Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Boot Camp | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Intermittent filling problem with Maytag MDB9100 AWB JETCLEAN DISHWASHER EQ - Plus!

intermittent filling

  • Please log in to reply
50 replies to this topic

#21 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:19 PM

The fill cycle is based on time (approx 2 min) - the valve has an orifice which is sized to pass a certain volume in that time - although you may notice the lever lift at the beginning of the fill, the switches function is to prevent it from overfilling. Connect the switch wires together and try filling the unit multiple times to see if the voltage supplied to the valve improves.
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#22 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 02 February 2012 - 08:05 PM

Wonering where the plasic bits come from ?

http://www.repaircli...mber=MDB9100AWB

 

Silverware-Basket-6-918873-01079674.jpg


Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#23 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:17 PM

Thanks! I checked my silverware basket and think it looks pretty much intact. I recognize 4 of the bits...rubberized "ends" for some wire rack. They look similar to a repair kit for old dishwasher racks....these were for something else...it'll come to me. The glass is about as big as a .22 short. There was more glass, and more plastic, too. Here's a shot of the bounty in a plastic bag next to a quarter and a ruler for scale (toldja I was OCD - lol)

Posted Image




And now, I have good news and bad news. Which first? OK, the good news...I made a jumper from a wall hook I found rummaging in the garage. After a couple of bends with pliers, it looked exactly like the tabs coming off the switch! I tested it for conductivity in an AC socket. Perfect.

Onto the test: Fill switch removed (I'm getting fast at that) and leads jumpered. Watching timer, voltage, float stem, etc.

FIRST FILL
0:05 filling - 112/113 V AC
1:38 float pin rising
1:53 washing (and sounds like still filling, too)
2:00 just washing
3:00 hit delay (and pause on the stopwatch) check for fill (redundant because I already saw the pin rise)- good fill
4:00 drained

SECOND FILL
0:05 filling - 112v
0:54 silence - 95V (or 94V) no filling - float pin motionless (duh)
1:56 washing cycle starts - valve voltage is now at 31VAC
2:27 with a sad heart, opened dishwaasher to find incomplete fill
2:27 drained

THIRD FILL (I'm having so much fun, may as well do it again)
0:05 no fill - 6V? - then 95V - no float pin motion - no filling sounds
(maybe my meter's whacked; try again)

FOURTH FILL
0:05 95VAC :(

So, that's the good news. Looks like the switch is not at the root of this. Please confirm. I don't have to spend the $12. yay.

It also looks like I get to spend $240 on a new master control board. Please confirm this, too.


Couple of questions (as usual)

The first board replacement was in '07; this was the recall and actually was a "smoked board." (lucky no fire) The second replacement was due to a power surge (according to my notes). Now here comes the third (upon your respected opinion/validation). I know it's an impossible question....humor me, please

(1) Why did my board go bad?


(2) Are boards ever repaired? My partner asks, "can it be fixed?"


(3) Lastly, (<--yeah right) can I install it? I had it halfway off already...took the smaller yellow? board off of the longer, thinner green board to look-around...stopped there...I am unsure about some of the connectors. Is recognizing how to pull connectors off easy enough?


Sincerely, thank you.


:thanks:

~drcarl


PS - kdog, thanks for the info on filling....btw, the lever (actually float pin and lever) lifts at the end of the filling cycle....you probably meant that...TYVM.....;)

#24 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:21 PM

Yup - sounds like a controller issue, check with Bruce over at FixYourBoard.com and see if they can repair the board
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#25 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:23 PM

Awesome - thanks

#26 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 02 February 2012 - 09:50 PM

PS - kdog (or anyone). Please take a look at my bounty photo above - the junk I cleaned out (thanks to your awesome video help) - see the blue bead? It's about the size of a BB; perhaps a tad smaller.

Is there any part of the dishwasher that might be missing or wanting this blue bead?

:thanks:

#27 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:24 PM

Nope
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#28 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 03 February 2012 - 02:17 AM

ty

#29 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 13 February 2012 - 07:15 PM

kdog (and everyone else),

thank you for reflecting on my situation and for helping me rule-out the smaller, easier possibilities.

I contacted fixyourboard.com, yet they said they are not doing dishwasher boards at this time. So, I bought a refurb through CoreCentric Solutions on eBay....delivered and installed today.

The very BEST deal for a new, with a significant savings over my local brick-and-mortar store was was repairclinic.com. At a little over $200, I would have saved about $70 over buying locally. Nevertheless, this being the third board replacement, (one recall, one power surge, now this of unknown cause), and resources being what they are, I went for the refurb for $90.

=================Board is now installed, test run=====================

First fill has completed. I await the drain, then.........*long, extended, suspense-building drum roll*.......the second, and ever so tell-tale fill.
First drain - OK

Second fill completely failed. Power 95VAC at the water valve. I filled it manually
Results: :banghead: CRAP! CRAP! CRAP! :wc: :banghead: (*sorry*) :burnin: (<--I'm really not losing it....yet)
Second drain: OK

Third fill (extra rinse selected), started OK, then halfway through the fill the power of 112 VAC at the valve dropped, as usual, to about 95 VAC and the filling stopped - incomplete fill. I filled it manually.
Third drain: OK

Next cycle: DRY - OK

==============================================

Next test - "Light Wash" - first fill: failed. Test aborted.

