

Unplug dryer.

1) Remove the TOP COVER of the dryer
2) Remove the CONTROL PANEL
3) Remove the FRONT PANEL/COVER
4) Remove the 2nd FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY (holds the front of the drum in position)
5) Remove the BELT from the Motor & Pulley
6) Remove the DRUM
7) Inspect the BLOWER WHEEL HOUSING for clothing or other debris caught in the housing
8) Inspect the 4 DRUM SUPPORT WHEELS---if not destroyed---clean the ROLLERS & the SHAFT/BEARINGS (remove all hair/lint from the Shaft-Bearings) Dry lubricant can be used.
9) If the DRUM SUPPORT ROLLERS & the BLOWER WHEEL show no defect/fault---the DRIVE MOTOR is likely failing (fairly rare).

Edited by john63, 25 January 2012 - 01:11 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 kdog

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 01:14 AM

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#6 japaho1

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 09:45 AM

Found a sock stuck in the BLOWER WHEEL HOUSING. Removed this and now the drum turns without dragging. What kind of maintenance can I do from here? Have the dryer for 4 years. Replace Belt? Replace DRUM SUPPORT WHEELS? Lubricate? I would like to clean out the lint, hair and other debris out of the unit. Can I take the back panel off? It has 7 screws that attach to the back DRUM SUPPORT ASSY and there are crimped/stamped locations along the left and right sides for the back and side panels approximatly 2 inches apart. It would be easier if I can take this off to get to the rollers in the back of the drum.

#7 john63

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 04:27 PM

<<<I would like to clean out the lint, hair and other debris out of the unit. Can I take the back panel off?>>>

***************

No---those screws at the rear of the dryer hold the rear drum support.
If removed---it will be a major proposition getting the screws back in.

All service/access is done from the front.

Aside from cleaning out the lint/hair---not much else is usually required.
Drum wheels can be cleaned (DRY lubricant can be used).
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 japaho1

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 03:18 PM

What type of dry lubricant do you recommend? Can I use a graphite lubricant?

#9 john63

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 01:09 AM

Not really imperative to use---but that's fine.

Edited by john63, 27 January 2012 - 01:10 AM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#10 delawaredrew

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 12:29 AM

I use a high temp white moly lube if needed. It comes as a lube in some frigidaire kit so I don't know where you'd get that particular stuff, but any high heat resistant lube should do.




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