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Lg dishwasher ldf6810st e1 error code


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25 replies to this topic

#1 Birch

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 10:26 PM

Howdy..my d/w has been working for a few years and suddenly it stopped cleaning and I found that the top arm is not spraying water and the e1 code came on. I took it apart and there were no leaks or blockages. From reading other posts it seems that it need a sump assembly ajh31248604. My questions are:
Is there a way to test the sump motor?
can't I just replace the motor instead of the entire assembly (much cheaper)4681ea2002h?
Cheers
Birch

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#2 john63

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Posted 30 January 2012 - 11:16 PM

<<<Is there a way to test the sump motor?>>>

*********************

Pointless. All LDF6810 dishwashers had the older (compromised) WASH MOTORS.

*********************

<<<can't I just replace the motor instead of the entire assembly (much cheaper)4681ea2002h?>>>

********************

Yes---but....

1) There's no way to identify which of the WASH MOTORS in dealer inventory is the older/flawed part or the newer/improved part. There's still a lot of older/discontinued junk inventory in dealer warehouses.

2) Older LG dishwasher SUMP ASSYs do not lend themselves well to disassembly---somewhat difficult to re-install the internal *gaskets*---even new ones.
The current SUMP ASSY has been re-designed---more than just the WASH MOTOR (an easier internal design allows dis-assembly & re-installation of the FILTER HOUSING and GASKET (only a single gasket is now used).

*******************************

<<<the e1 code came on.>>>

*******************************

Verify that the DRAIN HOSE is ***not*** connected to a drain-source ***below*** the floor.
The DRAIN HOSE/LINE must be connected to a sink drain---and elevated.
Newer LG dishwashers now use a re-designed DRAIN HOSE which has a built-in SIPHON-BREAK.

**********************************

<<<I found that the top arm is not spraying water>>>

**********************************

It is impossible to observe wash arm activity---as the door must be in the closed position for the wash cycle to start.

Additionally---the lower wash arm (by design) will be pressurized by the WASH MOTOR for 90 seconds (approx) and then a switching valve inside the SUMP ASSY----known as a VARIO VALVE---diverts water pressure/flow from the lower wash arm to the center and upper wash arms for 90 seconds (approx). Back and forth throughout the wash cycle.

Edited by john63, 30 January 2012 - 11:21 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 Birch

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 04:43 PM

Sensei..I really appreciate the reply? So does it sound like I need ajh31248604? As far as the drain hose, the machine has worked for a few years, is it possible that now it has a problem? It is def. not elevated. It runs under the cabinets and rises about 10in into the sink drain. As for the upper arms. It runs for about 10-15 mins before the e1 comes on. I put some bowls in and they were still empty on the top shelf.

I hope this makes sense. I hate the d/w but I'm kinda stuck with it and don't want to waste money on wrong parts or service.
Cheers
Eric

#4 john63

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:37 PM

Yes--replace the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604)

Resolves noise and washability complaints.

*********************************************

<<<It runs for about 10-15 mins before the e1 comes on>>>

*********************************************

Since the DRAIN HOSE does not route *below* the floor---it's fine. Find a way to raise the hose under the sink---to an elevated position (wire tie works well).

The E1 error is then most likely triggered by the WASH MOTOR---which is failing.
If the Wash Motor RPM fluctuates---the MAIN BOARD interprets that as a *low water* condition (false error code).

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, 31 January 2012 - 07:19 PM.
Added part link. :)

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#5 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 04:57 PM

Unfortunately, the problem is not solved. I replaced the entire sump assembly and ran a load. Aft about 15 mins e1 code came back on. Any idea what else it could be?
Cheers
Eric
Again, it was running w/o a problem for a few years:(

#6 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 06:27 PM

Correction..the error is IE...which says clogged water inlet which does not seem to b an issue.
Help

#7 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:01 PM

<<<the error is IE>>>

***************************

Failed WATER VALVE.

http://www.repaircli...DD1001A/1268129

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 07:03 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#8 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:18 PM

Thanks again John. Is there any way to test the one I have. I would hate to keep throwing money into this thing and not have it fixed

#9 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:26 PM

Could I have connected wires incorrectly? I doubt it but who knows

#10 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 07:35 PM

Press and hold the following buttons...

UPPER ONLY / TIME DELAY / POWER

Release all 3 buttons.

Press the TIME DELAY button *four times*.

Close the door---water will enter the tub.

When the water fill stops---open the door and see what numbers are displayed on the Control Panel.

Normal water fill will show a "frequency value" of 295.

If not---replace the WATER VALVE.

If good...

Turn off the water supply.

Disconnect the water line from the WATER VALVE.

Have a helper hold the hose/water line in a bucket (or cup)---briefly turn on the water (will blast water quite strongly) to verify that the water is flowing---and that the hot water spigot (usually under the sink) is not malfuctioning/failing to open when turned on.

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 07:36 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#11 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:09 PM

I did the above and it is still going. I opened the door a few times and got different numbers. One time was a flashing 29...5 which I guess means 295. The other numbers were much higher

#12 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:21 PM

The *higher* numbers---means LESS WATER in the tub.

The *lower* numbers indicate MORE WATER in the tub.

295 is normal water fill.

<<<Could I have connected wires incorrectly?>>>

**************************

For the SUMP ASSY---no.

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 08:20 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#13 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:24 PM

I appreciate the help. It seems like it is constantly filling and then drains. I don't hear it stopping the filling

#14 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:33 PM

<<<I did the above and it is still going. I opened the door a few times and got different numbers. One time was a flashing 29...5 which I guess means 295. The other numbers were much higher>>>

***********************

If the WATER LEVEL shows "295"...

Pull out the dishwasher from the counter.

Remove the left side metal panel---3 screws at the door opening and 4 screws at the rear of the dishwasher (pull side panel upward & towards you).

Using a bright flashlight---examine the FLOAT ASSY on the left side of the D/W.

There's a square section of the FLOAT ASSY---it's opaque/white---and there are foam pieces within it.

Looking at the side of the D/W---is the right-side of the FLOAT (chamber) heavily contaminated with greasy-looking crud?

If yes---it may be necessary to place the D/W on it's back.
Remove the bottom access panel.
Then disconnect/remove the black rubber hose at the 9 o'clock position of the SUMP ASSY.
This hose is also attached to that chamber of the Float Assy.
Once removed---check for total blockage (fatty deposit)---clean if necessary---re-install hose.
Test D/W.

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 08:36 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#15 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:38 PM

I did the 3 button test again and opened door as soon as I heard drain start...the number was 538. Would this mean that the Water valve is bad?
Thanks

#16 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:44 PM

If no water can be seen in the tub---and the water supply *to the water valve* is verified to be "good" (free-flowing).

Yes---failed water valve.
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#17 john63

john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:51 PM

<<<It seems like it is constantly filling and then drains. I don't hear it stopping the filling>>>

**************************

Is water entering the tub---or is the water valve just making a "buzzing" sound only?

If water does enter/fill into the tub---and then after a period of time (about 1 to 2 minutes) begins to drain all of the water---check that black hose on the SUMP ASSY.

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 08:53 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#18 Birch

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 08:57 PM

Water is filling the tub..takes 15-20mins..then drains and repeats. I just retested again and this time got 300. I get a different number very time...but there is water in tub

#19 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:08 PM

I'd bet that the hose which routes from the SUMP ASSY to the FLOAT ASSY is blocked.

Fairly rare to see this---but would be more common on older model dishwashers.

NOTE: The hose can be disconnected from the SUMP ASSY at the 9 o'clock position---and from the FLOAT ASSY.
Both clamps for this (approximately 5 inch length) hose can be accessed from the bottom of the dishwasher.

Edited by john63, 06 February 2012 - 09:16 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#20 john63

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Posted 06 February 2012 - 09:17 PM

Another thought...

How is the quality of water in your area?

High iron content? (reddish stains)
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"




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