==============================================

Of course you can imagine that I want to get to the bottom of this.

QUESTIONS:

(1) What's my next step? :kopkrab: :bart: 12 ga.? K-bar? :stab:

(2) How possible is it the "refurb" board I got has the exact same problem? :kopkrab:

(3) How could this condition be caused if we wanted to make this happen on purpose? :kopkrab: :groucho:

Condition remains: erratic voltage drops to about 95VAC at the valve, causing incomplete fills which often follow a normal (112V) first fill.

#30 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 13 February 2012 - 08:27 PM

Check for bad wire or connection somewhere, be sure to include the power hookup to the dishwasher - sounds like a poor connection somewhere.
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#31 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 14 February 2012 - 03:20 PM

OK, I'll wiggle everything I can reach.

Meanwhile, a friend of mine who knows appliances recommended:


My first guess would be you need a new fill valve.

If you have normal voltage with the valve not connected that's your problem.

If that's OK your control computer board is not working properly


This was similar to the first post/reply by kdog, but with a difference: kdog recommended testing the voltage at the while the valve is still connected and my friend said "with the valve not connected.

Does it make sense to test for voltage with the valve not connected? If so, how when when do I do that?


Here's my guess....(sorry if it's obvious, I am just literal and really don't want to mess anything up)....

Pull the wires off of the orange plastic of the valve.
Poke the multi-meter probes in there, one into the connector for each wire, for a reading?
When do I do this, at the start of the second fill? (since the first fill is usually normal?)
Or, perhaps, at any point where the voltage seems to drop to 95VAC?

Standing by; thanks

drcarl

#32 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 14 February 2012 - 07:36 PM

The latest (I know you're aching to know) - Even without instructions/permission, I let the dishwasher go through to the second fill and took a voltage reading...95VAC with wired attached, so I yanked the to wires going to the valve and jammed the probes into the leads to test for was being provided: 95VAC...so, now I'll go on a fishing expedition for "bad wires" and "poor connections"

Is it possible (I know, ANYthing is possible) that I have another bad board? That the replacement (refurb) I installed is bad? I guess it could happen.

At least I didn't die and my multimeter didn't blow up.

#33 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Academy Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:33 PM

Have you inspected the mains connection ? monitor voltage at power hookup as you could have an electrical supply issue as well
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#34 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 14 February 2012 - 08:38 PM

kdog - thanks....just switched-out the refurb board for the old board...disconnected and re-connected everything I could reach. Stickiest connections were the leads to the two door switches. I gave the mains nuts a good reef and will now go back and test for VAC (am pretty sure there is some bare wire I can get at.

Thanks for your care...I'll report when done.

drcarl

#35 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:32 PM

Snuggled the meter's probes up inside the wire nuts and tested AC supply; it's 120 (or 119) VAC and doesn't drop.

So, my problem remains. Incomplete fill; filling stops when current drops to 95 VAC at the valve.

So, I got a 2nd bad board?

#36 RussTech

RussTech

    Kohai

  • Chief Master Appliantologist
  • PipPipPip
  • 309 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Heineken

Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:45 PM

If what your saying is true, its the only possibility. Does the refurb have a return policy?

#37 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 14 February 2012 - 10:53 PM

Everything I have related is to the best of my ability. I have learned a lot here (tyvm) and could probably be more succinct were I able to rewind the clock. Also, as to accurate portrayal, I am VERY good in lab (physics, chemistry, etc) and am very literal. (That gets me into how water sometimes - lol)

Yes, they have a return policy. 14 days and I pay shipping - more than fair; it's been 6 so far. I'll likely have them send me a new $90 refurb.

Thank you for reviewing my case.

drcarl

#38 SANTA

SANTA

    Senpai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 788 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Windsor/Molson

Posted 14 February 2012 - 11:27 PM

Hey drcarl. Did you get a good visual on the wires that bend between the door and tub? Sometimes you can miss a slightly burned wire.

#39 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 15 February 2012 - 01:38 AM

will check -god knows I can open her up and get there to check fast enough now

#40 drcarl

drcarl

    Ikkō-ikki

  • Grasshoppah
  • PipPip
  • 34 posts
  • Flavorite Brew:Chimay

Posted 15 February 2012 - 05:17 PM

Santa - thank you for the suggestion. I opened her up (including the little cover boxes) and got a good visual (LED light, 'reader' glasses and all) from the power source to the destination at the board. All the pretty wires, especially the black ones and the white ones, appear to be in great shape with no discoloration, fraying or, well, anything. The look almost brand new!

Thank you for the suggestion....making the call for the RMA.

Stay tuned! ~lol~




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Boot Camp | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics