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Birch

Lg dishwasher ldf6810st e1 error code

26 posts in this topic

Howdy..my d/w has been working for a few years and suddenly it stopped cleaning and I found that the top arm is not spraying water and the e1 code came on. I took it apart and there were no leaks or blockages. From reading other posts it seems that it need a sump assembly ajh31248604. My questions are:

Is there a way to test the sump motor?

can't I just replace the motor instead of the entire assembly (much cheaper)4681ea2002h?

Cheers

Birch

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

<<<Is there a way to test the sump motor?>>>

*********************

Pointless. All LDF6810 dishwashers had the older (compromised) WASH MOTORS.

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<<<can't I just replace the motor instead of the entire assembly (much cheaper)4681ea2002h?>>>

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Yes---but....

1) There's no way to identify which of the WASH MOTORS in dealer inventory is the older/flawed part or the newer/improved part. There's still a lot of older/discontinued junk inventory in dealer warehouses.

2) Older LG dishwasher SUMP ASSYs do not lend themselves well to disassembly---somewhat difficult to re-install the internal *gaskets*---even new ones.

The current SUMP ASSY has been re-designed---more than just the WASH MOTOR (an easier internal design allows dis-assembly & re-installation of the FILTER HOUSING and GASKET (only a single gasket is now used).

*******************************

<<<the e1 code came on.>>>

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Verify that the DRAIN HOSE is ***not*** connected to a drain-source ***below*** the floor.

The DRAIN HOSE/LINE must be connected to a sink drain---and elevated.

Newer LG dishwashers now use a re-designed DRAIN HOSE which has a built-in SIPHON-BREAK.

**********************************

<<<I found that the top arm is not spraying water>>>

**********************************

It is impossible to observe wash arm activity---as the door must be in the closed position for the wash cycle to start.

Additionally---the lower wash arm (by design) will be pressurized by the WASH MOTOR for 90 seconds (approx) and then a switching valve inside the SUMP ASSY----known as a VARIO VALVE---diverts water pressure/flow from the lower wash arm to the center and upper wash arms for 90 seconds (approx). Back and forth throughout the wash cycle.

Edited by john63

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Sensei..I really appreciate the reply? So does it sound like I need ajh31248604? As far as the drain hose, the machine has worked for a few years, is it possible that now it has a problem? It is def. not elevated. It runs under the cabinets and rises about 10in into the sink drain. As for the upper arms. It runs for about 10-15 mins before the e1 comes on. I put some bowls in and they were still empty on the top shelf.

I hope this makes sense. I hate the d/w but I'm kinda stuck with it and don't want to waste money on wrong parts or service.

Cheers

Eric

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Yes--replace the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604)

Resolves noise and washability complaints.

*********************************************

<<<It runs for about 10-15 mins before the e1 comes on>>>

*********************************************

Since the DRAIN HOSE does not route *below* the floor---it's fine. Find a way to raise the hose under the sink---to an elevated position (wire tie works well).

The E1 error is then most likely triggered by the WASH MOTOR---which is failing.

If the Wash Motor RPM fluctuates---the MAIN BOARD interprets that as a *low water* condition (false error code).

Edited by Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Added part link. :)

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Unfortunately, the problem is not solved. I replaced the entire sump assembly and ran a load. Aft about 15 mins e1 code came back on. Any idea what else it could be?

Cheers

Eric

Again, it was running w/o a problem for a few years:(

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Correction..the error is IE...which says clogged water inlet which does not seem to b an issue.

Help

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Thanks again John. Is there any way to test the one I have. I would hate to keep throwing money into this thing and not have it fixed

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Could I have connected wires incorrectly? I doubt it but who knows

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Press and hold the following buttons...

UPPER ONLY / TIME DELAY / POWER

Release all 3 buttons.

Press the TIME DELAY button *four times*.

Close the door---water will enter the tub.

When the water fill stops---open the door and see what numbers are displayed on the Control Panel.

Normal water fill will show a "frequency value" of 295.

If not---replace the WATER VALVE.

If good...

Turn off the water supply.

Disconnect the water line from the WATER VALVE.

Have a helper hold the hose/water line in a bucket (or cup)---briefly turn on the water (will blast water quite strongly) to verify that the water is flowing---and that the hot water spigot (usually under the sink) is not malfuctioning/failing to open when turned on.

Edited by john63

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I did the above and it is still going. I opened the door a few times and got different numbers. One time was a flashing 29...5 which I guess means 295. The other numbers were much higher

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The *higher* numbers---means LESS WATER in the tub.

The *lower* numbers indicate MORE WATER in the tub.

295 is normal water fill.

<<<Could I have connected wires incorrectly?>>>

**************************

For the SUMP ASSY---no.

Edited by john63

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I appreciate the help. It seems like it is constantly filling and then drains. I don't hear it stopping the filling

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<<<I did the above and it is still going. I opened the door a few times and got different numbers. One time was a flashing 29...5 which I guess means 295. The other numbers were much higher>>>

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If the WATER LEVEL shows "295"...

Pull out the dishwasher from the counter.

Remove the left side metal panel---3 screws at the door opening and 4 screws at the rear of the dishwasher (pull side panel upward & towards you).

Using a bright flashlight---examine the FLOAT ASSY on the left side of the D/W.

There's a square section of the FLOAT ASSY---it's opaque/white---and there are foam pieces within it.

Looking at the side of the D/W---is the right-side of the FLOAT (chamber) heavily contaminated with greasy-looking crud?

If yes---it may be necessary to place the D/W on it's back.

Remove the bottom access panel.

Then disconnect/remove the black rubber hose at the 9 o'clock position of the SUMP ASSY.

This hose is also attached to that chamber of the Float Assy.

Once removed---check for total blockage (fatty deposit)---clean if necessary---re-install hose.

Test D/W.

Edited by john63

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I did the 3 button test again and opened door as soon as I heard drain start...the number was 538. Would this mean that the Water valve is bad?

Thanks

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If no water can be seen in the tub---and the water supply *to the water valve* is verified to be "good" (free-flowing).

Yes---failed water valve.

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<<<It seems like it is constantly filling and then drains. I don't hear it stopping the filling>>>

**************************

Is water entering the tub---or is the water valve just making a "buzzing" sound only?

If water does enter/fill into the tub---and then after a period of time (about 1 to 2 minutes) begins to drain all of the water---check that black hose on the SUMP ASSY.

Edited by john63

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Water is filling the tub..takes 15-20mins..then drains and repeats. I just retested again and this time got 300. I get a different number very time...but there is water in tub

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I'd bet that the hose which routes from the SUMP ASSY to the FLOAT ASSY is blocked.

Fairly rare to see this---but would be more common on older model dishwashers.

NOTE: The hose can be disconnected from the SUMP ASSY at the 9 o'clock position---and from the FLOAT ASSY.

Both clamps for this (approximately 5 inch length) hose can be accessed from the bottom of the dishwasher.

Edited by john63

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Another thought...

How is the quality of water in your area?

High iron content? (reddish stains)

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More thoughts on the FILL & DRAIN symptom (and IE error).

Looking at the photo of the FLOAT ASSY---verify that the foam-float inside the chamber is *not* stuck in the *down-position* (excessive sludge-like residue).

Verify that the GUIDE ASSY (larger plastic assy next to the FLOAT ASSY is not completely reddish-colored (iron build-up).

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John..thanks for sticking with me. It looks like the float was stuck. I tapped on it and it dropped. I will run a small load later and hopefully u fixed it. I'll let ya know

Cheers

Also, I tested the water and the line was clear

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It's rare to find a stuck float in an LG dishwasher.

I've seen it---perhaps on two occassions in---approximately nine years.

Let us know how things work out :)

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vICTORY...here is what happened. The float looked stuck so I tapped it and it fell. I ran a small load w/o any problems. I put cover back and pushed back into place. Ran a full load and halfway thru it stopped...1e. I pulled it back out tapped float and it ran w/o issue. I have used it a few times this week w/o the side panel (in case it stopped) and it is running great. I figure I will replace the float assembly and all should b ok.

John...I use forums often to help me with issues. This is one of the few that not only gave me assistance with my problem, but continued to stay with my post and troubleshoot different ideas. It was like you were in my kitchen. Thank you for your patience and efforts. I will definetly pay-it-forward to another in need. You are a good guy!

Cheers

Birch

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