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kenmore 110.88870100 dryer takes too long & noise + extensive diagnostics


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11 replies to this topic

#1 dockdweller

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:23 PM

Hi and thanks in advance as I am going to write a long post. Have done but need help before ordering parts: Preliminary guess is WEAK HEATING ELEMENT along with OTHER FACTORS. Seems like some of the problems are still in the developing stage...

1) Tenant informed that dryer was taking several cycles to dry and also making noise (preliminary conclusion needs new rollers and or tensioner so plan to order those). Also that the clothes were too wet coming out of the washer (whirlpool direct drive)-- I did the 'hand' test for strength of spin per the samurai's post and basically concluded it needs a new clutch-- though this is without having another washer or experience to tell me how much torque it should make so plan to order a clutch. Also, examined the 'tabs' at the top of the drive block and there seems to be no issue there. Couple was recently replaced and stuck my face under there for a visual and seems o.k. Having concluded that the washer is part of the problem then went on to check dryer.

2) On the NOISE: Empty it sounds almost normal. And there wasn't very much noise when I put some wet though not drenched clothes in so I haven't replicated what the tenant told me but believe based on what she said there was a much louder noise fully loaded. The tensioner seems bad based on free spin play and sound when removed from unit so I plan to order a new one of those. I do not know how much play should be in the rollers however so could use some guidance. One seems to have a small but definitely noticeable side to side or up and down play. I'd just like an experienced opinion on this as seems like a good idea to replace those if wear is normal here. But I don't want to replace where I don't have to as I've got quite a tab going on these old machines now. So also does experience say that the roller wears first and primarily instead of the shaft or do I also need to replace those (is it silly to ask if there is a thickness specified for these in .001 ?) Also, aside from the bearing surface is it that the rubber wears down over time so creates a fit problem such that I should replace them even if the bearing aspect is ok?

3) The rear DRUM SEAL you can see from inside got bent backwards for about 6" of its length. I plan to replace it. My only question here is if anyone has an opinion on how much additional cold air flow a gap like this causes..maybe I shouldn't bother?

4) Next wanted to examine AIRFLOW & TEMPERATURE. The exhaust goes only about 6" and about straight through the wall and outside. I could see some caked in lint not easily removable behind the screen etc so decided to check the exhaust temperature before going inside and removing the blower housing etc. The heat gradually (about 30 sec/degree) crept up and it only got about 142 deg. This was after approx 20 min run time on high. I never witnessed any cycling-- just this slow creep up. Stopped the test as started tripping the breaker. Tenant was there and said this was abnormal. Breaker is likely weak as dryer is not on designated and gets at least somewhat regularly tripped so I plan to examine again after dryer parts are replaced and probably replace breaker. There were only some other lights on the 15 Amp breaker..though track lighting with a lot of bulbs-- I wish I'd have turned them all off and continued the test.

-- Heather: 10 Ohms. Two thermostats one on blower housing and the other on heater box 0 Ohms.

-- Removed blower box and blew compressed air through it till all caked on lint was removed.

-- Took the machine home where I'd have space to work on it. Repeated temperature test yesterday (Ambient cold no more than 50 deg). On "Air" no heat. On high: 5 min: 78deg, 10 min 81deg, 15 min 82deg, 20 min holding at 82.9

-- Repeated again today: Ambient 64 deg (! Feb in Annapolis, MD) This time the temp gradually crept up again but topped out at 76 deg before holding.

Preliminary conclusion is heating element is weak. Surprised that it passed the Ohm test so wonder if that is typical. Any thoughts here?

Unless the termostats are somehow stopping it early. Do you think I should bridge them and do a test before replacing heater? Based on other posts it seems the lint before I cleaned might account for the higher temp readings (up to 142 deg) in the first test and then the temps went down when the blockage was removed. Unless the weak element just got weaker.

