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Samsung VRT Washer WF431ABP/XAA - Foreign Object Noise from Drum

Samsung Noise Foreign Oject

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10 replies to this topic

#1 JValenti

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 06:14 PM

I hear a rattling sound coming from the drum region. It sounds like a rubber or plastic loose object that rattles when I manually turn the drum by hand, and also as the high speed spin slows down to a stop.

I have a 3yr old who might have had something in her pocket and wonder if a toy is loose b/n the drum housing and drum. My husband is a master plumbing and comes home with all kinds of small things in his pocket too.

I utilized my Sears 3yr Service Plan and called for help. The A E Factory technician first told me that the space b/n the housing drum and drum is too small for anything to fit in there. Then after calling someone he tells me that the noise is normal and there is a small washer that the machine tells where to go to off set the weight of wet clothes. He left telling me that there is nothing wrong even though he doesn't know what the sound is.

I think the tech who came over is a meatstick and really isn't familiar with the washer. My hubby and I used the shop vac to suck out the drain pump filter thinking maybe we could suck out the unknown noise maker. I would like to remove the door seal and look around but don't even know if that's worthy of the time. (it doesn't look like there is a gap or point of entry for a foreign object to pass through.

Any troubleshooting help would be nice. I would love to see a diagram of the NRT assembly that Samsung has on the drum to know if there are any possible small parts that could have come off and are causing the sound.


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#2 john63

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 11:23 PM

Samsung front load washers with the Vibration Reduction Technology (VRT) feature have...

Two balance rings---one mounted at the front of the stainless steel inner tub and another at the rear.

Inside each balance ring are several steel balls (similar to ball bearings).

Both balance rings are oil-filled.

If the tub is rotated-by-hand and stopped----the steel balls can be heard sliding down the plastic oil-filled ring (sounds like sh-sh-sh-sh).

When the steel balls come together as a pack again---faint sounds of <click-click-click> can be heard.

All of this is normal.

Additionally---during *any* spin cycle---when the tub begins to spin with wet laundry there will be clicking-clacking/spring tensioning sounds/and even in some cases light tub-to-side-panel bumping sounds.

This too is normal.

Once the tub RPM (spin speed) reaches 400 revolutions-per-minute and faster----the VRT system *cancels-out* vibration/shaking for the remainder/entire duration of the spin cycle.

When the spin cycle ends---and the tub speed winds down---there will be a brief period of noise/wobble as the tub approaches the lower RPM range and comes to a complete stop.

All normal.

If the noise that you hear sounds like a loud "CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK"---there may be a bra wire caight between the inner drum and the outer tub.

If the tub is overloaded with laundry (especially if the clothing was compressed to make room for more laundry in the tub) this will allow for any potential debris/items left in pockets---to find it's way past the rubber door gasket gap and the lip of the stainless steel tub at the door opening.
The large *bubble-shaped* glass on the door is designed to keep items away from the front of the tub/gasket area.
These items will normally wind up in the pump housing strainer---and can be removed.
Other objects---such as small plastic buttons can get past the strainer and jam or damage the pump motor.

The correct maximum loading of the tub---is to fill it completely to the top---without pressing on the laundry for additional capacity to load even more clothing.
In homes where multiple family members do their own laundry---it's wise to let everyone know how much clothing can be put into the drum.

Edited by john63, 01 February 2012 - 11:25 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#3 JValenti

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 11:31 AM

Thanks for the VRT info. I can identify the, "sh, sh, sh" sound of the VRT ring system sliding against the drum. It has a smooth sound. -And for the bra wire scenerio, well I for sure can eliminate that one, my boobs are too small for under-wire bras.( :)Just the way God made me, oh and my bras.)

#4 RegUS_PatOff

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 11:52 AM

... sounds like a loud "CLICK-CLICK-CLICK-CLICK"---
there may be a bra wire caight between the inner drum and the outer tub.


... And for the bra wire scenerio, well I for sure can eliminate that one, my boobs are too small for under-wire bras.

post YouTube video .. ?
of the noise :wub:
.

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RegUS_PatOff > www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw

#5 JValenti

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 12:34 PM

I can try to get tech savy and give it a shot.

#6 kdog

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:35 PM

While performing a service call one day, I was asked by the Mrs. if there was any way I might help her to get her Central Vacuum to work. I agreed to have a look before I left and found it was simply that the Powerhead had become jammed up and quickly opened it up and removed the item which had become tangled in the rotating brush and eventuall caught in the drivebelt. Her reaction was absolutely priceless as I handed her the Condom (yes-used) that had been caught. "But there is just me and my Husband here and we NEVER use those". I kinda just shrugged and had to leave A.S.A.P. as the situation became very akward indeed.
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#7 DanInKansas

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:19 AM

Bumping this: Came across a Samsung VRT model that won't finish the spin cycle. History on this is that it worked just fine for four years in the room that it's in. Then it coughed up e3 error codes. I replaced the motor/hall sensor assembly.

Now the unit starts to shake when it goes into spin and kicks itself out.

I spent about two hours trying to level this out and correct the problem that way. I had the machine where I physically could not move it -- all four corners down tight on the ground and no wobble -- but the machine still shook violently and wouldn't finish the spin cycle with clothes in it.

The unit will go up to 1200 rpm empty in its self spin.

My boss is wondering if there could be a problem with the balance rings.

Anyone else got ideas on this? Model is a WF328AAW/XAA.

#8 john63

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 11:42 PM

Most likely a failed MAIN BOARD.

If the software that monitors imbalance is "corrupted"---the spin cycle can become "unmonitored".

I'd rule out a failing REAR BEARING or broken TUB TRUNNION ("spider arm").

In my experience when trying to verify a faulty MAIN BOARD in a Samsung washer---the test mode (per tech sheet) *cannot* be fully initiated.
Some functions will not enable at all during the test mode.

Balance rings are likely to be damaged/leaking *only* when the REAR BEARING or TRUNNION has failed.
I have seen this only once---on an LG 4.5 cu ft model (the largest)---which was on a very weak wood floor.
This washer had a fracture/break---at the point where the shaft on the stainless steel tub attaches to the trunnion assy.
During spin---the stainless steel tub was flailing-about---damaging the front balance ring (leakage).
This was an extreme exception to what most of us would encounter on service calls for front load LG or Samsung washers.

NOTE: When ordering replacement parts for Samsung WF328 model washers---get the entire model and serial numbers from the tag/label (of the washer).
Four different WF328 washer "versions" were produced---ask the parts jobber/distributor to double-check their order before shipping it out.

Edited by john63, 09 May 2012 - 11:54 PM.

To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"

#9 DanInKansas

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:43 PM

I can rule out the rear bearing -- when I put the motor on, the seal was pristine and the unit doesn't squeak or grind in motion.

To my great shame, I haven't heard of a spider arm aka tub trunnion -- where is it and what does it do?

#10 DanInKansas

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Posted 10 May 2012 - 10:48 PM

Also, so far, the main board has done everything I've asked it to.... it's kept track of fault codes, gone into diagnostics, component tests, etc.

#11 john63

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Posted 11 May 2012 - 12:16 AM

<<<I haven't heard of a spider arm aka tub trunnion>>>

**********************************

This is the *support assy* at the rear/back of the stainless steel tub.
Grasp the stainless steel tub and pull up/push down---if there's no movement or noise---it's problably not worn or damaged

**********************************.

<<<I can rule out the rear bearing>>>

<<<Also, so far, the main board has done everything I've asked it to>>>

*******************************

That leaves two possibilities/components that I'd examine:

1) Thoroughly inspect the plug at the HALL SENSOR (on the Stator/Motor).

The connection should be clean & free of corrosion---adding an electrically conductive paste is good idea as well.
The MAIN BOARD receives data/feedback from the HALL SENSOR---to determine if the tub is out-of-balance.
A corroded plug connection can cause erratic/garbled data (information).
A hidden "break" in the wires that run from the HALL SENSOR-to-the-MAIN BOARD can also cause corrupted/incomplete data
as well.
Test the *continuity* of each of the wires from the sensor to the board.
Pay particular attention to the area nearest the Hall Sensor---where the wire loom is *attached/secured* near the STATOR.
Have an assistant bend/flex the wires---while you're testing the continuity of each wire from the Hall Sensor to the Main Board.

I have seen this ***once*** on an LG washer (with True Balance software).
A nearly severed wire at the Hall Sensor---caused intermittent/violent out-of-balanced spin.

2) There's a possibility that the DAMPER/STRUTS are worn.
This would be more likely if the washer has been used for a number of years---on a weak wood floor.

These can be tough to diagnose/find fault

Being determined/persistent---usually yields results though :smile:

Good Luck
To eliminate:

Musty odor

L-O-N-G cycle times

Dingy/yellowing whites

Suds error message

Slow spin speeds

Intermittent water leaks (from rear of washer)

And other annoying symptoms which vary brand-to brand.

Read below:

The *correct* amount of HE (High Efficiency) detergent that should be used in any front load or agitatorless top load washer with tub sizes 3.0 cu ft and larger is as follows:

HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Wash Load

HE 2X: (1) Tablespoon

HE 3X: (1) Teaspoon

Perform a TUB CLEAN CYCLE every (4) months.

Use: "Tide Washing Machine Cleaner"






Recent blog entries on this topic

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Vibration Reduction Technology (VRT) and clicking noises in Samsung front load washers

By Samurai Appliance Repair Man in Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog, on 09 May 2012 - 05:44 PM


Samsung front load washers with the Vibration Reduction Technology (VRT) feature have...

Two balance rings---one mounted at the front of the stainless steel inner tub and another at the rear.

Inside each balance ring are several...

Read Full Entry →

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