5) Here are electrical draw test results: On Air: 381 Watts, 3.47 amps. On high 115volts: 1531 Watts, 13.3 amps empty, with clothes 1557 Watts, 13.6 amps

(sticker says motor is 4amps and heater is 1450 Watts)


Wow, that's a lot of words but figured one thorough post might be easier than multiple small ones. Thank you to all who persevered through.

Regards,

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#2 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:29 PM

110.8870100

check that model number again :blink:
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#3 dockdweller

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 05:34 PM

missed an 8: Model is 110.88870100

Wow, you guys are fast!

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 07:36 PM

.

... 110.88870100
... guess is WEAK HEATING ELEMENT
... Tenant informed that dryer was taking several cycles to dry
... clothes were too wet coming out of the washer
... The heat gradually ... crept up and it only got about 142 ... after approx 20 min run time on high. ...
... Preliminary conclusion is heating element is weak.

1) 120v Electric dryer :mellow:
2) Heater Elements don't get "weak"... but a 120v electric Dryer has only 1/4 the wattage of a 240v electric Dryer
3) see above
4) that would be a problem
5) temperature tests should be done with an empty load
6) buy better Dryer ... 240v electric OR Gas Dryer
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 dockdweller

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 02:08 PM

Dryer has always worked great and don't have space for a larger dryer or money for one or to rewire the very old house.

Do you have any idea what the exhaust temperature for an empty properly operating 120 v dryer is? I can only find reference to 220 volt dryers.

64 degrees outside where I have the dryer now and I'm getting 108 F in the exhaust..can't understand why I keep getting different results but need to know ballpark for one of these smaller 120v machines.

#6 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 06:10 PM

... what the exhaust temperature for an empty properly operating 120 v dryer is? I can only find reference to 220 volt dryers.

Exhaust temperatures should be about the same ...
135F to 155F but should be measured using an empty load,
otherwise, dpending on how wet the clothes are, may take forever to get to temperature
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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#7 dockdweller

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:13 PM

Puzzling. Measured exhaust today at 108 deg. Took the thermostats to the stove and confirmed they were opening early so figured this must be the problem. Ran the unit WITHOUT the thermostats and exhaust topped out at 112 deg ! ???

#8 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:16 PM

... exhaust topped out at 112 deg ! ???

empty load ?
Vent removed, measured right at the Dryer output ?
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#9 dockdweller

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:22 PM

have the dryer sitting in my van running on extension cord. dig thermometer is right in output. Feel stupid here...what's the vent?

nevermind. Assume you mean the exhaust vent. Yes, it's removed and the machine is empty.

#10 dockdweller

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:05 PM

You'll probably find this interesting. The Sears techs are telling me that the temperatures I'm reaching (112) are about the upper limit. They said the the thermostat for it is 122 deg. The only problem is that

Repair Clinic shows the thermostat below and the original parts list which I have says the thermostat was 145!

Adjustable dryer cycling thermostat kit L135-155
Manufacturer Number 694674

I know this 110v dryers are less common but I'd really like to hear from anyone on the forum whose actually stuck a thermometer in the exhaust of one of these machines!

#11 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 03:49 PM

Sometimes they upgrade the part numbers and the replacement Thermostats are now "hotter" because of "complaints" , etc..
But you said it's taking longer that it did before, to dry the clothes.
If you look at your orignial Thermostat, it may have some temperatures numbers, or original part numbers on it.
.

one of my video productions: “Easter Seals: Walk With Me”

every day is Down Syndrome Awareness Day
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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#12 dockdweller

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:03 PM

I think the main reason it was taking way too long is a weak washer spin cycle. I measured the exhaust temp per everyone's recommendations to rule out additional problems. Everyone (including you) said 135 - 155 degrees and the original thermostat says L145-20 (145 degree open and I guess 20 deg cool down). So I assumed that if I was only getting 112 Degrees there must be a problem.

Maybe they just use a higher thermostat in these small units to stop it in case it gets that hot-- this one was actually hitting around 142 before I cleaned the exhaust. I guess that confused me because I figured it was supposed to get that high..now I think the lint was just raising it from 112 up to 142 . . .




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